180 wanabe

Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open

If the car is legal height I can't see it being an issue. Found a thread on reddit that might offer some insight. I got a ticket from a copper in QLD for my S15 being too low. They had this wheel thing on a stick that they put under the car and it hit my exhaust. Anyhow went to an exhaust shop to get the exhaust tucked up/hung a little higher and I wound the coilovers up a smidge. Don't think I even had to go back to the police station unlike when I got defected for having a carbon bonnet when I brought the S15 from the ACT to QLD and had to replace it and then rock up at a police station and have a yougish female officer who knew nothing about cars confirm that I had changed bonnets. Should have just painted the carbon bonnet yellow to match the rest of the car lol

That might be so, but as per my rough calculations in my 1st post at the current time of typing this, buying the Q50s and fitting the upgrades still yields around a 13k difference. So even if the Infinity doesn't hold its value its going to be 10 to 13k cheaper upfront with better upgrades than the stock 400r. This allows plenty of left over budget to fit a tranny cooler, LSD, catch can, heck even new turbos if the std ones shit themselves. Probably cheaper insurance as well. I can only hope that either the 400rs drop 10k in price around the middle of next year "my investment loan comes off fixed interest and I will refinance with a bit extra to fund the new car" or I can find another stock Q50s with low kms for even less than the one I found a few days ago which seems to be the more economical option. I could always just debadge the Q50 and swap the front grill for a Nissan one and slap on a 400r badge on the back to have the best of both worlds haha

Think I found another reason to buy the Q50 rather than the skyline import, seems that unless you get the 400r the other models such as the GT miss out on the decent brakes and don't have the flappy paddles on the steering wheel to change gears. Its my day off work today and the Q50 listed @ the dealer in Brisbane that I mentioned in my 1st post looks like it sold as its listed as no longer available... Would have checked it out but can understand why it sold as it was a bargain price.

Pretty sure that the Ecutek can also tune the TCM for quicker gear changes as well

Also I'm a little turned off by the engine being only direct injected. If you put a catch can on early enough this should save all the build up on the valves and intake ports ?

Yeah I would like to try and get a ADM car to reduce issues with insurance. I've decided if I end up getting this car I will set it up to be a sleeper build, leave it looking stock/dad spec on the outside I wonder if you can just drop in the 400r/Red/Z ECU or better still use a flashing tool to copy the map off one. Backup the factory map and then flash the 400hp cars onto the 300hp cars ECU?

So next year I am looking at upgrading from my VE SS bomadore ute to something more refined. I wanted to stick with a V8 but not anything German or Australian, either a coupe or a sedan. So if I wanted anything newish that limited my options to either the Lexus RCF which I quite like. But with the price they demand and a kid on the way a 2 door coupe is probably not going to be the best idea. The next best thing would be the ISF but the newest models are 2014 and commanding over 60k and even the older 2008 models in ok condition starting around 35k is kind of bullshit. So I figured if I could not have the noise I could perhaps make do with easy power. Enter the infinity Q50 or Skyline equivalent. The price difference between the 300 and 400hp models seems a bit crazy. Right now there is 300hp Q50 one on carsales from a dealer with 61km for 27k drive away. If I wanted to get a 400hp Red or 400R car the prices seem to start at 43k From my limited research it seems that the only differences are that the 400r/Red Red runs more boost and a more aggressive tune. There are are turbine speed sensors on the turbos. Has 2 pumps for the water to air intercooler. Runs an engine oil cooler. I'm guessing that the exterior trims might look a little more sporty as well. I had a lazy look for upgrades to bridge the gap on z1motorsports They have kits that upgrade the water to air heat exchanger as well as the coolant pump which should give a non Red/400r better intercooling temps than the stock Red/400r. I added an engine oil cooler with a thermostat as well to try and make things as close as possible. Obviously the ECU is going to need a tickle. Having not done much in the way of research they also sell a ECU flashing tool with pre loaded tunes that are supposed to boost the non Red/400R by 100hp which adds 1k USD to the cost. The total cost of the parts @ the current time including shipping and taxes worked out to be $4350 AUD. Personally I would rather get the car tuned on a dyno which would probably add more cost Assuming the worst that you got a workshop to install the new parts I would guess no more than 5 hours would be required in the worst case @ 5 x $150 per hour = $750 So the total cost could be around $5100 So for easy number 5k + 27K = 32k I guess that would leave some change left over to swap out the open diff and fit a LSD Any thoughts?

Hi guys Went drifting yesterday and managed to loose 3rd gear. Now that sentience alone would normally be a no brainier as to what went wrong only there are a few things about my car that makes this strange. My car is a S15 with a SR20 making 300 hp @ the wheels, I broke the 6 speed about 18 months ago and decided to just bite the bullet and pay the extra to upgrade to a RB25 box conversion and not have to worry about breaking a box again in the future. When I broke the 6 speed I lost gears 3 and 4 + reverse would sometimes want to randomly go forward... With the current gearbox all of the gears apart from 3rd seem fine. The strange thing is when you move the stick to what should be 3rd gear it seems like there is nothing there at all. There are no noises, crunches or grinding sounds. You can have the clutch fully engaged with the box in neutral and move the shiftier to 3rd and its like there is nothing there/the same feeling as if the clutch was disengaged? Could this be a broken selector fork? I'm a little stumped, I will admit that this happened during an entry into a corner. I had pulled the hand brake to kick the car out and was either in 3rd gear at the time or had just shifted from 2nd to 3rd and did a clutch kick to break traction. My thoughts were that the RB25 box was good for 400+hp and that 300 should be a cakewalk for the box to deal with. Since doing the RB25 box upgrade I have only done 1 previous drift session and on the day that I lost 3rd "yesterday" had only been on the track for about an hour. I have been trying to smash my mortgage not more gearboxes which is why the car has seen very little use. The only other things worth mentioning is that after the conversion there was noticeable vibration in 3rd and 4th gear when coasting/decelerating which the shop that did the conversion blamed on my diff as it was getting tired. I also have alloy slip in diff-subframe mounts/collars which would probably also cause more noise. Anyone else had this happen with their box and what was the solution?

Hi there I am after a S15 bonnet any colour will do but would prefer yellow PM me or txt me if you have one for sale 0401163847 Thanks Stuart

I had a decent look under the car when it was on the hoist everything appears to be fine The new toe rods and camber arms were a fair bit heavier than the stock items so I agree with your fusible link comment Camber arms were fine but I had adjustable ones put in at the same time just in case

So this is what a custom toe rod looks like....

I'm 99% sure its the toe/traction rod/arm whatever you want to call it, I'm hoping that I don't need to get camber arms as well Now as I am trying to keep the car as roadworthy and defect free as possible dose anyone know what the deal is in QLD about rose joints? I'm pretty sure years ago when I took my 180sx to the pits after it got defected I had to swap out my aftermarket castor rods for the stock ones as they got knocked back for having rose joints Had a look at the Queensland transport website but was not able to find anything specific, can probably call them up on Monday to find out for sure but in the mean time if anyone knows pretty sure that these ones from just jap are rose joints http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16572&cat=&page=2 these ones on ebay look more like urethane/rubber http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Adjustable-Nissan-350Z-Z33-Infiniti-G35-03-08-Rear-TOE-Control-Arm-Bar-Rod-Kit-/271115167760?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1fb92810&_uhb=1

Now I'm a little confused, are toe arms and traction rods the same thing?

after a quick look on google seems I have bent one of my toe arms

So went to the Friday night drifts and was having a pretty good time, car was running well Was finishing off my 285s and had some stock wheels to drive home on Anyhow I had a spin which didn't seem all that different to any other times I have had the car spin out on the track over the last few years until I got back on the track and realized something was not right At 1st I thought I may have popped a tyre as the steering wheel was turned a quarter turn to the right in order to drive straight. I limped off the track to discover that my tyres were ok, however something was very wrong with the back left wheel as you will see in the pics Pulled the wheel off and had a look, seems like I have bent some rod that has caused the wheel to toe in + also screw up the camber Put the wheel back on and checked to see that it was not fouling on anything when it turned and that it was tight had no play in it and was not wobbling Drove the car around the block and it seemed derivable so I went back home at 80kph on the hwy Surprisingly the car still drives pretty straight, the steering wheel seems to correct the cars direction by moving itself a quarter turn right Have posted pics of how the wheel is sitting inside the guard Have also posted a pic of the rod that I think I have managed to bend on the left side along with a picture of the rod on the right side which looks a lot straighrer Can anyone tell me the name of the rod I have bent and any ideas on what options I have to get this sorted? Might be calling up the wrecker in Victoria that had a few V35s for parts or are there aftermarket items available? straight bent got toe in?

Top diff and a fantastic price considering it includes the stub axel!!! Sick of peg legging it off the line or having the inside wheel light up around a corner on your stock auto V35 do yourself a favor and buy this

This is exactly my point I have run 98 for years and now that I have started to run 95 I can't detect ANY difference, everything feels and sounds the same and yet I am getting slightly better fuel economy which is one of the main reasons why I have raised this point

Hi there For years I've been filling up with 98 octane and for the most part when it came to my 308rwkw 180sx and my super sport bikes "GSXR1000, ZX6R" it seemed to be the logical thing to do Until the last 3 tanks I have been doing the same with my V35, however I decided to give the 95 a go and see if I noticed any difference As far as I can tell the car runs exactly the same which is no surprise I guess given that its running the factory ECU, interestingly enough I seem to be getting slightly better fuel economy as well on the 95 compared to the 98 So my thinking is that the factory ECU will do things such as advance/retard the timing on its own depending on how much knock it is detecting, however there is only so far that it can advance the timing. Perhaps the factory ECU is limited/unable to advance the timing past the point where any benefit would be noticed running the higher 98 octane ?

I'll stick to my 280kph Nismo setup

I seriously hope whoever did that to your car trips over whilst j walking and gets run over by a semi

I am with NRMA and they play silly buggers with me every year my insurance is due, last year was no exception with them wanting allmost 2k!!!! fortunately I was able to get them to beat a quote by AI insurance which brought my price down to a much better $800 Still given when I 1st got the car and insured it 4 and and a bit years ago for 30k they wanted $1500

Not my cup of tea but hey its your car feel free to put a big Herro Kitty sticker on the side if you like

I find that the chassis handles pretty well, for the most part I have run 245 on the front and 285 on the back with 19" rims using Federal tyres which whilst not the most expensive seem to hold the road just as well as the Kumo KU19's I had on before. Kicking the tail out for me is predictable although I noticed its a lot easier to do with 245 compliance rubber on the back combined with the transgo shift kit

I would say doing an ECU reset would be enough to sort out any leaning issues. Its not like your slapping a super/turbo charger on the car thats going to boosting a significant amount of extra air through the engine requiring a significant amount of extra fuel to be added to the mixture