BK

No worries, you can just rotate it 180 but your gauge port will be unusable obviously pointing towards the block.

If it's an opr40, oil feed in and turbo out lines are backwards - it matters on these, it's not a fuel reg where the top 2 side ports are common inlets.

Stock = 160 lph N1 = 192 lph Reimax = 221 lph 250 lph Group A specs on Reimax site https://reimax.co.jp/gtr_grA_waterpump.html

That's why you should cut them off front and rear and tap a 1/16 or 1/8 npt thread into it so you can fit a proper barb or AN fittings.

6870 ?

Buy this - $80. These guys are in Melbourne and are pretty good to deal with. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=3332&rewrite=nissan-skyline-r33-s2-gtst-charcoal-canister-14950-21u00&controller=product

No smaller than 1.00 on 6466. Dont worry the 1.00 a/r is not too big, I'm running on both the 32s. Stock cams and 2.6 or the 2.8 and big cams are both great to drive as it's just such a flexible turbo.

Not sure on the atmo, but would work the same way I would think as the canister diaphragm works of a pressure differential. Throttle open means both pre and post throttle lines have no pressure difference - keeps canistet closed. When the throttle is closed the post throttle line creates a pressure differential in the canister diaphragm because of the vacuum one side and atmosphere pressure the other side - this is what opens the canister. The only way I could see the atmo vs turbo canisters being different is if the canister diaphragm is not able to handle positive pressure, meaning turbo version would have to have an added check valve in it to stop boost. This is speculation as I weren't aware they were different at all.

On a GTR ?

Technically 4. 3 at top, one on bottom. A fresh air vent on bottom is just a hose that can connect to nothing as an atmosphere breather. Top has 3 ports - one to fuel tank vent, one post throttle (boost and vacuum) and one pre throttle (no vacuum, boost only). On RB26 this is at the AAC chamber top front nipple and throttle body cylinder 1 and 2 assembly nipple near stock fuel reg location. These need to be correctly connected at the canister as there is a diaphragm inbuilt to control operation.

Absolutely do this. I run R33 charcoal canisters on the 32s as they are half the size of a 32 one. New they are $300 -$400, 2nd hand $50ish so just get one.

Yeah Supra R154 was good. I miss my MA70

Tremec TR6060 with Transmax Z shifts like butter. Never driven one, but the CD009 is harsh ?

For sure - being able to clutchless upshift on an H pattern dog definitely saves a couple of tenths !

Yeah funny that. I used to drag a Trust / Quaife 6 speed H pattern dog box with single overdrive 6th. At 10.5 and 130mph I was crossing the line in 5th.

But a DCT box does have synchros

Boo !

Hey Brett, I scrambled to Supershit to see what they had and got a 3" to 2.5" elbow to fix it. Was a prick to get on, requiring heating and shit as the 6466 is a 2.5" compressor outlet, but my existing Jap intercooler piping is 80mm so 3 1/8". 4mm doesn't sound like a lot but took about an hour and a half to fit stretching 76mm onto 80mm. This is what let go top of 3rd when I rolled through for an 11.51 at 130mph in 4th ! Funny story though, for shits and giggles I took the GTR out for a run with the split pipe in naturally aspirated RB26 mode. For those wondering, an N/A RB26 R32 GTR does 15.9 at 90mph 😆

You want good times you'll NEED ET streets. At 122mph with an auto you'll see low 11s. Just buy a set of rear rims purely for the strip and do it 👍

Mate, I know, I know ! I've always had a cast elbow welded onto the compressor housing, but when switching to the 6466 I decided not to and use a silicone elbow just in case the turbo shits itself, which means an off the shelf, no mods required replacement could be easily swapped in. Funny enough that's what happened to the white 32 with the 6266, and why a 4 day turn around swap to the 6466 happened. Don't worry, I still owe you a carton of Coopers sparkling when I'm in Sydney next month - you can give me shit about it then👍

Me too - I am clearly not cut of for drag racing am I... Was hoping to get some good runs as with at least 139mph and a good 60ft there is definitely a 9 in it, but to this point I still haven't been able to put it all together to beat the previous 2.6 HKS T51 time of 10.5 at 130mph. Now I mentioned a "problem" that happened at the last drags which I "fixed" for the Motorkhana. I'll just leave this here: This is the turbo compressor outlet elbow, I guess it didn't like 33psi boost 🤣 Yes I am a dickhead sometimes 🙃

R888R probably are better for the drags than the RS4 or AD08R. Whats you 60ft ? On the 18" RS4 I did a 60ft of 1.8 a couple of weeks ago and think there is possibly a 1.7 or 1.6 in them though. MT Et street is definitely a drag only tyre and feel like jelly on the street with any turns, but if you want grip for drags get a set.

I feel like we are not comparing apples with apples here when the R comp tyres keep coming up like A050 or AR-1 - they are track tyres and not really fit for purpose for a street longevity option. Also the tread wear ratings seem to be anything but consistent in reality, making it even harder to compare when discussing less tried and tested models. Remember AD08R and RS3 / RS4 used to be a 140tw tyre, until they were "rerated" to be 200 so they would comply with this international 200 class legal requirement in racing, so take tw with a grain of salt. The Yoko ADVAN V103 was 180tw and has about half the grip of an AD08R. That's my point in the ratings being not a good metric for comparison - they are not even close to what I would consider a true 200tw tyre despite having that sub 200 rating. A 200tw tyre should be a street tyre first that can get used on the track like the AD08R or RS4. Agreed, especially when Tyreright consistenty has 4 for 3 deals on RS4 and other Hankook quarterly.

Wow, just wow 🤦

AD08R and RS4 is what I run and found them both to be excellent, with I THINK the Yoko being slightly better. I really like both of them and is the only tyres I'll run on the Rs for street or comp duties unless R comp. I was quite surprised how well the RS4 coped with my 600kw+ 32 on the Motorkhana a couple of weeks ago, very impressive with a fair bit of bite. Both have extremely stiff sidewalls for good conering too unlike something like a soft sidewall R888R. Next step is obviously R comp, but good R comp like A050 is not even close to the same cost range for 200tw yoko ad08r / Hankook RS4 price. They're more like $2k+ a set for A050 in 17/18s, so only cheaper R comp than 200tw tyres the is AR-1. Of course fast wear - AR-1 is as mentioned an R comp 80tw tyre so not really a relevant comparison, but sounds like these CR-S are worth try for cheap 200tw rubber if it's anywhere in the ballpark of the Yokos AD08R though. Regarding 200tw, I'm actually wanting feedback on Yoko A052 as they seem to be as good as it gets before the R comp A050 so very interested in them, but can't go wrong with the AD08R or RS4 for non R comp tyres with any cornering requirements really.