stewart1

Hi...just dis a walk around of my R33 now it is 26+ years old and done 200 000km+ Though you might be interested in seeing what a close to stock car looks like YouTube

Same problem https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXyB7mQN3Vj_UPjBE61Nuwg

Are you sure it's not the reverse beeper mine was disconnected it has a white plug left knee position...it also beeps if you open the door with keys in from memory...

It's usually shocks mine has blown out a few...also sometimes a sharp stone with road tar on it will will get jammed between the body and the suspension (had this happen a couple of times in the summer).

Yeah check that small bottom pulley that goes to the air conditioning mine the bearing was wobbled out too making a weird noise. In the r33 you just take off the plastic pan cover underneath and unbolt the pulley it just slides off with a few washers and then release the tensioner all the way back so you can get the belt on after. I couldn't get the bearing to budge so I went to the local wreckers and got the pulley with a good bearing for $10...funny thing they had to take a few off motors before they got a good one all the other the bearings were gone too so maybe a lot more common than you think. My dad did finally get the bearing out but it took a hell of a lot of pressure.

I just pulled mine out after it started flicking all over the place then sulking down at 6 o'clock for days...I resoldered the chip on the back of the tacho too but honestly it looked ok and if I hadn't had a degree in electronics I would have stuffed it for all time...the pins and solder pads are very small even with a desolder machine and magnifier I struggled. I reckon looking at it it was more likely to be the screws that tighten on to the flexible plastic printed circuit board I gave them all a light tighten and It worked perfect when I put it back in and has stayed good for a week now. Worst part apart from the chip was getting the plugs out to remove the cluster I made myself a tool to grab both sides and pull they are almost impossible by hand.

Ok so I've replaced 3 units on my R33....one the nylon toothed cable snapped so not fixable and one the inside of the motor would spin for a short time then stop the inside of the motor and brushes were covered in crap (worked after cleanup) Just unbolt the 2 bolts feel around the back and pull the power plug (it also has a small plastic clip holding the cable tight pull that from the metal bracket attached to the unit) and pull the antenna to radio plug it'is at 45 degrees and just pulls straight out. Spin off the chrome ring at the top on the antenna or just pop it off with a screwdriver the threads are usually stuffed. With a lot of wiggling you should get it out by pulling it antenna first out towards the taillight. There is a water drain tube at the bottom of the unit make sure it goes out the hole in the bottom of the well or you will rust out your car.

There's way more to an AFM than than what you can see...this is my old R33 one that was showing a Code12 Faulty AFM on the ECU

Yep it's a 1982 so 30 years old so needs some work,I notice the injector spacers are already broken (havn't touched them yet) and there's petrol bubbling around the seals. I was going to but some RB20 injectors in which are 14.5 ohm(high impedance)and by-pass the resistor pack but seeing there isn't one I guess it's back to finding some low impedance ones. Yes that's the boost sensor in pic,was showing wild fluctuating boost on the gauge so I broke it open and cleaned it,works fine now. Just replaced the water pump recently as the shaft had wobbled out of it bush and the fan was hitting the cowl...it deserves to be bought back to top condition after towing a horse jogging frame every day for the last 7 years. Oh and it can still keep pace with my R33 RB25 turbo easy,don't know how but it does!

Thanks!...I've read that Nissan used cheaper ECU's that needed resistor packs because they couldn't handle the low impedance injector amps. My R30 definitely doesn't have a pack so if you are right they must have used an expensive ECU in only the R30 turbo model...interesting!

I don't seem to have one Troy!...This is a mystery can anyone explain?

Am switching over the old leaking injectors in my 1982 HR30 with the L20 turbo motor but can't seem to find the resistor pack. There must be one as it's running low impedance injectors(2.8 ohms). Anyone know where to look please?

Am switching over the old leaking injectors in my 1982 HR30 with the L20 turbo motor but can't seem to find the resistor pack. There must be one as it's running low impedance injectors(2.8 ohms). Anyone know where to look please?

Am switching over the old leaking injectors in my 1982 HR30 with the L20 turbo motor but can't seem to find the resistor pack. There must be one as it's running low impedance injectors(2.8 ohms). Anyone know where to look please?

I also have a Series 2 Motor!

What's this with red or silver badges on the front?...my 95 turbo coupe has a gold badge on black mesh below the bonnet.

My R33 turbo always sits just under 4 on the factory gauge when cruising (100km/hr)

Inside of my filter...worth doing I reckon!

Take the bracket holding the filter off... Remove the top hose from the filter first and put the rubber stopper that comes plugged into the top of the new filter onto the old one (stops petrol spilling out)... Easy to remove the bottom hose by twisting the old filter... Both hoses do need a little pry with a flat screwdriver just to break the seal first... Easy no skin lost! (for a change!)