WMDC35

This is what most people do, you have to grind the fins on the bottom of the sump for a bit of clearance. R33 is front sump, not many rb cars are rear sump, z31 rb20 is rear but haven't seen any others.

Are they +22, +24?

You could probably use the z32 tt manual speedo drive gear to sort the speedo out? OEM 300ZX (Z32) Twin Turbo Manual Speed Sensor Pinion Gear (TT) - Z1 Motorsports - Performance OEM and Aftermarket Engineered Parts Global Leader In 300ZX 350Z 370Z G35 G37 Q50 Q60

There's 1 in the 25 dyno results a couple of pages back

Usually when Nissan is ground off it's just for wheel clearance.

Selling up now? Had enough?

Probably be ok, if any issues you could just run a bit more power/boost for the low boost.

/\ Another vote for cam timing, double check it's timed up using all the right marks, guess is it's way out.

Genuine type x aero kit, impossible to get though

Manual non turbo r33 speedo drive should sort it, electronic drive for the 20 box

Just plumb it in before the throttle body joiner Definitely go DBW with the g4x if you can

Plenty of high end race cars run no bov, also the 20det c33's & a31's had no bov from factory

And CVT's that "shift gears"

If you want to keep the 20 not much to swap from the 25, better to swap the whole motor, if you want to keep the 20de manual & a 4.6 diff

There isn't any that bolt straight on nicely, just go custom, not much point on the na though, just be a horrible megaphone

Front can't get much at this point although the front one is pretty reasonable anyway, rear can use r33 or 4 etc

could do, won't really gain anything over 98 or probably 95 though

Power mods for the 25de aren't really worth doing, better to turbo it at some point, c35 you end up changing nearly every part of the car though once you start to mod it. Not really any common problems.

Looks like the food was 36m? Yeah stock 30 year old RE4 with a 3788 even at 9psi doesn't sound ideal

Can't see it having less than about 5 degrees of camber so as a daily road car will murder the inside edge so be flipping or replacing the tyres pretty regularly, & no grip really anywhere, hopefully not going high enough speeds at 10/10ths on the road to roll up that much camber.

As above the low hanging fruit would most likely be afm, then maybe o2 sensors, sometimes if they 02s are just starting to go it might feel like the lost power kicks back sometimes when accelerating, is it high ks? Get any better or worse as it warms up? VQ35 Elgrands mow gas at the best of times, also prone to chain issues so if ks are getting up pay to check how far the tensioner is out will give an idea if stretch is a becoming problem, I didn't read the whole thread so may have missed something from previous comments

Depends on how much camber & stretch etc you're happy with but I'd say be a bit much, as Duncan says will probably poke about 17mm more than what you have now so up to you if that's what you want, camber arms will help in terms of giving it enough camber to get he top of the tyre under, that much camber isn't road legal in some places I'd say the 9.5 +25 is pretty max already

I have A disk front & O disk rear clearing no problem, R disk is for bigger than the stock 4 pot setups

I haven't tried it this way but I''m guessing it would work, as GTSBoy says there are extra sensors but with the link I'd guess once again lol that you'd just have to wire in the boost control solenoid unless just running gate pressure, the boost sensor & traction probably shouldn't be an issue with the link. Have you checked the Link site? See below lol Suitable applications: RB20DE NEO, RB25DE NEO and RB25DET NEO in R34 Skylines RB20DE NEO, RB25DE NEO and RB25DET NEO in C35 Laurels RB20DE NEO, RB25DE NEO and RB25DET NEO in Nissan Stageas - Plus, non neo motors in Stageas

Had plenty in NZ, uncommon choice for anyone somewhat enthusiastic, all 2litre r33s are sohc 20e