WMDC35

There isn't any that bolt straight on nicely, just go custom, not much point on the na though, just be a horrible megaphone

Front can't get much at this point although the front one is pretty reasonable anyway, rear can use r33 or 4 etc

could do, won't really gain anything over 98 or probably 95 though

Power mods for the 25de aren't really worth doing, better to turbo it at some point, c35 you end up changing nearly every part of the car though once you start to mod it. Not really any common problems.

Looks like the food was 36m? Yeah stock 30 year old RE4 with a 3788 even at 9psi doesn't sound ideal

Can't see it having less than about 5 degrees of camber so as a daily road car will murder the inside edge so be flipping or replacing the tyres pretty regularly, & no grip really anywhere, hopefully not going high enough speeds at 10/10ths on the road to roll up that much camber.

As above the low hanging fruit would most likely be afm, then maybe o2 sensors, sometimes if they 02s are just starting to go it might feel like the lost power kicks back sometimes when accelerating, is it high ks? Get any better or worse as it warms up? VQ35 Elgrands mow gas at the best of times, also prone to chain issues so if ks are getting up pay to check how far the tensioner is out will give an idea if stretch is a becoming problem, I didn't read the whole thread so may have missed something from previous comments

Depends on how much camber & stretch etc you're happy with but I'd say be a bit much, as Duncan says will probably poke about 17mm more than what you have now so up to you if that's what you want, camber arms will help in terms of giving it enough camber to get he top of the tyre under, that much camber isn't road legal in some places I'd say the 9.5 +25 is pretty max already

I have A disk front & O disk rear clearing no problem, R disk is for bigger than the stock 4 pot setups

I haven't tried it this way but I''m guessing it would work, as GTSBoy says there are extra sensors but with the link I'd guess once again lol that you'd just have to wire in the boost control solenoid unless just running gate pressure, the boost sensor & traction probably shouldn't be an issue with the link. Have you checked the Link site? See below lol Suitable applications: RB20DE NEO, RB25DE NEO and RB25DET NEO in R34 Skylines RB20DE NEO, RB25DE NEO and RB25DET NEO in C35 Laurels RB20DE NEO, RB25DE NEO and RB25DET NEO in Nissan Stageas - Plus, non neo motors in Stageas

Had plenty in NZ, uncommon choice for anyone somewhat enthusiastic, all 2litre r33s are sohc 20e

You're probably better off going with something like the Jim Wolfe adaptor where you cut off the whole bell & use a bell off an auto, seems to work well

If it's a copper mix single it won't fit a stock or AM flywheel other than the nismo

Saying you think or thought something because of what people are doing isn't a concrete statement Someone could say it fits but its not quite right but you have to blow it up & say i'm bashing people , ok superben Not worth bothering i'll just delete my account like everyone else

Depending on what country you're in can make a big difference, the head gasket issue is what will hurt you the most, just need to advertise it & see who's around at the time

I haven't bothered pulling the intake off a de neo but as I said I thought they mustn't be much different with so many turbo intakes on de's. You can correct people without saying they're making bullshit statements & trying to make an argument when you added nothing. So there's no turbo intakes on de's? That's a bullshit statement? This is why so many that used to comment on SAU have gone

Fill it up, zero the trip, drive & then fill it again to calculate k/l

Yeah need to go by km/l not the gauge, usually around 10km/l , highway usually a bit better

Plenty of neo de's with turbo intakes on them around, I think that small port thing was started by someone that got a 20 head but was told/thought it was a 25 head

Have seen some leak from the seal between the filler neck & the tank which would probably leave it with around 1/4 of a tank

The r34 mounts should work on the 30 in a 34

(Or vice versa, neo box should be pull clutch)

The trans issue in the early ones was usually the material around the input bearing wasn't good so would usually put a new bell housing Will probably need brakes & wheels can crack

She's done unfortunately

Easiest way is usually find the twin cam loom for whatever car you have