180 wanabe

Well guys went to the track today times were pretty much the same except understeer was more noticeable this caused vdc to kick in slowing the car down. This may have had something to do with the fact my front tyres were not far off the ware markers and were looking rather shagged after the session. The front left copped it pretty bad with vdc grabbing it's break every time I went around a right hand corner/sweeper which is most of the corners at qr. I'm going to get some sticky tyrers for the front which should be able to cope with the stiffer sway bars. Btw my quicker times were with vdc off

DS2500 went well didint suffer any fade from them and they got rather hot

Ferodo DS2500 seem to do the trick for me. Will be taking the car to the track in less than 12 hours and will be able to let everyone know how they hold up

Mate I think its a lovley car best of luck

I was told that fitting the front one was a bit of a bitch to do by my workshop guy, the rear was easy enough though

If your cars an auto then its got an open diff $1850 including delivery to my door + all customs and taxes paid etc then im going to have to pay another hour or 2 for labor to get the workshop to install it I could have got a cheeper jap brand mech 1, 1.5 or 2 way LSD eg nismo/kazz but I wanted something that didint make noises and need regular oil changes so I went quaife

Anyone know if the whiteline black box would work with the V35? it works with the Track 350z so I guess that means anyone with an auto is out of the picture

2 hours labour @ $80 per hour the pair were $564 including freight to my place in QLD

Iv been using the Nulon 5w30 with no problems, have been changing it every 10k but now im doing track work might change every 5k

Well it pretty much pissed down rain straigt after I picked the car up, so I havent had a chance to "push" the car although steering dose feel a bit more direct. I'll have a better idea when I take the car to the track next Wednesday

Just had my whiteline sway bars fitted today For those of you who dont know the front bar has 2 levels of stiffness and the rear 3 I decided to have my front set to the softer setting and my rear to the middle setting I did this because I didint want to have the front too stiff which = understeer and at the same time I didint want the rear to be too stiff = oversteer so I went for the middle setting I know a couple of people on here have these bars fitted and I want to know what settings they have chosen and how they have affected the cars handling over stock

This is one of the reasons I just spent a fair bit of dosh on a LSD no more trying to take off quick @ the lights or at a intersection to avoid traffic only to get slowed down to a crawl and sometimes be in a dangerous situation... iv actually been pushing the VDC button when I know I have to take off quick for this reason

Got my new rears, wanted to get some KU36s but the 285 35 R19 was out of stock pretty much everywhere. Ended up getting some Federal 595 RPMs in the same size they seem to fit the rim perfectly which is 10" wide compound is supposed to be gripper than the KU36, ill have a better idea after my next sprint session on the 5th of October

The triptronic is useless on the track, takes to long to change gear. Works well however @ the drag strip

Ok guys have pretty much ordered the diff, the shop I was talking to in Perth never got back to me with an e-mail and I dont like getting f**ked around As soon as I get the payment details I will be ordering the diff from MPS Garage its going to set me back $1850 including freight to my door on the Gold Coast

Also price wise Torsen vs clutch pack I do remember having to pay $95 for a can of KAZZ diff oil every 3 to 6 or so months depending on how many k's/ track days I had done. Although from what I read on the instructions KAZZ says u should change it every 5000ks....

The other shop in Perth called me back said $1700 - $1800 I told them to e-mail me the details The diff however would end up on the west coast with the other diffs they had ordered so Im not sure if thats 1700 - 1800 to me or if im going to have to add postage to the east coast on top of that

Got a e-mail today from a shop in Sydney about the diff its going to set me back $1815 and about 4 to 6 weeks before I can get it Iv also called up a shop in Perth that also sells quaife diffs and am waiting on them to get back to me. They sell the QDF13L for $1681 which is the diff replacement for the viscous LSD in the 350Z Now I cant see how the QDF10L and the QDF13L can have that much of a difference in production costs so Im interested to see what sort of price they get back to me on the QDF10L it should be about the same All seems a bit on the expensive side given that I picked up my KAZZ 2 way for my 180sx for about $1200 5 years ago

My 180sx has its rear plate cut to fit in the rear bumper... never had a problem with the plate being cut even when I was defected by the cops, or when I was @ the pits this is in QLD however

Last time I was @ QR there was a guy with a supercharged 350z with a 5 speed auto I know his car had a supercharger/intercooler, the exhaust looked stock. He said it made 215 @ the wheels.... and it made around 140 stock.... Dosent sound right to me when my V35 with a catback makes 170 with the 5 speed auto.. oh im talking about rwkw

Watch this space Iv got a workshop who deals in those quafie LSDs I posted about earlier getting back to me on a price next week hopefully. I will be hooking up a 50/70 shot of NOS once I have a diff that will actually get the power to the ground Found some webpage on google late one night with some guys auto 4 door G35 pulling a 12.9 with nothing more than a catback + a 75 shot. He was using stock spark plugs as well

id give option1 a call im pretty sure they had a 1/2 cut or were wrecking a V35 coupe not so long ago

Oh BTW im on the Gold Coast and get Trevor from Brake distributors of Australia "BDA motorsport" to do the work on my brakes free plug for him

I didn’t go slotted on the rear for a few reasons 1. The guy who dose my brakes wasn’t able to get any slotted discs for a week and my rears "back left in particular" were shagged due to the pads being worn out and having metal on metal run groves in the discs 2. 70% of the hard work is done by the fronts 3. Slotting doesn’t actually do that much, its more about helping gasses from the pad escape and most new pads don’t have that problem 4. A better pad will have a much more noticeable difference than a slotted/drilled disc So with that in mind and the new rear pads being ceramic = handles heat better. I didn’t see the need for slotted on the rear I didint shop around with the pads price, I didint have the time to and could not be funked. My brakes were only working about 30% of what they were before I went to the track and I needed to get them fixed ASAP Anyhow I ended up paying $277 for the DS2500 pads for the front $150 for the Hawks on the rear I have used DS2500 pads on my old 180sx in the past which had R33 4 pot calipers/discs on the front. Compared to the 1st set of pads which were probally OEM nissan ones despite the brakes being fairly large given the weight of the car. I had fade after only 2 laps, after I changed to the DS2500 I could go the whole session 6 hot laps and not have any problems. There is a sweet spot but when it comes to pads, if you fit pads that are too heat orieanted then they dont work as well when they are cold. The DS2500 for me work fine when cold but get better when theres some heat in them

I did just the same thing @ QR about 2 weeks ago except I managed to crack my RDA slotted discs at the front as well Just replaced with DBA 4000 slotted up front with Ferodo DS2500 pads Using DBA street series blank discs on the back with Hawk ceramic pads Also did a fluid flush and replaced with Motul 600 fluid Bring on the next wednesday arvo sprint!