Dayna

I have 1 x BNR32 computer and a 1 x BNR33 computer both to suit rb26dett. I now have a Power FC and have no longer need for these. I'm from NZ but Freight is pretty cheap across the ditch to you. Small light package. OFFERS ON EACH! Cheers Dayna

I know what the tacho output wire is, and have also tested EVERY other connection on the computer. I am a professionall installer of wiring in vehicles. I do not know the full system diagram of the computer. would anyone have it? D

ok, I've got a RB26 transplanted in my cefiro, its been in there for a while now. I run aftermarket Autometer guages, tacho, speedo, etc etc The Tacho output off the computer is not working and has been tried on 4 different computers, including the Power FC which i am now running. I have been using one of the Crank angle sensor wires in the mean time, but i have problems with the rev counter dropping after it reaches 6500rpm back down to 5500rpm then goes back up. It is rather anoying and finally i've had enough. Now I have tested the tacho wire in EVERY single wire connection of the computer. Just to make sure i've exhausted posibilities, thats how i found the crank angle wire to kind of work. The engine runs perfectly fine, so every wire that is needed for motor to run fine is connected. Any other wire off the computer is not connected. ] My question is: Is there another wire that makes the tacho output wire work. I have taken my tacho into another store that calibrates and alters tachos/speedos etc, and they reckon the tacho works perfectly and should read the 5 volt signal that the computer gives. I believe a wiring connection is at fault and the computer is not outputting a signal. Would anyone know of anything that may help my cause!! Cheers Dayna

Most factory nissan aerial plugs are different than the standard common plug found on aftermarket headunits... If i'm correct you should find a lead, possibly 2 shielded wires going into a dual pin plug. One shielded cable goes to winscreen aerial, the other goes to your electric aerial. Your cleanest option is to get a nissan to standard aerial adapter lead. I sell em for $20NZ so around that price or less should be good. But if your installing a band expander, i recommend buying a band expander with the adapter leads already built into it, otherwise you will need 2 x adapters, one into your band expander, and another one out to your st head unit. D

your mate hooked up power from the cig lighter?? not that it will cause a problem but hey, the standard stereo loom has all that you require without going elsewhere! D

Ok, i've only painted one car in my life, but i used it as a stepping stone on my way to become self effecient car modifier! I am in no way professional, I have listened to many different painters/ people about how to paint a car, tried it the way i thought best and learnt about my methods. Please use this information at your own risk. And be fussy! i'll stress the point that the preperation work is the most important thing in painting a car. Spraying the paint would be the easiest. No matter how god like you are at spraying if the prep work isn't done it ain't gonna look good. Example of what I am doing with my car to paint it. I am painting it in a 2K Black paint. It does not need a clear coat and comes out very glossy off the gun. Booth is a must, or a very well setup room. I like working with 180 grit to sand down paint, if you have nasty bog patches you could go 120 grit, but the finer the grit the less work to get rid of scratches. Ideally you would strip the car of its mouldings and extra bits, or you can mask them up, you can use a DA sander which takes the strain out of the hand work, but a good board and some elbo work will be a good idea. Sand the car down, and look for indents or bits which may need filler to straighten up. Go over the whole car. This will take a good day. Mask up everything (don't rush the masking it is very important) Primer the areas that may need filling, I use a good 2k Primer that is also good for filling small areas. Then primer the whole car. This can be done outside or in the shed, i don't think its that important cause your be sanding it all down again. Guide coat the primer with a black spray can when the primer is dry. (you are trying to spray a light dust of black over the primer) The next day or so, sand down the whole car again, now when your using your Straight board, you will see that any low spot will show up as the black guide coat will not be sanded. This is how you find your low spots/ ripples etc. I personally will try to sand the area down until i start going through the main paint again then stop. If the low spot is deep enough, use a good filler (bog). sand down, primer, repeat until its perfectly straight how it should be. 180 or finer 200 240 can be used during this process. When you have your car looking straight, Primer the whole thing again Now using 400 grit or finer sand the whole car down, make a good job, don't try to go through the primer, just trying to sand it for painting. Make sure you go around by hand with 400 around all the paint that goes up to the mouldings or areas that will be masked, fussy is best! this will make sure that your paint will stick all the way to the masking edge! Blow away all the dust, every single bit. Mask everything that needs masking, spending plenty of time putting that tape very accurately close to the edges. Masking is VERY important, bad edges don't look good!, get good quality masking tape, thick and thin for corners. Try using the brown paper stuff you can buy. or newspaper, but newspaper only windows lights etc., do not newspaper over any panel work that needs to painted. Your car is ready for painting! Wipe down the paint pre painting with a cleaner recommended by your paint supplier and a clean lint free cloth, you can also use a tack rag to make sure there is no hairs, dust bits on your paint. When painting, For the 2k paint i use, the process is, firstly spray a dry coat, this is holding the gun furtheraway than normal causing the paint to semi dry through the air and go over the car lightly. This will help the incoming next paint coat to stick better. The next 2 coats are WET coats, This means optimum spraying distance and applying a good 'wet coat' to the body work, With the paint i use its good to be on the verge of causing runs. The paint i use also has very good flow, which means it will flow into the other coats very well and spread even if the coat is heavy. Runs are hard to achieve. Dry coating is not a good idea with 2k as you are trying to achieve the nice gloss coat finish, hope this helps some? tips: talk to lots of painters, suppliers, if unsure ask questions. ask questions, and more questions. I will be have my paint job finished over the next week or so. Will show you how it turned out. Oh, and don't touch the car with anything but water for a good month. The paint takes a while to completely dry! then polish it with you favourite polish. hmmm plum crazy glaze polish!@ yum! Dayna

taking up boot space wouldn't worry me, i don't use the boot. Its pretty much a drift car, thats road legal. Well, lets look at some costings that i've come across so far. To Fix the r32 crank collar issue will cost me $550 for a good oil cooler kit will cost me $550 How much for a baffled sump setup? $400?, best to make my own? or buy an off the shelf aftermarket one? I don't want to extend the sump lower than it is for ground clearance reasons. uprated standard placement fit oil pump $1750!! !NEW TOTAL standard internal option setup = $3250 lets compare to a dry sump setup. ? stage pump complete setup $1500 s/h sourced from USA oil cooler $250 Adapters (oil filter, remote adapter) $200 Oil Lines $200 obviously would cost a bit more to run lines to the rear of vehicle if i did do this. sump mods $200 (guessing) DRY SUMP TOTAL = $2150 + $500 over budget It seems to me cheaper to sort out a dry sump system, and superior in some ways, i know it seems an over kill, but cost wise, why not? are you saying i can get away with the standard r32 oil pump? that would save $$$ but still be very close priced to the dry sump setup, and being that the dry sump setup would have better oil pressure etc.. sure money is always an issue and i would like to save hassle and money. but would also like to be cost effect that i am getting the best bang for my buck. and if the dry sump cost a few hundred more, i thought it would make sense to go this way. A good mechanic friend of mine pointed me towards the dry sump option, as he landed in NZ a complete setup for his V8 drag car for $1200, pump, tank, lines, earl fittings from USA (second hand) thats the info in front of me at the moment..... Dayna

Ok, I have a R32 RB26DETT in my Cefiro, I use this on the street but mainly on the track in Drift Competitions. I want this engine to be reliable, so have planned to spend a little bit of money to do the following mods, whats your thoughts, and anything else I should think of. The engines ideal state will be around 450RWHP which is shit loads really, but hey why not. this is in the future with suitable turbos, computer, etc. BUT FOR NOW: I am going to pull engine down. Get the Rods balanced, shot peened and new ARP rod bolts fitted. Remove standard Oil Pump? (not sure if this is necessary for dry sump setup) Install external 3-4(unsure of what is needed) stage oil pump, oil canister, remote filter, large oil cooler, Modify standard sump for scavenging returns Oil feed restrictor in block to prevent flooding of cam areas. Change aloy plugs in crankshaft with cap screws (i heard they can fall out with high pressure oil pump) Use standard gasket set, or aftermarket gasket set(tomei?) any point going tomei? Is there anything important that i should know in regards to dry sumping the engine, anyone that has done this, i would be interested to know the plumbing side of it, i know how the dry sump works but actual real life plumbing of the rb26 would be helpful. If bearings and rings are in good nick i will leave them alone. With these basic mods, what power should i be able to support all day long? Any help appreciated. Thanks Dayna

Hey, I got 4th, i spun pushing my car a bit too much, pressure when up against the best. but will learn alot from the experience, next time! Very happy to get up there considering i got to get used to my cars new setup, thr rb26 goes very well i must say even on standard boost settings. Thinking about upgrading the oil system, dry sump. money money money! oh, and the miss?? i'm pressuming your talking about my car not running right due to the fact I had not finished the return piping for the blow off valves. Friday morning i finished the pipe work and it ran great. Other wise your talking about a little miss which is likely the plugs, or something. The car has not been driven enough for me to look into it. Currently modifiying guards for clearance and hopefully have a cert soon for road use. D

oh and i'm running new mobil 1 oil, worked good on my old engine.......

ok, i searched but can not find, so if i missed what i'm after point me in the right direction. I have got myself a GTR R32 RB26DETT motor from JAPA land. Standard engine. Apart from street use, i compete in Drift comps here in NZ, this motor has just been put in me car and soon to start it up and run it. I drive a Cefiro A31 Reliability is more important than max HP to me, so boost will be keept below 12psi. my Questions are: I have been told about worries of oil problems with the R32GTR engines. are they big enough that i should not be thinking about track use until I do some modifications? or are these engines just as reliable as any other RB engine. I have limited time before the next competition (2nd October) and could probably remove engine strip clutch etc and take sump of and do modifications, but is this necessary. sure its a good idea, but is it a high risk? Sump baffles should be easy to custom, any ideas?, but there is a common problem with the standard oil pump drive setup. How do I fix this. Please point me in the direction i need to go. Basically, am I good to go (as good as any other engine??) or should I flag the competition and do some work on the engine to make it reliable. I am running a standard engine, and will run 10psi-12psi boost. 3 inch exhaust, intake. the engine has supposedly done 70,000k My previous engine was a rb20det, done 170,000, i boosted it to 14psi and bet the shit out of it and it still goes mint till the day i removed it. Thankyou for you input. Dayna

thanks for that :-)

did a search couldn't find anything remotely useful, so apologise if this has been looked at. I have a r32 gtr rb26dett, standard engine, and i need ecu and afm's obviously r32 gtr parts will work, but do r33 gtr ecu and afm work? if modifications need to be done what mods? Dayna

could be keen, but do you happen to have airflow meters + any pipe work as well? Dayna

Hi I am in need of the following items, I live in New Zealand so need them sent there. R32 GTR (rb26dett) 1 x ECU 2 x airflow meters 2 x factory or aftermarket blow off valves, and pipe work if you can help ring/text/email/pm me Dayna +64 21612734 [email protected]

WazR32GTSt i scored the cams for NUDDA!, and it was just a matter of unbolting them (apart from all the work to take the cam belt off etc etc), and swapping them over, I changed both the intake and exhaust to the DE cams. it took me a cruisy 5-6 hours to do, i changed the cambelt and front oil seals at the same time. I wish i had a super accurate dyno graph of before and after but alas i don't, but i did do alot of runs using a g-tech meter and before and after times are virtualy identical, BUT here comes the major difference.... Boost starts to rise from 0psi approx 1900RPM! and will max(12psi) at approx 2500RPM. this is 500-600RPM lower than standard. torque down low is increased considerably even when off boost and just cruising. Top end power has not changed enough to notice. obviously it has but i believe not very significantly. I'm a drifter, thats what my car is built for, and now it has a better motor for driftin, but i have not lost outright drag performance...if anything it could be faster but i feel it is equal. it cost me nothin but time to do and i had to change my cam belt and fix the oil leaks anyhow so didn't take much extra to pop the covers off and swap cams over. it is more drive-able and cruisy and feels like it actually is a 6-cylinder now it skids up alot easier now thats for sure! hope this info helps Dayna

what is a standard rb20det spring rated at? 10psi? i'm guessing that the spring that i use would be relatively stiff?, i suppose its just best if i fiddle with some springs from the local shop... what form of measurement are springs rated on, whats equivalent to 3-5psi. cheers

hey sydneykid, how easy is it to change the spring? is it possible? looks like a sealed unit, but is it possible to cut it open change spring and reweld,seal.... or basically are ya looking at an aftermarket unit. and also on topic of springs, if you attached an external spring would it not add to the spring tension of the wastegate actuator? is the actuator just a spring tension against a diaphram which when boost comes in it pushes against that spring. so doing the previous it would be pushing against the external spring pressure as well? just a thought, please clarify if i'm wrong... cheers D

Joel, i agree with your software analyses and peak power thoughts! The cams have made a very noticable difference down low-mid, previous setup i would say that boost started to build up around the 3,000rpm mark. Now with the NA cams boost is at 5psi at 2,500 and peaking around 2700-2800rpm. Car is more responsive and feels alot more pleasurable to drive and each gear change is into a good power band! Being that my car is purpose built for drifting it is an avantage to have a fatter power curve and more usuable down low power. I give it the THUMBS UP! yes RB20DE cams 93RPS13 Dayna (more info check out my post on SDU forum)

re sydneykid "Hi Dayna, I don't think your mods cost you nothing. Do you get paid by the hour? If you do, what would you have made in the time it took you to do the work? At overtime rates? There is always a cost in lost opportunity. This may be outweighed by the satisfaction of doing it yourself of course. However time is irreplaceable, I never value it as being for free." yer my hourly rate is $40-50, I understand what you are saying and i do value my time. I will put it in another perspective then.... it cost me approx 1.5 hours (including driving and setup) $60.... compare that with adjustable peak and rise pheumatic system, parts $200, plus time spent to pick up parts, source parts, adjust and setup system, lets say 3 hours +, $320 cheaper bleeding system, get and find parts $30, plus labour, and setup, 2hr, $110.. The base mod ($60) gave a better result than the bleeding setup, and was very comparable with the advanced pheumatic setup(spelling!@!) although i'm sure with more onroad testing i could get a better result from the pheumatic setup. All the mods take time to install, if anything i would say that the initial mod takes less time and gives a good result. Less time, plus no cost = bargin. Dayna

that 'guy' is me! and i have finally changed them. I was just wondering if you Australians had some more info before i did do it. heres a copy of the post, more info coming.... well, finally did it today! done only a couple of g-tech runs, 166hp 15.58 quarter 7.54 0-60mph car 'feels' better down low, deffently no huge loss or gain of power, i would personally say at the moment that the car is running better, more drive-able, power feels smoother/stronger down low. boost is running low (10-11psi) and the g-tech runs were reasonable, considering i have done more runs of original setup since original post... and i was running quarters of up to 16.5!, i am finding the HP figure to be a good indicator tho. I will hopefully tomorrow fiddle with the timing some, and tweek boost slightly and get back to ya some more. Dayna

Could those that have actually put rb20de cams into a rb20det please reply, I know there are lots of speculation, but i would like facts only please. i have some de cams ready to put into my det, just wondering if i can find someone who has done it. i know the de cam specs look less impressive but what do they do in real life, ultimately i'm looking for more midrange power, as i'm driftin my car, so more wide usable power is good for me. please reply if you have done this, and with what type of result, and did you do any other mod at the same time. Thanks Dayna

hey, i also had an in line restrictor boost control, and even bleed control. but i thought the cheapest and best option was that same idea, i drilled a couple of holes and routed in through to the original holes, i am happier with the result, pity i had wasted money on the other boost mods, as this ones cheaper! like no cost!, also i have been playing around with the use of springs onto the wastgate lever, simple way of making the wastgate change its characteristics, just use a heavier spring for more boost. the only thing i noticed is that if reving 3rd,4th,or 5th when lower in the rev range, the boost will go higher than your optimum gear reving up, but i guess you should always be in the best gear of acceleration if you want to accelerate, even in town driving. just alot more foot control need to be used. I personally would love an electronicly controlled system, were boost was held perfectly at pre selected levels. but at the price of nudda for the above setup i keeping my money for better value mods. ps i keep my boost max at 14 but mostly around 12, reliable factor. Dayna