huddy

thanks for some clarity paul - your FAQ is not working atm though

what i found: the O2 sensor plug/connector had melted and was disconnected... could this be a problem? other things i did to try and fix problem: -tightened plug to ecu (it was not loose though) -checked connectors on coilpacks, injecotrs, igniter, AFM - all appeared in working order -change oil/oil filter/fuel filter (general maintenance) -checked vaccum hoses/connections - all appeared ok -check cooler piping (possible leak on boost??) - all sealed and tight any other things? it's been suggested it may be an 'earthing' problem - can anyone specify what earth's in specific (ie where are they on the loom) the car idles / rev's perfectly, i haven't had it on the dyno yet so i can't get it onto load/boost... ANY OTHER IDEAS??? many thanks -Matt

pic of my ceffy as it is currently... more mods (inc body) to come!

water was from the vented bonnet... good to keep heat out, but crap for wet weather... i'm going to have a closer look tomorrow, paying special attention to the wiring - coil loom / to the injectors / AFM... will also check all the vacuum hoses - if all goes well i'll start it up again to check it idles fine, but this wont tell me anything until i get it on the dyno to get some load/boost into it. Once on the dyno will try to isolate to a cylinder... ...so if you can just throwing things out there for me to check that'd be great thanks again -Matt

Problem - car is breaking down / missing above 4500, 5000 ish under load. Engine - RB24DET, GT3076r, Power FC. What i found initially - water in the valley with coilpacks (not good!) What we did to try and fix the problem: - soaked up all the water. - sprayed a bit of rp7 on coil packs as they didn't appear to be that wet. - changed 6 x spark plugs all round. went out and tested and still had same problems. so we: - changed 6 x coilpacks - went out test with normal boost of about 22psi and low boost of 1 bar. still had same problems, exactly the same symptoms. we then: - checked timing and swapped CAS went out again, still had same problems... People that were on the sidelines said that sometimes it seemed to clear up a little bit, and then be back worse than ever. My thoughts: - electrical / wiring problem. It hasn't ever had symptoms like this before even with the coilpacks (standard) / spark plugs (BCPR6ES gapped 0.7 - changed after every track meet). The igniter is securely fixed, and if it was this my thoughts are that it would be a more constant missing (it is not present on free revving the engine). Can anyone shed some light / help brainstorm? cheers -Matt

pics from G1

thanks mate, yeah it's fair to say that it's had a fair bit of work go into it over the years, just about all done by myself!

excellent - good work konect!

Hey Ryan, sus on the stag is standard - it's a RB25DET NEO AUTO, RS4. - GTR rims fit with no spacers / no scrubbing. Tows great cheers

it's been a while... so just a quick update - a few new bits have been ordered / fitted... will post pics when they're done. I have a bar welded in between castor rod brackets. Carbon Fibre GT wing fitted. Supernow rack spacer - on it's way 326 power modified knuckles - currently being done bolt on flares - on their way bolt on spacers x4 - yet to be fitted Also had a little bit of a bingle at mallala, but all fixed and painted, it was just fibreglass mainly. G1 rd 2 is this weekend so should have some good action shots

cage for sunroof???

more posts for kansai...?

old thread.... thanks anyway

so what CR will it be with the HG you are using? (sorry for the q's just trying to figure out what my CR could be with tomei pistons/1.2 tomei HG) thanks

^^ what would this make tomei's compression?

pic from SD weekend...

we ran out of time - we had it on the dyno and had to add fuel everywhere - but initially found differences of 30 odd rwkw lower because of it wheelspinning on the dyno - with almost 100L water in boot + 2 people, plus 1 person either side holding chocks on front wheels it still tried to jump off the dyno (twice)... but ended up netting same result of 262 with cam gears set at 0. due to adding fuel in throughout the tune - gives me the impression it's making more power - just cant get it to the rollers. Once we get more time / get around to it - will get it all strapped in properly and spend the time tuning it with adjustments to cam gears. on another note - made some more changes. to some things - new steering rack boots (checked s14 rack is not leaking yay) - tension bar to rear cradle / toe arms - locking washers all fited - cradle angle changed by adding pinapples - diff angle changed cheers -Matt

suspension is the same - like you said it is just the different angle for the tops. unless you buy a s13 one which is universal (has the holes on the differernt angle ASWELL as std position) like i have - you will need to either buy a specific A31 one - OR drill yours like you are doing spark plugs - check the NGK website or similar for results wires? (talking about leads?) - try sites such as 'TOPGUN' leads or 'EAGLE' leads etc.

i'm assuming it's coming in the housing etc - check your drive shafts if they are 5 / 6 bolts one of the easier ways to check... although worse case scenario you should be able to get the centre's swapped.

i'd got the .68 mate. it will definitely make for a fun drive! My RB24 has a GT3076r with .63 housing so it'd be great to see the results once you've got it all sorted

guys - don't reackon its the tie rod end on the REAR!!!! i had same problem - it was the BALL JOINT!!! you can use GTR etc in them... but they will still shit themselves as i found out - best off going non-hicas rear cradle swap!

cheers lyndon - btw was that 32 one with a rb20 box? or rb25 box? cheers

you're a champ tony - is that part number cefiro specific???

need one for the ceffy... are they same as anything else? how much to replace / get a new one? cheers -Matt

S14 steering rack fits in - but modification to line required (bend the shit out, and run the risk of it not working / get line modified)