WMDC35

I know not the best pic!haha, but this is 255 35 on a 10 and 245 35 on a 9(front) i'll try put a close up of the 10 tomorrow, it's not majorly stretched

I've got the Mishimoto rad, seems to work well, even on the dyno in mid summer!, no heating issues at all

Skyline model = Laurel C35 Club S (Skyline in a tuxedo ) Wheel model = Work Meister S2R Wheel diameter = 18 Wheel width = Front 9, Rear 10 Wheel offset = +35 Tyre size = Front 245/35, Rear 255/35 Modifications to fit = Rolled gurads, -1.8 camber front, adjustables with spring upgrade (10s&8s) so not toooo much wheel travel

If you can get a snap on camera or similar you can check the waterpump impellor through the hole when the thermostat is out, saves taking all cambelt off and is a 2in1 quick check

Usually when I've seen pumps fail it's when car is stopped and just wont start? (not including leaning out from not enough flow)walbro (500hp 255l) is good unless high fuel pressure

Link G4 is popular with the tuners I speak to lately, and not much more expensive than what alot of people want for a second hand power fc!

Try and get hold of a housing to try? I tried .70 twin scroll (now .63 open) on a 25 and the car was such a pig!

As joeyjoe says, 180ish on a 25, 200 on a high dyno with a little too much timing, and maybe frisbee exhaust wheel

As above, and generally all are rising rate? (ie with a 1:1 as the manifold pressure rises so does the fuel pressure)

Good condition Power FC for R33 RB25DET Cheers!

Hey, as above, looking for 1 to suit r33 rb25det Cheers

hey, is it for series 1 rb25det? do you have the number off the sticker? cheers!

hey, it's an rb25 r33 power fc? (not a r32 26?)(or do you have number off the sticker?) cheers

side feed, neo top feed

Electronically mine seems to function as it should, (switches in neutral also) I'll check the mechanicals when the cams come out, just found this is for sr but some of the basics are covered in general zilvia.net/f/.../238600-s14-sr20det-vvt-problem.html cheers

I wondered about this too, I know a r33 which was modded to 270rwkw at 120,000ks and then 300rwkw at about 175,000ks, now has done about 235,000ks and still going strong, it's taken a ruthless beating! road car(he's an idiot on the road!) with track days, and poor maintenance! Another drift track only with 300 for about 5 years and now 340 still going strong, both have good tunes as we keep hearing for good reason, mine's at 300rwkw now and will probably stay under 320 and will be going for track days, will leave the std motor and see how goes!haha Cheers

I agree, awesome posts! The car is a C35 Laurel Club S, the r33 and c35 looms aren't much different and almost plugs straight in I'll try as GTSboy suggests for a kickoff, I know someone with a real time scanner so can make sure it's being controlled at the right times It does make a resonant noise at about 1100-1200 rpm which I've heard many 25s do which I thought may have been the pulley starting to flog out like the sr's sometimes do, was thrown off this when heard a non vct 25de make exactly the same noise I'm going to go and have a play with it now! Cheers!!!

This is also a way to run the 26 power fc on the 25 or would the high injector impedance not work out?

It'll run fine, even the standard compression 20de's are pretty lazy and due to lead booting mow the gas more than a 25de, may blow up from super revving as people say, the auto 20de c33 I had would shift past redline at 7600 and I still couldn't get in front in merging lanes against pussers that were probably not trying that hard to stop me

Should make 300 without e85? otherwise 15 grand of your money and this will desimate all

Cheers, I'm pretty sure it's not electronic and I'd be surprised if it's blocked because the motor is very clean inside, can hear the solenoid click fairly well so maybe at a guess it's the pulley itself, anyway of testing the pulley? the cams are coming out anyway so can put another one on at the time I always thought the vct was a bit if a gimmick so I'll be happy if can gain something! Cheers!

Have a r33 25det motor with bolt ons Can hear the vct click on just off idle as it should and if powered up directly hear the exhaust note change so seems to be working but driving the car with it unplugged or plugged in seems to make no difference? Also on the dyno it seemed to 5/8ths of FA I'm about to do cams so would be a good time to replace something if needed? Any ideas? Cheers

Hey, usually warranty is not transferable, if possible see if you can get the person who had the work done go and bat for you with the engine builder Good luck!

I'm running 38mm tial v band, no complaints

Cheers Boostn! Don't want to remove vct that's just for the kellfords as they don't have any billets to suit vct at the moment Methz, sent pm