S13Gene

Anyone know were i can buy these? cant seem to find a solid lead on them.

Alright, you have any idea what pin it is on the ecu? Should be battery voltage correct?

Chassis: USDM 1998 240sx (kouki) Engine set: ER34 Rb25det (Neo) Mods: Cometic headgasket, Arp headstuds, Isis Intake manifold (r33 IACV not wired in) Aftermarket no name fuel rail, Aeromotive 13109 FPR, FMIC, Q45 Throttlebody Pros: Starts with Brake kleen/ether, will idle, run an boost 12psi with no problems after started. Things ive checked, CAS, injector and pulse also drivers (on ecu "battery voltage), Have Spark on all 6, fuel pressue (43 an holds ign on), Compression, IGN signal +, Timing Plugs an gap.. Problem Dont matter if it is hot or cold i have to spray it with ether to get it to start. Unplugging the TPS or MAF does not help, this problem appear to happen after going to the Aeromotive FPR as with the stock rail i modified to work it started every time. im using topfeed injectors double 11mm for upper an oem neo lowers oring on brand new r33 cushions (sidefeed) found 3 of the cushion to o ring leaking (spray with brake kleen an need a misfire) thats not the reason it no starts though.

Well i got the fuel system installed an now have no start unless i use starting fluid, Fuel pump, CAS, injectors, an Fuel pressure are all correct. i have even checked voltage at the injector drivers, and coilpack drivers on the ecu.

No results found for 'r34 with r33 iacv'. even tried using the it differently.

So i need some help getting a S1 Iacv wired up on the neo, through some research i found that the brown plug is what i need to wire in to have a decent idle after accel, right now im heel toeing to keep her alive. Anyone have an insight?

I actually got it fixed last night, Now i just need to wire in the neo to s1 iacv, an set the q45 tps.

Well i diag it yesterday, For sure have leaking injector cushions/insultors were the injectors sit in the intake manifold (freddy) cant find any information on what size cushion i need for the stock topfeed injectors on the Neo engine.

Hello All, Im looking for OEM part number for the Rb25det neo topfeed injector cushions! Also has anyone ever had problems with a Freddy manifold leaking inbetween cylinder 2-3?? im pretty sure its just the cushions of a RB with sidefeed but just curious if its a problem..

Finally got to do some work on the Neo today. pic is attached,

Hey Im Gene currently have a S14 kouki Rb25det Neo swapped with some mods which is under going some work at this moment. I sold the car 2 years ago it was wrecked an swapped over from a zenki (black s14 in attachments) to a kouki which the owner didnt complete everything an sold it back to me knowing how nice the car was before an knowing i will create another monster..... Real LMGTS 18x8.5, Now has ISIS FFIM, q45 TB, full suspenion soon to have bigger turbo, injectors, AEM standalone, and a cage. i will get some up to date pictures this weekend of the kouki. Im from the Gulf Coast Region southern United States, Florida to be exact. Glad to see a US part in this forums.

Problem solved..

Alright update on whats going on. 3.33v TPS closed adjusted it as much as possibe and could only sqeeze out 2.567v made it better but still not right.... Im going to replace the TPS saturday, When thing I cant find is what the bottom 3 strands of wires are used for ? is that for the a/t control module?

Alright guys i have a USDM s14 with a RB25det Neo, FMIC, walbro fuel pump, Wiring spec Harness Drives idles etc .. Anyways I used Consult 2 to read codes out of the OBD1 port and some of the codes i knew i would have IE Boost sensor, ABS, TCS but its throwing a TPS code also which it has thrown 2 times. I have 6 wires coming off my TPS so im assumming that it is a Auto Engine? It is also throwing a TAC module. Idle is 1300 when warm just found that out last night via Consult 2 cold is 1700 when using Consult i can manuely turn on the ACC and drops to 750ish and holds. So to get the Point is the TAC needed? and is it throwing TPS code cause only the top half of the TPS is plugged in?

Alright so I ended up just tracing what wire i could back to the ECU, Found that one Connector is for Consult, and one is FPCM buy the ECU, still unsure about the one in the engine bay though i have a feeling its hicas stuff.

Alright so im curious to know if anyone knows what these plugs are for without having to go to trace it down... Anyone have any idea's? USDM s13 There are these two plug close to the ecu And this plug in the Engine bay Any information would be greatly thanked!!

Fuel pump is a 255lph, um about 2 years old now i seem to get perfect pressure under no load. Filter filter was just replaced last oil change. Something i noticed yesterday when at the shop was the SAFC-2 which i use only for sensor check and RPM claimed TPS voltage was .38 closed but when check it from the pin at the ecu it was .45 which is were idle contact usally is idles like a champ and idles down great i have noticed random idle rps some times its 1300 few lights down its 850 which is were i have it set, maybe a bad or clogged/dirty AICV? Im trying not to tear about things that are not need to be taken off.. Also seems to feel less responsive when its warm but cts ohmed out good,

Okay i have a rb20det that tends to bog/lean out right off takeoff 14.9 idle to 17.0 at less the 20% throttle, rb25 turbo afpr set at 38psi without vaccum, this issue accures when it cold and when its hot. i have checked maf voltage, replaced TPS sensor and set to .45 closed 4.4 WOT, also have change out coilpacks and ignitor with no change, plugs were changed out just 2 weeks ago. No missfiring, no bucking etc. This problem has haunted me since ive swapped in the Rb20 and now that ive worked out other issues i just need to figure this one out ive went throught via FSM and check ohms for everything ignation wise. no boost leaks it holds 20psi, and no vaccum leaks that can be found via Brake clean over everything possible to be a leak and the only place idle changes is PCV hose. if anyone can help put me in the right direction or have any helpful information on this please let me know.. im very mechanicly inclined so im no noob to Nissans or car Diag.

Thats were i have my Sard AFPR set at right now alittle higher then 35 i have it set at 38psi and 44psi with no vac i have OEM fpr, and cheap ebay one and my sard and have tried all 3 still same issue, not really worried about the AFRs now ass they are not that bad cruising or dropping down wot.. Spark plugs are Ngk 6's and yes 28mm. it appears that coming of a stop light with out blimping the throttle to take off it leans out 17.0 afrs bogs/Hesitates then right at 3200 rpm boost kicks in and it will take off enough that im spinning my 18x9.5's with a wielded diff. im going to be replacing the throttle postion sensor in hopes that my problem is the Closed and WOT contact points on the TPS. you think this could be my problem?

Mustangs are the Honda of American v8's there are everywhere here and are cheaply modded probably the most arrogant cock car owners also.. it always mad me smile when i mustang 5.0 guy pulls up next to my 240 and gives me a evil look trys to leave live a bat out of hell and my RB walks him, even my sr20 beat them stock vs stock American cars = junk unless its a Corvette (lsX motors) Camaro SS (mid 90s, also ls1) Trans-am WS6 (late 90s, also ls1) . they are fun for drift with just cooling upgrades and suspenion tho gotta love v8 instant torque.