BK

Most people will be using the Koyo bearing RCT40SA3 from somewhere like CBC here in Australia. There is a factory Nissan replacement of 30502-69F1A, but it's 100% a Koyo bearing anyway.

It's not the travel distance per se, it's the pivot point angle of the release fork as it is not correct to try and change the travel with the pivot height. Factory fork is around 4mm thick and the cast around 15mm so of course you need to reduce the pivot height. The angle of the release bearing face vs the slave cylinder push rod needs to be brought back into the factory plane. If you use a longer than required pivot ball the release bearing fingers on the fork are not flat on the bearing carrier, which causes other sorts of dramas like side load on the release pivot and chewing out the bearing carrier fork release face. As mentioned these are good when running high clamp load pressure plates with a substantial increase over the factory 600 -700kg clamp, but will offer little to no benefit if not. I would consider high clamp to be at or in excess of double the factory clamp load, so think NPC 1650kg singles or the Jim Berry full monty which can be 1800 - 2500kg ! Big capacity singles are always the worst offenders as their clamp load is increased far beyond what a multiplate clutch requires. I run multiplate ATS twin/triples with 1350kg clamp so not stupid high, but still heavier than most Jap clutches like Nismo or OS giken as their clamp loads are generally only in the 1000 - 1100kg region.

No, it's a very good idea. I run one in the blue R32, I sourced mine from Kudos Motorsports a few years ago. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/heavy-duty-clutch-release-fork-suit-nissan-300zx-skyline-081989-021993-gts25-p-2123.html In a nutshell it is a factory Nissan 350Z CD009 cast alloy push release fork and boot with a shorter custom height Chromoly pivot ball specific to suit the RB box. The cast alloy release fork is dimensionally very similar to an R33 GTR pull release fork which are heaps more rigid than a stock push. The pivot ball being shorter also decreases the likelihood of snapping and seem far beefier than a stock or Nismo unit. I've never seen a standard release fork break, but what I have noticed is they a soft as shit and flex a lot. They tend to bend out of spec very easily and wear quite a lot on the release bearing carrier finger area, which causes travel inconsistencies and decreases how much clutch release travel movement you get. If you compared a brand new stock push release fork to a well used one, which I have, you'll notice how flogged out they get after lots of use with heavy pressure plate clutches.

Even the genuine one is an NSK bearing - it's not like Nissan make their own bearings.

Cool, so you've gone to / sticking with a 30 spline instead of 31 like later GTRs ?

Nismo 740cc injectors seem to indicate the side feed ones, which would point towards an RB25. Next to the 60m food ?

I probably have a spare. You can have it.

Blocked cat it'll still make boost, just very very lazily and probably not peak but it'll still go positive pressure. No boost Broken turbo with no turbine wheel or massive split in intercooler piping. Drop your exhaust in front of cat and check it out.

This assumes all tyres are measured equal, which they are definitely not. In real world an AD08R in 265 is wider than their own Advan v105 in 275 for example. RS4 265 is about the same as an AD08R 255, so this fact alone really complicates things. It's taken me about 15+ years to get my head around this from trial and error, which always makes me cautious on using a tyre I'd never tried before.

Nice one 👍

Not reading your own thread are you - me getting injectors done here in September Alice mechanical solutions across from my work does them. Although if you're going to send them away I do recommend just send to Adelaide as it'll be quicker and cheaper to be honest. I used to use Petroject down there a lot but there are a few places to get them done. Just pull them out and send them away to get confirmation whether they are OK or not.

Even on the 9.5" and 10" wheels like I have on the 32 GTRs the above is true. 275 or 285 does not fit on car or corner as well as 255 or 265 with these widths.

NT sucks doesnt it, but even in Alice we have a place that does injector cleaning. I usually don't bother though and send to Adelaide as there are heaps of decent places.

I'm pretty much in agreement here. With a floor jack it's the front crossmember marked with an X, or the rear crossmember near the diff, but not the actual diff housing. I mean the housing is strong enough, you just dont need to. Then jack stands on crossmember mounting points - I stay away from any sill or body area.

You can only hear the difference with the bonnet up or head in the engine bay, can't tell from the driver's seat of the car. In engine bay though they are definitely noticeable as being whirry.

Maybe Gates, but I am judging that purely based off of their stiffness. Maybe I am talking out of my arse too because Nismo and the like would not use kevlar for no reason, as it has a higher tensile strength than steel. I think I'll be stuck in the Nismo or Power enterprise belt camp.

I had Gates racing in both 32s but as everyone knows they are a pretty noisy belt. Still running gates in the white 32 but changed to a Nismo in the blue 32, sounds like oem in comparison. In my 33 I'm using a Power enterprise belt which also sounds like oem. The issue with gates belts seems to be the nylon glass chord construction making them very stiff, whereas the Nismo, Power enterprise, HKS etc. have a high kevlar count in their construction making them very flexible and therefore sound less whirry.

I still would much prefer the proper Ross crank trigger setup I have on the blue 32 with DC powered hall effect sensors though - can't beat measuring the crank position from the actual crankshaft. I sort of winged it with the trigger arming voltages, something you don't have to worry about with the hall effect sensors. Might have to have a look back at your voltage table for comparison, but I gotta say so far so good. The timing light is not jittery like a cas and is rock solid, so without going proper crank trigger these definitely seem like the next best thing especially for the price.

Got my NZ wiring cam trigger today and got it working on the white 32. FYI what I posted above is correct to work on the Elite. Pin the reluctor to the 2 outside pins using signal ground and crank trigger +, no ecu repining required.

Yeah but a Nismo, Greddy or Tomei pump flow nothing close to the volume of a Nitto. A Tomei you'll get away with a Trust 6 - 6.5L sump - you won't with a Nitto,it may as well be a standard sump. It just isn't big enough and they baffles are crap. I put at least 3 of my engine failures down to those Trust piece of shit extension things. Only the 8+ litre Hi octane or Lewis engines design seems acceptable for Nitto flow rates.

Also Nitto pump = mandatory 8+ litre sump

This is the fitment of the crank to the pump. You are talking about just the pump gears in the pump housing yeah ?

Rear diff rear vertical mounts are the shittiest job ever if you dont remove the whole subframe. Rear diff front horizontal mounts are better and can be done on car.

Yep, stupid things snap right at the back of the speedo where it changes to plastic. I'm surprised no one has made a fully metallic replacement cable by now.

Jesus, how are you breaking them ? I converted my blue 32 from 30 to 31 spline with brand new stub axles when the Quaife rear went in - haven't broken a set yet. I guess the Speetek stuff is the only option I can see apart from the DSS, but it's bloody expensive for what it is. $1500 USD for rear axle shafts only and $1800 USD for rear 31 spline stub axles is a bit fcking ridiculous when for the same-ish price the DSS is upgraded from stub axle to hub cv and spline with bigger upgraded cv's at $3160 USD. If / when I break the rear the Drive shaft shop will probably be my pick.