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WMDC35

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Everything posted by WMDC35

  1. At those revs guess is the cam belt is loose & hitting the cover, I can't watch the video at the moment though.
  2. Yeah be interested to know how much meat is in them for porting.
  3. That's how I'd do it, I haven't used Maxxecu but most ecu's that work with rb25det neo will work with the neo de loom etc, check with whoever is going to tune it if they have a preference, Link is good in NZ as most tuners are fine with them.
  4. In most cases people cut the diff off the awd sump & grind the fins on the bottom & just keep the awd sump.
  5. I've done this both ways, I'd use the original loom & swap plugs on the engine side as you'll usually end up changing a lot of those anyway. Series 1 is usually non ABS which requires wiring which I can't remember how to do as haven't done it for over 15 years. The auto inhibitor is easy to bypass or in the meantime you can put it in neutral & unbolt it & tape it somewhere in the bay haha, then just wire reverse lights. I'd go straight to aftermarket ecu. A few basics are built in ignitor coils & reverse the CAS wiring, sort the plugs for whatever injectors & IAC-you can use an adaptor for the neo type otherwise the s1 will still work, use the knock sensors that suit the loom & it'll be pretty much running.
  6. If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
  7. Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
  8. If it's a factory 20de manual probably has the 6 bolt flywheel in which case the det clutches won't work as they're 9 bolt.
  9. VQ started in 94 so started as Japanese before things went wrong haha.
  10. FWD is different though.
  11. At a guess being carb all the dash loom will be different & will probably need more work there or replaced.
  12. Hard to tell from the vid but it's possibly the cam belt.
  13. Replace with a used tank?
  14. That's not a cheap car though, well not in NZ anyway, either way 8s isn't cheap lol
  15. 25de in c33 a31 is different to r32/r33 s1 which is different to r33 s2 & r34 so you can vaguely do whatever man.
  16. That's the pink sticker type, you haven't said what car so no idea if it's correct, 25de or det is the same in the same model.
  17. There wasn't any factory manual c35s, any rb manual box will fit.
  18. Seatbelt bolts are 7/16 UNF in most cases
  19. Seems a reasonable price, some other things to consider, driveshaft & xmember, you'll need to run the speedo off the abs, an after market lever/bracket. You'll most likely want to change the diff ratio, do you need any kind of certification in the uk for it? If the car is quite low, the cd will hang down lower than the 25 box.
  20. Yeah I'm just on a controller as well, I've got a few golds but mostly silver or bronze, usually depends how far off the silver I am whether I keep going after getting bronze.
  21. Awesome, I'll give it a try, I need the money haha.
  22. Shaft play won't tell you much in this case, the ceramic wheel is bonded to the shaft which is where it lets go
  23. Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
  24. Been a long time since I've played with those but I think C33 twin cam is the same as A31, any reason you're not using the engine loom you had before? Engine side is pretty much the same except the cir clip type plugs on A31/C33 so could swap plugs or electrics to suit.
  25. R33 NA comes as rb25de or rb20e, so either of those, or r34 rb20de
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