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Everything posted by huddy
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now painted...
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what suspension are people using to tow a car trailer and car with their S2 stagea's??? is anyone using standard suss? if so any problems? cheers
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no thanks - too skinny
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seems to be the general consensus... r34 gtr rims...
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Looking at some rims for my stagea at the moment... Will 18x10 with +16 Fit??? (Work meisters with dish!!!) OR should i look at getting some 17x9 TE37's? OR GTR R34 rims??? decisions decisions...
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like the new look??? it was phat at the track - 3rd gear lights up everywhere!!! 4th gear scando entries into turn 1 at mallala is sooooooooo much fun!!! oh yeah TOMEI PONCAMS on the way
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located in SA... looking for short/quick shifter suit rb25box PM me with details thanks -Matt
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Twin Turbo Rb20 2.2 Redtop Nics 12porthead
huddy replied to Justa32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
there is a twin turbo RB20 laurel in SA atm. it came from queensland and was built in japan. It's rb20 with twin gtr turbo's + cams = 230rwkw at 14psi i think... and the 3037s - do it!!!! I've got RB24 with a GT3076r - 262rwkw and i've got a set of cams on the way so should be more. (head is standard atm) -
Rb20 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results
huddy replied to R31Nismoid's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
RB24 - Tomei pistons / tomei 1.2 HG / GTR crank / GTR rods GT3076r 262rwkw... (tomei cams on the way also...) -
PM sent
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Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?
huddy replied to RBsileighty's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
haha... ahwell... it works for me (i hope) lol. ROY - not 100% sure hey... i reackon it came down to the wastegate leak/exhaust leak... i could be wrong - but thats what i reackon! -
Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?
huddy replied to RBsileighty's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
i've only driven it home from dyno in stealth mode...lol i did gas it once... but it's hard to gauge as i was too worried about everything around me (especially coz i was on a trade plate)... I'm on the track saturday for testing It's only a little bit laggier than my setup with the hks2540 according to the graph -
NOW MAKING 262RWKW!!! I'll put some pics up of it all 'pigged out' off to mallala on saturday for testing!!!
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well i re-assembled it all and no more leaks!!! had it tuned...still no more leaks!!!! making 262rwkw atm on my RB24
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Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?
huddy replied to RBsileighty's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
to back that up... i'm in the club now!!! RB24 - GT3076r (.63 IW) standard head/cams/cam gears set on 0/standard throttle body/standard plenum. i'm looking into some poncams and hoping to get a bit more out of it. possible wheelspin up top also?? this was with rev limit at 7200. rev limit is now at 7500 -
trying to eliminate 1 thing at a time... I wasn't definite it was the gate leaking ...and time... (not the actual welding... but for me to find the time to go get it done before prac on saturday!)
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Hi Dangerman well once again i 'assumed' it was flat when the work was done... ...saying that though I JUST REFITTED IT ALL UP AGAIN... and it is NOT leaking! so i am completely clueless... as it seems to be inconsistent... i will keep an eye (or ear) on it to hear if it leaks again - if it does, then i'm thinking wastegate flap (when it rotates). thanks, i will keep this thread updated.
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thanks for all the brainstorming guys on that last sentence - i agree and originally it did not have the pipe welded onto the flange... but it was leaking so first thoughts was 'must be the dump design..' the gasket was provided by and has been used by the exhaust maker (Andrew) many times previously and had no problems whatsoever on many other setups (including screamers) i will try the G Clamp idea to suss out if it is the actuator (i doubt it though as it's brand new, and has a LOT of tension on it already) any more ideas for me to try???
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i ordered a 14psi actuator - so i assume that is what it is. i'm not trying to solve the response issue etc at the moment. just eliminate the leaking - i'm coming to the belief that it possibly doesnt seal when the flap sometimes seals in a different position. (flap not fixed position) i'm under the impression that 'if' i didn't go for the screamer setup then i wouldn't even be aware of the leaking issue... *sighs...
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yep it was pretty dark - i could see light throught the rear wheel... and when i opened the flap it was a bright glow... i'm still thinking wastegate though... as the exhaust its flawless imo... and if it was leaking, it wouldn't be leaking out the screamer as it is completely divided on the turbo and the dump + gasket + sealant... so if it was leaking it would leak around the housing, not into the screamer...
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well i removed the turbo today and i had a look around again... i put a torch into the exhaust housing (bright led one) and in darkness shone the torch into the housing to see if light was coming through... i did this with the actuator rod attached and also without it. no light came through (i could only see some sort of light through the rear wheel) which makes me think it is not leaking... which adds more confusion to it all... the flap has about 1mm play in direction (hence being off centre in the pic...), so i was opening, rotating/moving the flap and re-trying... and had no luck at seeing any light... I actually was hoping to find a fault so i could pinpoint it to something... any more relevant posts? keep em coming...
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sorry dale i edited that in later with the pics **EDIT** sorry should've added i know it is leaking as i can hear it on the screamer pipe, and when i put my hand over the screamer pipe (can feel gasses) to create a seal the exhaust note changes slightly... and the design itself looks like this - BUT there has been a pipe welded on and added to go into the back of the exhaust housing (rear wheel) MINE is the stainless one... The Black one is an example of how the pipe had been added on... the actuator has full tension atm - theh hole on the rod is 1 full circle/hole behind the flap/lever *if that makes sense* - pliers are needed to pull it onto it, and a fair bit of force to pull the rod...
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here are some pics **EDIT** sorry should've added i know it is leaking as i can hear it on the screamer pipe, and when i put my hand over the screamer pipe (can feel gasses) to create a seal the exhaust note changes slightly...
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hey guys... my .63 IW housing had the wastegate ported and a larger flap fitted - professionally done by a workshop I also have a stainless dump/front with screamer from AM performance - it was thought that this was the problem and Andrew went out of his way MANY MANY times to try and correct the pipe to eliminate this leak. and now we've come to the conclusion it cannot be the dump: - the back of the exhaust housing is all flush and it has a divider between the exhaust wheel and wastegate anyway (5bolt garrett housing). - the correct flange was made and wastegate port was made slightly larger to compensate for larger flap - there's a pipe welded onto dump that press fits (as you tighten it up)into the rear housing to the exhaust wheel so gasses cannot go into screamer pipe. - copper gasket is being used - and a high temp sealant to seal it up. this is why we've decided it cannot be the dump...so if it is the wastegate, obviously it is going to immediately effect response which is a big problem on a RB20 based engine (RB24) and this size turbo. - i've had the car running and disconnected the actuator rod to the flap/lever and opened it (immediately gets louder) - i re-close it and it will not close any more, and still leaks - the actuator rod has been adjusted to max tension just to try and eliminate the leak. and it still persists to leak. Has anyone got any ideas of what the problem/leak may be or coming from???? Has anyone had any similar problems???? ...only other variable that i can think of is that the wastegate flap can spin around on the tab, it wasn't welded into a fixed position... IT IS VERY STRANGE - as it has not leaked on some previous occasions! but then it would start...(without adjusting anything on the car at all)