WMDC35

as above, should run enough for testing/short drive to dyno, throw some new plugs in before going on the dyno

different bore size

as above stock is fine for most, otherwise vh45 throttle body

still needs the correct wiring setup

as above, can be wired in but not direct plug in

as above, r33 will usually have the half round type cas drive, the last of the s2s that take the neo style cas has a rectangle with a dip in the middle

it'll bolt up to the auto, will run off the 33 loom & ecu if you change plugs, cas wiring & maybe coil wiring, assuming the 33 is a 25de not a 20e changing loom & ecu would be better

Was a T56 @ 21psi, have just changed the turbo though & waiting to dyno

Yeah, still only the two pumps. Taupiri Auto Store have drums of Gull E85 which works out around $3 a litre too, may end up having to go that way

I've got a spare motor, things never break when you've got a spare E85 is still hard work in NZ

I wouldn't do the gasket either, I reckon the ring lands or rod bolts will go before the gasket

Sounds like the thread should've been On Holiday R33 S2 at those revs

should do, pretty sure the plug setup is the same for s2 & neo coils (just check the symbols near the plug for wiring)

+1, stock series 1 @ around 340 on 98, shooting for a bit more soon

just a standard 25 turbo is probably better for the 20, with a tune WRX? knock knock! who's there? EJ20! EJ20 who? EJ20 with #3 big end farked! now go wash your mouth out with soap!

had a look at Sinco Customs?

as above, only use chemiweld if you car is a $500 POS which you're trying to keep running for a bit longer before you get it scrapped

the people that design this stuff know what they're doing, the stock manifold still works well at over double it's original power, and is debatable whether even the performance designs work better, but it's all good anyone can hack it up and improve it? it seems that the people against it only have proof in what has been seen in the past so have no interest in experimenting with it so far the argument for it is it's going to be boosting hard so doesn't matter? i'm surprised there's even people still talking about wanting to do it, refer the pros & cons list earlier in the thread

this for sure, underneath is a nightmare

That's no good Scotty, you'll probably be doing the cutting & shutting?

It may have been alot hotter than the gauge says too, if it's lost enough water to overheat there may not have been enough water left in the system to give the sender a decent reading, probably why it didn't go up more as you drove further, doesn't sound good at all

yeah, comes just after stomaching the reality of the budget lol

you're just still gutted about trent saying tractor SRs are a long way off the 4g63s

haha ok, you should really take that shitty RB thing back?

some die, some are killed, i'll always take later than sooner as i said before if you want to do it & the tuner is happy to tune it, do it