180 wanabe

I did just the same thing @ QR about 2 weeks ago except I managed to crack my RDA slotted discs at the front as well Just replaced with DBA 4000 slotted up front with Ferodo DS2500 pads Using DBA street series blank discs on the back with Hawk ceramic pads Also did a fluid flush and replaced with Motul 600 fluid Bring on the next wednesday arvo sprint!

Thanks for the info Blistc

So as i have no plans on drifting my V35 but instead using it for grip around the track would it be any good? anything has to be better than the open POS!

Well as I have posted before I have been looking at pissing off the open diff in my V35 auto for quite some time The most obvious solution would be to swap out the diff with that of an Auto 350z, the problem with that however is there aren’t all that many 2nd hand 350z auto diffs getting around and not that many 350zs @ the wreckers Infact I called up a wrecker in Sydney who had a 350z and he wanted $1200 for the diff which seemed rather steep given that it was 2nd hand and the stock Viscous diff tends to loose its effectiveness after about 120k from what I have read on the net. Now with the car being my daily driver I didn’t want to go down the path of fitting a noisy clunky 1.5 or 2 way mech diff like I had in my 180sx that chirped the tyres every time i did a tight low speed turn. Then theres having to change the oil in a mech diff almost if not more times than you change the engine oil if you want to keep it in good order. And as I mention earlier the Viscous OEM nissan item isn’t all that much chop after its done 120+k So i was feeling kind of lost in my quest until I discovered the Quaife Helical LSD Put simple its like an open diff but in reverse... it sends more power to the wheel with more grip and less to the wheel with less grip! no noisy clutch plates chattering "if anyone’s owned a car with an older KAZZ diff you'll know what I mean" and no clunks Now I want this because I’m sick of taking off at the lights quickly and either having traction control kick in and kill all the fun or with VDC turned off one of the wheels spin up and not go anywhere fast. I also plan on going to as many Wednesday afternoon sprints as I can @ QR and the open LSD sucked ass constantly spinning the inside wheel and slowing the car down/kicking in the VDC Now the only bad part is not that many people seem to have this diff in Australia and it costs a fair bit 2 rpw.com.au sells the version for 350z that already has the OEM LSD at around $1680 The model we need is QDF10L I found the right one on ebay but the only sellers I can find are based in the US with the diff priced at $1499 US then there’s going to be freight + tax + customs on top before it gets here Yes i know what some of you are saying, I should have just bought a 6 speed V35... at the time however I could not justify the extra 6 to 8k premium on the price compared to what I purchased my auto V for So am I alone or is anyone else interested in getting one of these? heck even for those of you who have a 6 speed with the OEM LSD could benefit by upgrading to this as long as you don’t plan on drifting as I think this diff acts more as a 1 way diff

I ran my hand around the inside of the front wheel and yeah theres bugger all room betwean the tyre and suspension items, so 245 im thinking is as wide as you can go without using spacers to push the wheels out As for the stretched look goes its not so practicale on my car, KU19s have a rim protector but unlike mosots pic my rim protector is behind the lip of the rim, which explains why all my rims are gutterd. Im planning on sending all 4 of them to the repair shop to get freshened up one day when I sort myself out with a set of track rims. However I finaly found my dream LSD which is going to cost me allmost as much as a new set of 19" so they will have to wait

the rears arent so much what im wondering about its more the fronts

Hi guys I currently have 275 35 R19 on the back and 245 40 R19 on the front Im pretty sure my rims are 11" wide as even the 275s seem stretched The reason im asking is that im interested in getting some KU36 from option one and the only 19" size is 285/35/19 Now I dont think going from 275 to 285 is going to give me any problem on the back but Im not to sure about the fronts. My gut feeling is that the front wont have the room for 285s so If thats the case Ill stick another set of KU19s on when they need to be replaced Anyone have any ideas? I guess it will also come down to what offset my wheels are but unfortunately the stickers that are on them with the specs have had all the text worn away and cant be read

How wide are they? 8" ?

When I bought the car it had just been fitted with brand new Kumho KU19 275 x 35 R19 rear 245 x 40 R19 front I'm pretty sure Anyhow iv done 23k since then and the rears are not that far off the ware markers, ill prob get another 2k out of the rears before they need to be replaced. Slightley more ware on the inside but not that much. Fronts dont seem to ware as much they have a bit to go beofre the markers id say at least another 7k to go before I need to replace them. Ware seems to be pretty even on the fronts. Im running stock suspension

Hi guys Im sick of the open diff in the Auto V35 skyline and a 350z auto diff would be a direct replacement however it would be LSD rather than open

Sorry to hijack but im also chasing a set of stock 17" or 18" as track rims Someone on the Gold coast/brisbane

Location?

sorry to hijack but dose anyone know if the 5 speed auto comes with a trans cooler?

I must have had a larger set of balls when it came in to corner entry.... hmm cooked brakes road rubber myself putting my faith into the VDC to sort things out if I stuffed up. Id say the only reason he was 1 sec quicker was because of the straights

As per the topic was wondering if I can just go and get some 350z swaybars for the V35 coupe? or are there differences?

Iv got to do something about the POS open diff as well, traction controll was kicking in a lot! so yeah im thinking in the order ill get it done Better pads/fluids/new rear discs Swaybars LSD

Took it easy on the drive to work and when I parked the car turned it off then back on the lights were back to normal hope the stay off when I go to drive home 2nite Def need new discs and pads for the rear will check out some ds2500 pads for the front Also wondering if swaybars will make a noticeable difference who else tracks their v ?

Hi guys Took my V to QR yesterday for the sprints/clubman and had a ball Car surprisingly handled very well for a stock setup and I was only lapping 1 sec slower than a Supercharged 350Z with semi slicks + brembos "although he had different discs and pads" Now for the bad news, my brakes did start to suffer massive fade towards the end of lap 4 which I expected as I didint have high temp pads They managed to hold out until the end of the day so I would have done @ least 25 laps but they did feel rather cooked at the end of the day so much so that the slots in my front discs were now full of pad dust/metal I had new front pads and slotted rotors fitted about 10k ago although the rears @ the same time were looking ok so I left them alone Now when I was almost home I noticed the brake warning light coming on when I was braking although the brakes were still working they didn’t feel anywhere near as good as they did before I went to the track I parked the car @ home and left it overnight I started it up this morning to find that the SLIP and VDC off lights are now always on + the brake warning light comes on whenever I touch the brake pedal I noticed that the brake fluid was @ about 1/2 full im sure it was more like 3/4 full the last time I checked I also noticed that the back left disc was looking particularly worn Id say its time to get new rear discs/pads + a top up for the fluid, Im guessing there might also be some air bubbles in my brake lines as the fluid would only be dot 4 or whatever Nissan put in when I had the front pads/rotors done Im hoping that after replacing the rears and having a bleed done things will go back to normal What do you guys think

surprised the R32 did not pass the V35

WTF is this operation pipedown? what state u in VIC?

I hear what your saying BTW good fake racks cost around 10k+ and more than likley 99.9999999% of the population wont get to see the tissues down the bra. Same goes for the calliper covers and if they do theres no shame in admitting that you weren’t prepared to spend $$$$ on brakes that unless your a track junkie wont do you much better than the stock ones on the road

I hate to admit it but I bought some of the blue endless e-bay covers which looked good, stuck them on with ultra high temp engine gasket/sealant goo and haven’t had any issues in almost a year. Iv had a few people ask me with a rather puzzled look how much my upgrade cost its not untill i tell them there covers and they have a closer look they realise what they are. Now admittedly im not one for rice stickers stupid wings etc but let me give you a real world example of what iv done Theres nothing wrong with the girl in red but id sooner the girl in back even though shes got a fake rack it still looks good to me

Iv decided to take my car to the Wed afternoon sprints on Aug 18th Figured I would post this and see if anyone around Bris/Goldy would be interested in coming I used to take my 180sx to the sprints but havent taken the V to a track yet bar the dragstrip I figured with this being over a month away I'd post it now which would give other people more than enough time to get ready/time off work if you work M - F Also im interested to know if anyone else has taken their V to the sprints and what time they ran? Costs are $119 if you pre pay $149 on the day $20 for a AASA day licence "if you dont have a AASA anual licence" $55 for a AASA Annual licence You will need a Helmet + long pants + long shirt

Ill add that the alternator was completely rebuilt only a few months before I sold the car to Kurt so it should be in near perfect condition still

When I got my car back in Oct 08 55k on the clock it had new rubber but the front rotors were rooted as well with massive lips although the rears seemed ok, also my brake fluid was pretty low which would cause the brake warning light to come on during hard braking or if i was going down a super steep hill. Anyhow bought a new pair of slotted rotors for the front and had new pads fitted + new brake fluid and havent had the warning light come on