huddy

whats the problem? front or rear? IF they are base adjustable? for front jack car up wheel off crack the locking ring undo 2 bolts at bottom of strut and wind the base to make the strut longer for rear almost exactly the same, except there is only one bolt at base of strut (there is another way to do it by simply cracking the base of the locking rings, and using a c-spanner to adjust, but unsure of your knowledge and how good my explanation would be; so this way (above) may be easiest to do.) IF they are not base adjustable, and height is adjusted by changing the preload of the spring simply use the C-spanner on the locking rings to adjust (lengthen/shorten) the coilover rideheight. You do not need to undo any bolts, just remove the wheel. good luck

nice photo that one!!!

good stuff - did anyone have any insight to the stutter problem?

mmm laurel! funky - not the only one, but maybe one of two?

yep already dont it much better vision! new alarm fitted aswell

yep of course i have! dunno about gas, supposed to get someone to do it coz its really bad for atmosphere or something but i have known people to simply unscrew and let it out... just unbolt the ac unit thing on side of engine. unscrew and remove air con condensor (need to remove radiator) and then just cable tie the loose lines afterwards. very simple once you get started

good stuff!

another silly question - the max towbars, do you need to drill any holes anywhere? or does it all use existing holes? (just wondering how hard it will be to install myself as i'm interstate to him) thanks -Matt

yes they're phat i rate these a LOT higher than the HSD's that i had in my car previously. much smoother on the street, but still stiff as for track work. i run 10/8 springs in my cefiro. for street you may want something a bit softer

even if u get a test light inside the coilpack connectors, you should be able to check they've got power - might have to do this with car trying to crank / accessories on. ( i did this on mine when i had trouble with #2 not sparking but it was getting power still :S ) i know the RB25DE (32 type i think) is compatible with the rb20det loom/ecu but not sure about the DET versions. as some have internal ignitor pack on coilpacks or something (S2 r33) when cranking individually check each coilpack to a cooler pipe (bottom of coilpack about 1cm away from cooler pipe) to see if they are sparking. Sounds strange if all of them arent sparking though. Check the plugs arent fouled aswell and/or really dirty. if they arent gapped properly it should still start i think, just miss and not run smooth. maybe post up in the forced induction section with another link to this thread -Matt

looking very nice! keep us updated

agree with you konect i hate the AVS's although the model 6 dont look too bad in 18's with the right width/offset... i'm telling you, you should 5 stud it. and maybe get some GT-C's or 34 GTR rims! mmm

hmmm i'm stumped. conversion are sometimes a bit tricky... no spark - and you have eliminated ecu / coilpacks / ignitor pack / plugs / afm / injectors. sounds like a wiring issue. i had a similar problem with my ceffy not starting, but this was with Power FC - would not start as my water temp connector was a bit buggered. one of the red lights on the dash lit up to tell me a warning, but didnt know until laptop software was able to trace it (no handcontroller). BUT - with the stocky computer it started first time as it has a limp mode etc...

excellent, well took it for a 2second drive around the block, and it does feel a little more torquey in 2nd! mmm... getting a bit worried now, starting to realise the extended potential of the stagea!!!

thanks for the info steve . I dont have a boost gauge in the car or a spare one laying around, so i cant check the boost levels to make sure its ok. So i'm 'guessing' that it is with this wiring thing done. Fingers crossed its all good, if not i guess i'll be posting up how i killed a stagea :S lol thanks again.

taken it from the DIY http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...id=2704246& sorry, the year is a november 1999 build. thanks -Matt

well re-fitted xenon's today!!! mmm also an engine bay shot also done the boost upgrade to std solenoid, hopefully its done correct :S have a front/dump off of my cefiro which i will try and fit up to the car also! ALARM tomorrow

hi there, just wondering what the deal is with the rocker cover? i think all i've seen have red writing on the NEO and TURBO ------------------------------------------------------- also is strut bar standard from factory? -------------------------------------------------------- and i have also just done the solenoid boost thingo is this correct? I have cut the black wire, taped over the side of the ecu, and extended and earthed the side coming from the solenoid. I have earthed it on the strut tower bolt (front strut bolt), above the strut bar and below the bolt thingo. IS THIS CORRECT? AND IS THIS A RELIABLE EARTH? pic -> thanks -Matt

Hi there i have a stagea RS4 with rb25 NEO in it. I have cut the black wire, taped over the side of the ecu, and extended and earthed the side coming from the solenoid. I have earthed it on the strut tower bolt (front strut bolt), above the strut bar and below the bolt thingo. IS THIS CORRECT? AND IS THIS A RELIABLE EARTH? pic -> thanks -Matt

oooh how much was the 2835 JK!!!!

hmmm thanks guys - i reackon i'll try work without pulling the headlights out muchly appreciated!

sold

vacuum hoses? O2 sensor plugged in? cant get it to miss at idle so cant check your coilpacks, but maybe do the silicon thing on them anyway - there's a DIY somewhere on skylines... if it was a flat out cooler pipe it would stall at idle, but if its only a slight leak under load then i'm not sure... but in theory it might cut out as you change gears and when you release the clutch it could fire up the engine again... just throwing some things in the air here, hope it helps

In a 1999 Nissan Stagea RS4 series 2, yes there is a battery in the engine bay.

V nice. kit / paint / roll cage / sparco's / intercooler / 5stud? with advan rims? very nice indeed, well done