huddy

ahh right, i'm just used to the old school round ones then i guess... *curses new cars LOL on another note for future reference with max towbars here is a way to wire up the plug (direct from MAX) 1. Using a Multimeter (set on the 12v DC scale) or a test light, ensure the earth wire is properly grounded. 2. Route the trailer plug Yellow, Brown, Red and White wires to the LHS of the vehicle for connection to the LHS taillight wiring. 3. Route the trailer plug Green wire to the RHS taillight wiring. 4. Turn on the vehicle park lights and using the tester determine the live wire feeding the park lights. Connect this to rhe Brown trailer plug wire using a white 'scotch lock' provided. 5. Using the same method, identify the LHS turn signal, the RHS signal and the stop light. Connect them respectively to the Yellow, Green and Red wires or the trailer plug. 6. Connect the vehicle earth wire (usually black) to the White wire of the trailer plug. In summary, the trailer plug colour code is: Yellow - Left Hand Signal Green - Right Hand Signal Brown - Tail Light Red - Stop Light White - Earth cheers

well it's fitted, and still not finished... the installer wasn't sure if a genuine nissan connector needed to be used, and didn't want to connect the one supplied in case it damaged something... *sighs... I know that others have used it. So can anyone give me a step by step for teh wiring and mounting of the connector (PICS WOULD BE GREAT!!!!) thanks heaps - Matt (btw i haven't even had a chance to check my connector, but is it rectangle one like in the previous pics??? do hire trailer places still have a lead for that style of connector?

around the $200 mark... i think

That bar is exactly what your car needed - looks sooo much tuffer now!!

dramas dramas... had it booked to get fitted today - turned out it was a bigger job than expected... so it wasn't done goes back Tuesday to get done now...

cheers TONY - your a champ!!!

if you need the master cylinder i have one - r32 gtst - suit 4spot calipers (used on my ceffy with bigger brakes, before i removed ABS) cheers -Matt

screw the actuator to 1 bar... wont even need to run the gay bleed valve then. This well help it ramp up hard for sure (check it on dyno for inj duty - my injectors (standard) were still good for 230rwkw (@ 1.2 bar with standard ecu and HKS fuel cut defender with hks 2530) - although your turbo should make more than mine did...

add me on the list - i'll try my best to be there

thanks for your help mate - appreciate it

yep (it would appear they have gone up) thats what i just paid - it was $51 delivery to SA (i paid $700 delivered, but i'm getting the $25 sent back) I received mine on Monday just gone. now to get it fitted!!!

carter - go the drum handbrake with URAS shoes - trust me if it's tensioned properly it is awesome!

thanks for your help mate

hmmm new will be last resort i reackon... i'm guessing you mean this whole assembly ? thanks - you don't have a part number do you?

^ i think you mis-interpreted the question being asked... I too would also like to know if it is worth doing - but on a standard plenum??

sorted...

will post new pics in a few weeks with new wheels hopefully

WTB in SA front passenger door window motor / regulator. must be in perfect working condition and all plastic bits in perfect (or near) condition. PM me if you can help cheers -Matt

they don't... but can you tell?

no worries ...they are just the 'clear' lenses from the other headlights yes... and they're glass.

good results!!! i've got my tomei poncams on the way also

mirrors were sourced from japan and the carbon fibre bonnet/boot/wing were all from VIVA GARAGE - www.vivagarage.com.au thanks -Huddy

Thanks guys will have more pics next weekend at G1 drift

thanks Ben - its been a fairly long planning process... i think it's got everything i've wanted for it now a31rb25 - japan champ

enjoy