BK

Got a trust 6 speed dog in my R32 (worth around $14000). Awesome gearbox when racing, but after experiencing that for the last six months on the street, the last thing you want in a car that's driven on the street more than track is a dog box. Only go dog if you will well and truly smash a synchro setup.

Don't know what turbo the R32 has exactly, but it's a garrett plain bearing with hks external gate. It's got a 1.00 a/r on the turbine. Been told it looks like either a TA45S or T51S but no full boost until at least 5500rpm. Going for fuel system and retune soon to 2 bar to try and get more boost response. That right with the gearset. Stock 5th, Straight cut gears on 1st - 4th, Ratios - 1st with 2.695, 2nd - 4th with PAR ratios How much is this again, $6000 ? And I'll need all the nissan stuff back that is pulled out of the box as I'll rebuild my stock R32 box with it - (need 3rd and countershaft).

I'll give these gear sets a go as my R33 GTR needs a better box. I'm in Alice Springs but I'll be able to pull the box out and send it away. I'm looking at the Straight cut gear set with the stock 5th. This price includes full series 3 upgrade right ?, as mine is a series 1 and will need the better sychros. Maybe even go the OS giken tall 1st ratio with the PAR gears. I'm in for sure so let me know more about the specifics. Cheers

I'll post the R32 dyno sheet soon so everyone can have a look at the curve. I think it does make the power too late in the rev range after having a comparison against my R33.

The R32 was last dynoed in dec 07 at Tilbrook auto and dyno in Adelaide with M. Donnon tuning the apexi. I don't know how accurate their dyno was at the time, because my R33 v-spec was dynoed there but with a different tuner, made 330kw @ wheels on 1.3 bar before I changed my ignition system. I haven't taken the R33 to the track for a while but feels like even it should be capable of a good 11.5 @ 120mph + now. I'll run the R33 next time and see if I can do better. Getting back to the R32, with the 6 speed gearbox I am holding onto 4th over the line which is a ratio of 1.178. 5th is 0.920 and 6th is 0.777. I beleive the stock nissan 3rd is 1.302 and 4th is 1.000. Should I be trying to change to 5th ? I have redlined before the line a couple of times, but sometimes I haven't also. Also, the transfer case is actually brand new one that went in with the new box and yes all four wheels are lighting up. So I am definently getting front torque.

Hi. I'm Ben from Alice Springs and I own two GTR's. An R32 and an R33. The R33 has 330kw @ wheels and my R32 has 550kw @ wheels according to the dyno sheets. My questions are mainly aimed at the R32 GTR that I've been drag racing at the new ASID 1/4 here in the NT for the past six months. Okay, the main thing I want to know is why my times suck so much if I apparently have so much power ? R32 has the following main modifications : -Fully rebuilt engine with aries pistons, crower rods, N1 rings, N1 oil + water pumps, tomei cams, power fc pro, 800cc injectors, sard fuel pump, trust fuel rail + regulator, hks evc 3, splitfire coilpacks, tein coilovers (not sure what type but the are low and hard) -Garrett turbo with 1.00 a/r ex housing (looks like could be TA45S), hks external wastegate, trust intercooler, 4 inch exhaust, -Trust 6 speed dog box, os giken triple plate clutch, look the list goes on and on .... The car is running around 1.5 - 1.6 bar of boost with M/T ET Street R16-255/50 tyres at around 16 - 20 psi. My 60 foot best is 1.701, 1/4 best of 11.02 and MPH best of 129.8 with doing a rwd burnout. WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON ? WHAT AM I DOING WRONG ? Car revs to 8500 as injectors are at 100% at 8800. Using power fc pro lauch control at around 7600 as 8000 + fries the tyres. I'm starting to think something is really wrong here ? Please any advice from experienced 10 sec or lower GTR racers would be awesome as there is not anyone really seriously modifying GTR's (or any import for that matter) to get real no bullshit info from in the NT. I need info from people that have actually done this - What do I have to do to get to at least low 10's/high 9's consistently ? I'm out of ideas as I know I could go for more power but surely that MPH is good for mid 10's at least. Thanks for any help. BK

Hey guys Ben here. Sorry man but a new n1 motor at just jap is $12999 without turbos, just a long motor (sump to head). Dude a descent Rb26 is going to cost at least $6000. That $2500 odd is for an N1 bare block only, as the going rate was around $3000- $3500 a couple of years ago. Man if an N1 GTR engine was $2000 I'd have one in the white car right now. Don't know where you'll get a rb26 for $2000 unless it's totally rooted. Look, descent stuff cost money and there is no way around it. Most of this ebay and internet shit is literally that - shit. GTR's (and their motors) are like porsche's ect. - i doesn't matter whether you can afford to buy one, it's whether you can afford to OWN one and repair it when things go wrong. RB25's aren't much cheaper when modifed either.

Hi All R33 gtr are pull type clutch from factory, so unless you're going to an OS giken clutch which need a pull-push converter yours will stay a pull clutch. That said I've recently put an r33 gtr box with Trust 6 speed dogbox into my r32 gtr with push clutch also, so you can change the clutch setup between R32 and R33 boxes also. The series 3 boxes have upgraded sychros which should last a lot longer before failing. I'm upgrading to a series 3 r33 gtr box in my r33 gtr right now but I'm going straight to a whole new gearbox, rather than repairing my 95 one. It is about the same to buy a new one with the better synchros ect already in place, and it's all new down to the case ! Hope your getting a good deal to rebuild as new box is $3000, still in the Nissan crate.

Just wondering how to tell the OS Giken gearset from the stock nissan gearset ? I've got an R32 GTR with 550kw @ wheels and destroyed 3rd gear dragging. The car was supposed to have a OS gearset which I know are rated to 800 ps. I've got the box apart now and want to repair it but don't know if it is in fact an OS gearset. I know the ratios are different and if anyone knows the teeth count or something it would be very helpful to try and identify the type of gearset. As for the car I fixed it with an OS Giken R3C triple plate clutch and a Trust 6 speed straight gear dog box with a new transfer case so I hope the car should be reliable for some more dragging now. Still want to get old box going as a rebuilt OS giken box would be good as a backup with my old transfer case as a bolt in, ready to go spare.

Thanks for the 6 speed as it is super awesome !

I hope not, because the blue r32 was already engineered in NSW before I got it. Couldn't be a yearly thing surely ? (my old man has an mvr inspector ticket so i'll ask him) Once it's done , it's done. Hey Ozzy my gearbox is in and despite the confusion I do have reverse. Guys were afaid of breaking it! Anyway box is absolutely awesome. Sounds like a V8 supercar box - very noisy with hard shifts shifting the best. Can't shift it slow at all. Hopefully both GTR's will be at the show.

The car made this power on dyno run with 98 ultimate @ 1.4 bar boost and 8300rpm. car can spin to 9500 and 2 + bar if need be, but like I said gotta learn to drive what I have first !

Yes, it's a monster ! Handles well with the Tein coilovers but fuel system is maxed out. Will make over 600kw @ wheels once upgraded from 800cc to 1000cc items. Gotta learn to drag it yet before that - it's whole different world to anything else I've been in at this power level. It's just crazy when upped, but it's still very streetable. Changed my opinion on big single turbo gtr's for sure. No I said the 1000hp car broke the 800hp rated os giken 5 speed cross mission box. Also yeah you're right. That's 750 AT THE WHEELS - not engine. GTR's lose a minimum of 25% from the engine to the wheels mate, with most figures closer to 30% or more. Wrx's lose at least 30% to the wheels. A stock 160 -170 kw WRX at engine will barely pull 95 - 100kw @ wheels. My point being the difference between brake power (at the engine) and chassis dyno power (at the wheels). So you see now that 750 hp at the wheels is actually at least 1000hp at the engine (1000 engine hp minus 25% = 750 wheel hp). Same with commodores. The 300 kw VY GTS pulled around 205 kw @ wheels from factory. All cars have SOME form of driveline loss. A quoted 240kw XR6 turbo does not put 240 kw to the wheels if that's what you're thinking.

Yes well, you get that ! My new box left Vic. today - brand new trust close ratio 6 speed, straight cut dog engagement box. Can-t wait for next meeting to hand some V8's their arses !

Hey guys As everyone would already know by now my t51 1000hp GTR totally destroyed the os giken 800hp gearbox on it's very first run !

You gotta admit there's some wankers driving around in town that give all of our cars a really bad image. That's what the drags and events like the powercruise are for. Anyway just saw the R35 GTR for real. All I can say is - WOW ! Looks more expensive than a F430 side by side - NO JOKE ! Only 10 dealers in Oz will be allowed to sell car ( 1 in SA) and has had price confirmed at $150,000 with no deposits allowed. You know you want one Oscar !

Dude, there's at least 20 + skylines in Alice alone including 4 gtr's (2 of them mine)

Hey MFP, can anyone say T51R ? - it looks like a go

Has anyone read the specs from the Official Nissan Global site ? Anyway the VR38 is indicated as a 'net' power figure (in car) of 480 hp or 353 kw. The footnote indicates that this is approx. 15% lower than the 'Gross' power (engine only). If this is correct the bhp is actually closer to 560 hp for engine only. Just thought I'd point this out as nobody seems to have mentioned this on any of the forums. Cheers The URL is http://press.nissan-global.com/PRESSKIT/NI...LISH/index.html to check this out yourself in the specs part

Thanks for posting back. Mine have the protruding bolt and locking nut on the arms. On drivers side arm the protruding bolt and locking nut is on the left (towards the rear of car) and the passenger side arm has the protruding bolt on the right (towards the rear of car also). Does this sound correct ? Has someone put them in wrong ? Also being in Alice springs I'm very limited to where I can go to get wheel alignments done, there's like 3 places. My setup does look exactly like the picture on the drivers side though. Really annoys me if the are adjustable and no one has picked up on it after 7 wheel alignments.

Hi Sydneykid I've been trying to correct my camber on the front of my r33 gtr but without luck. I have -1 deg on left and -2 deg on right and the suspension is stock v-spec. I apparently have no camber adjustment on the front of my car (according to Tyrepower) but then I saw this picture of the yellow whiteline bushes installed on the front of an r34 for camber adjustment. My car looks like it's got the exact same yellow bushes on the front. Does this sound like my camber is adjustable ? If so how are they adjusted and how could I find out if they are infact a whiteline front camber kit ? I am concerned as I run 275/35 Advan V103 tyres which they slug me at $680 per corner and don't want to wear them out. Any help would be great as you seem to know your stuff and I know not a lot about suspension. Cheers

Slightly ambitious ? I wasn't expecting anything. I was glad to see it break 300 kw. But they seem to out-perform 2530 in response and top end and be closer to the 2540 mark in outright power for the same boost(GT-SS stop at 1.6 bar,2540's at 2 bar). They are rated identical output to 2530's and were only releaed last year being better in design. Don't worry, a lot of people there thought it had 2530's or 2540's on the dyno tuning. Doesn't matter I'm happy with the output now. Power will be capped at that.

I was in the same boat but just bit the bullet and got z32 brand new. Not cheap but new. I even changing the airflow meters don't go rb20/25 meters. Sure they're 80mm but bugger all difference in electrical callibration. Same with Nismo 65's(They are supposed to be rated at 700ps a pair-crap).At 330kw at wheels my GTR maxes air voltage around 3.5v. Plently more left and sill idles good. Gotta chop/replace the plugs though and get 80mm z32 specific gtr filter kit (eg Apexi super suction) Prices each I've checked: RB20/25-$200 s/h Z32-$250-$450 s/h or $600-$800 new nismo-$400 new My advice is to stick with stockers until you max them out on the PFC then get z32 units, unless you get the rb25 ones for a really good price(they plug straight in). Depends on how much kW you are stopping at. 350kW rb25 afm will be close to max.

Car finally tuned with Power FC + Pump/700cc's. Stock cams, Fidanza cam gears set at 4deg adv.inlet/2deg ret. exhaust and still 1.3bar(19psi) through fc boost control. 330kW at wheels from the .42 comp/.64 turbine GT-SS turbos. z32 meters also now used. Idles like factory.(made as high as 380kw with more boost and different cam gear settings but detonation on PFC near 55. Now at 35 at max.)