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Gojira5767

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Everything posted by Gojira5767

  1. Gojira5767
    That makes sense. I will try it again tomorrow then. And I think I have the R34 FSM printed off somewhere. If I cant find it I will definitely use the link. Thanks! This is just such an odd problem, something has to be sending power to the compressor at all times. I may just replace the relay for kicks.
  2. Gojira5767
    Ok, so I ran the diagnostic and came back with code 25(Sunload sensor). Does this cause the A/C to come on automatically when its faulty even when HVAC is turned completely off? Mode doors are all operational, and Diag Mode 4 shows "41"? Im assuming thats a blower motor check, as it turns it on during this mode. And on mode 5, the temp sensors are reading 31 & 32. Which I calibrated both to 31 degrees. I guess I need to replace the sunload sensor regardless huh? Also, I haven't noticed the A/C fan kicking on, but then again the temp hasn't gotten that high. I have Power FC's on both cars, so I am constantly monitoring it. But your right, the gauge doesn't accurately reflect how hot its actually getting.
  3. Gojira5767
    I have actually watched the compressor engage with the climate controls off. ???
  4. Gojira5767
    Thanks! I'll give that a go and update later today.
  5. Gojira5767
    Very good question! She says that she notices that the compressor cycles on and off even when the climate control is turned off completely. She does notice that when she has recirc on and the Climate control off she doesnt feel cold air blowing through the floor vents. But if she has everything off and its on fresh air even on a hot day she still feels cold air on her feet. I have rode with her and experienced this as well. I just cant figure out why the compressor is getting power with the climate control turned off completely. Possibly a stuck/shorted relay?
  6. Gojira5767
    So my wife's R33 A/C has been acting kinda funny lately. Even with the climate control turned completely off, the A/C still stays on. It blows very cold and all of the mode/blend doors are working properly, but it just won't stay off. Any ideas?
  7. Gojira5767
    So i have one final bug to work out. On my hand controller i have THRM highlighted. I have read that it should be reading 3.6-3.7 volts. It currently reads .06v. How do i fix this? The trac light is on also. Any ideas. I found a thread on here but the link won't get me to it so I'm not sure how they fixed the problem.
  8. Gojira5767
    You are correct my friend! Thanks again for the tips. Now all I have left to do is get it on a dyno hopefully in two weeks!
  9. Gojira5767
    It is at a slightly higher rpm. I believe it to be due to a fuel issue because I don't know the correct injector lag time so I'm leaving that up to my tuner. My short little drive was my test to make sure there were no other issues that needed to be addressed before I get it tuned. It stayed on the rich side during that sound and i know that my plugs were a little fouled from earlier testing. New ones going in asap for safe measure.
  10. Gojira5767
    Hopefully this link will work.
  11. Gojira5767
    Update: After some ECU pin testing for backup power loss ( Thanks to PaulR33 for the idea) i found that I had none. Swapped the relay with a known working spare and no change. Went to fuse checking for the 1000th time, and I actually found one of the fuses for Engine Control in the engine bay was blown. This was a recent occurence, because I have been checking them periodically. After replacing that one, I continued to re-initialize the FC and re-load my map and settings. Things were looking better b/c the airflow write error didnt show up. I was in the process of cleaning the plugs and decide to check for spark for good measure and noticed no spark. I went back to the fuses for kicks and now the other Eng Cont. fuse was blown. I replaced that one and checked the other one, it was ok still. Spark came back at this point. Finally I was able to actually try and start the car with all of the settings saved in the FC and the car finally started! Now back to point A. Get the car tuned. THANKS TO ALL FOR YOUR RESPONSES AND INPUT! This is the best source for Skyline owners needs! And im not sure if anyone has found or linked this site, but I found some rather useful info on here: http://richr34.wordpress.com/
  12. Gojira5767
    Ok. I will give that a try. I told the guy that has been trying to tune my car and he noticed it as well when he tried to update the air fuel meter it wouldn't take it for him and gave him the same error.
  13. Gojira5767
    Honestly I did try that it didn't make any difference. I tried turning the car off then back on then rereading it then clicking air fuel meter and then changing it and it is still wouldn't write it. And just to clarify do I need to click the update button or write all?
  14. Gojira5767
    I went into Datalogit and changed the MAF but it said "Airflow/PIM write error". Do I need to input any values next to the voltages? I will give it a shot though. Thanks for all your help btw.
  15. Gojira5767
    Definitely getting adequate fuel. There is a gauge mounted on the rail and The pressure never drops below starting psi and the plugs are very wet and black from the 1.5 second start and stalls. I finally got a compatible serial to usb adapter (Dynex brand at Best Buy here in the states) and was finally able to initialize the FC but I don't know how/what to input MAF and injector settings. Z32 MAF and 1000cc injectors. Im fine wtih mechanical fixes but not so savvy with tuning. Any info on this?
  16. Gojira5767
    Is everyone else just as stumped as me on this one? I'm going to try and re-initialize the FC tonight as long as I can get the serial-to-usb to connect with datalogit. Any tips on setting up comm ports for it to connect? I have installed the needed usb driver as well, but the computer still won't link with the FC. And the led is lit on the box too. All of this seems to be one big snowball effect.
  17. Gojira5767
    BUMP, going crazy. I went as far as trying new spark plugs last night. still nothing. Computer problem?
  18. Gojira5767
    Just to give a little run down of events that lead up to my current situation: I installed dual catch cans properly based on the Mines setup as well as completing the IACV hose setup and replaced O2 sensor, after which the car seemed to idle better initially, as well as increased gas milage, but noticed it needed to be tuned because of the IAC not being hooked up before (it was tuned for not having the IAC hooked up). I drove the car and noticed I had extended start times and occassionaly no start problems for 10 minutes at a time, until the day I was going to have it tuned. I drove the car to work, put new plugs in it and then got gas on lunch. Came back to work and parked it, waiting for my tuner guy to arrive. Once he did I went to start it and it would turn over but not start. After which, down the road, I discovered the crank sprocket issue. After repairing said problem the car now starts and stalls almost immediately. I have made sure there is constant fuel pressure, spark, good compression as stated above, a full tank of gas, all fuses are okay, no vaccum leaks, and the boost control kit is turned off. I also had the tuner, the same day it messed up, save my tune and initalize it three seperate times. Of course it is something simple I am overlooking. Ignition timing and injector duty, as well as AFM readings, climb upon inital startup until it stalls. Throttle input makes it stall quicker. I have adjusted the idle air control valve screw both directinos and experience no change. (Gun to head) Anyone care to save a life? LOL
  19. Gojira5767
    Also swapped CAS from wifes R33 that has a S2 in it and no change. I do feel that the injector pulse im getting is rather weak though.
  20. Gojira5767
    Ok, back from the dead. I fixed the keyway problem. New keyways, new crank sprocket, fixed worn spot and checked compression. 125-135 psi across the board. Have fuel, spark and compression on all cylinders. Timing is dead up. The car will crank, start and run for about 2 seconds and then shut off. Any ideas? Commander shows timing advance, injector duty climbs and RPMs reach approx 2,000 and MAF is functioning correctly (i tried a spare and unplugged it for kicks, no change) then it stalls. Boost control kit is turned off also.
  21. Gojira5767
    Hoping so. Im going to by a new crank gear and two keyways to be safe and explore some repair options. I like fab and custom work az well as re-engineering things that are broken to work again. We will see..... updates as progress ensues.
  22. Gojira5767
    I don't think I have any issues with valve or head damage. I think the damage to the keyway only allowed valves to open enough to not be able to see any vacuum on my boost gauge under cranking. I didn't have any engine noise prior to it not starting.
  23. Gojira5767
    Seeing as I've had it for about a month and a half now and when I picked it up and drove it back from a couple of states away it had excellent power and pickup throughout the rev band. No issues were apparent. It was only until recently that it seemed a little off. But I thought that was due to me rerouting the pcv system to a factory style setup and connecting the idle air control valve seeing as how the previous owner had not plumbed the piping at all and it was a huge vacuum leak from external air past the mass air flow. However the previous owner had had the car tuned around that issue so it was running super rich to account for the vacuum leak. The worst part about it all is that I was going to have the car tuned the same day that it decided to not start due to my original ignition timing issue
  24. Gojira5767
    It never actually spun freely. It only allowed it to move about 3-5 teeth . Should be ok if i can get the keyway repaired. I hope at least.
  25. Gojira5767
    Well.......I found the problem. I went to pull off the crank pulley and noticed that when i went to pull it off i could turn the pulley by hand and noticed that the crank gear wasnt turning with the pulley. After finally getting the pulley off, its key was intact. However, the crank gear key was almost completely sheared off except for about an 1/8 inch was left, leaving a nice groove in that keyway. If i can figure out how to post pics with my phone i will put them on here.
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