180 wanabe

Not my cup of tea but hey its your car feel free to put a big Herro Kitty sticker on the side if you like

I find that the chassis handles pretty well, for the most part I have run 245 on the front and 285 on the back with 19" rims using Federal tyres which whilst not the most expensive seem to hold the road just as well as the Kumo KU19's I had on before. Kicking the tail out for me is predictable although I noticed its a lot easier to do with 245 compliance rubber on the back combined with the transgo shift kit

I would say doing an ECU reset would be enough to sort out any leaning issues. Its not like your slapping a super/turbo charger on the car thats going to boosting a significant amount of extra air through the engine requiring a significant amount of extra fuel to be added to the mixture

Its a bit of an ask, especially when the the GTR runs a 3.8L engine which makes less power

http://www.carsales.com.au/news/2012/prestige-and-luxury/infiniti/infiniti-confirms-m5-rival-34250

G35 window motors are the same, when your ordering do not forget that the drivers side in the US is our passenger side

Get yourself a set of R compound semi slicks like the Toyo R888 GG they will take more time off your laps than a different set of coilovers

Looked into the upgrade options but cant be stuffed to spend more money on the car especially with the prices V35s are selling for now Pretty sure the Transgo kit was the last mod for the car

Just rda slotted, I have cracked dba 4000 heat treated ones in the past

I found that the last time I had discs machined they worked fine on the street but were rubbish on the track just didn't seem to work as well oh and one of them cracked...

Started to hear a grinding noise from the front left when I hit the breaks on my way home for work today I suspected that the pads must have been on the ware markers or at least the front left one was, not much of a surprise as they had done 20,000k plus 3 track days Anyhow I babied the car home as soon as I noticed the noise thought I may as well jack the car up and pull the wheel off to have a look at what the pads were like Pads looked like they needed to be replaced still had some meat left on them, then as I stuck my head deeper into the wheel arch to check out the side of the disc facing the inside of the car I noticed that the surface of the disc looked chewed up I find this all a bit strange as the car had no complaints on the track day and drove around just fine for the last 3 days

I've had cars with open, viscous, 2 way and helical lsds and I'd say the best all rounder is the helical Nothing puts hairs on your chest like going around a large roundabout in the wet with a nice tight 2 way

I was sure I had found something about the diff specs of different V35 cars a couple years back. I know that the old diff in my car was crap and constantly peg legged at the drags/lit up the inside wheel when going around a corner at the track If you can find an auto v35 that can throw down 2 black lines at the same time with the stock diff ill take my hat off to it who knows maybe a factory option, either way viscous sucks balls

Have never been in limp mode cars been to 9 or so track days with around 20+ laps a day Do run a trans cooler, dont think you would call it big but you can see the size in the pic + I run the best bang for buck cooling mod by removing the grill at the track so the car gets max airflow even tho it causes more drag Also note that my tranny is going to be dealing with a lot less power than yours given you make double the power I do!!!

Thought I would post up my thoughts from my last track day on Wednesday @ the QR sprints Previously every track day I have been to in my V35 I have always left the car in D mode with the PWR button pressed as the triptronic mode was far too laggy to be of any use I recently had the transgo shift kit installed and was interested to see what sort of a difference it would make I found that there were some pros and cons when it comes to trying to get your quickest time with the shift kit fitted compared to stock The kit was good in the fact that I could drive the car like a manual in triprtonic mode and actually benefit from some sort of engine braking + the shifts happened for the most part in triptronic mode when I wanted them to unlike how the auto box behaves when its stock I also managed to shave .16 off my best lap time however the improvement is somewhat on the small side that it could be attributed to a number of factors other than the shift kit The negative, although I considered it more fun than negative was that the harder/faster shifts turned the car into a powerslide machine if I wasn't careful or more so if I wanted it to when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. This was with 245 Toyo R888 semi slicks on the back not so good for lap times however I'm half keen to take the car to a Friday night drift session with some stocko 17's on the back given how easy it was to slide with the semi slicks on Don't forget I am running an LSD unlike 99.999% of the other auto V35s out there

Bugger Im after some skid rims would have been interested if you were in QLD

I don't seem to get anyone hitting me up for a run @ the lights lucky you My only encounter has been with a guy who works at the same shopping center as me in an Evo 9 who wanted to have a go LOL surprisingly he didin't pull much on me until it was time to back off due to the 80kph speed limit even he was surprised

Looks tops!

Kirra Automatics on the Gold Coast

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/truth-about-matic-j-55979/ Taken from the above link i saw yet another post about someone being a little nervous about switching to something other than nissan fluid in their auto tranny on a 05+ frontier and i think that for alot of people here nissan atf is a touchy subject and i want to try and eliminate everyone's fears of using something other than nissan fluid or atleast give you a little more knowledge about what it is your putting into your tranny. For starters matic j, this fluid is a semi synthetic JASO 1A spec ATF actually made by "]Castrol and sold to nissan who then puts their name on it and slaps all the dire warnings on everything in their vehicles about it but the fluid is nothing more than"]Castrol Transmax J which castrol made to work in all JASO 1A spec Japanese auto trannys. JASO 1A spec is the main Japanese standard for ATF and this castrol fluid is used by nissan and subaru and is good for use in Toyota T-IV and Type T fluid requiring transmissions. This fluid has also been approved for use in applications that call for Allison C4, Dexron III, and Mercon. Castrol TransmaxJ Product Data Sheet Some more JASO 1A spec equivalents to this fluid are Pennzoil ATF-J and IDEMITSU ATF HP which is the fluid used in Japan for our trannys There are also plenty of Universal ATFs that can be used and what makes these so universal is that they are actually just fully synthetic ATFs that are made to JASO 1A spec which you have see above that JASO 1A spec fluids have been aproved for use in Dexron III, Mercon, Allison, and is suitable in toyota t-IV and type T along with many other trannys from many other companies. The Japanese standard of JASO 1A spec actually far exceeds the standards of most other ATFs that manufactures require for their trannys which pretty much makes anything that is made up to JASO 1A spec a universal ATF so don't let yourself get turned off when you go to amsoil's website and look at the Universal ATF and see a massive list of compatible applications, when you look at this list and wonder "how does this fluid work in all these applications" its because the Japanese standard of JASO 1A spec is far superior to fluids of any of these other applications to date. once again the best of the best comes from japan! There are however some applications that JASO 1A spec fluids do not work in and most Universal ATFs are not recommended in or have not been fully tested in like Ford Type-F, Dexron VI, and any CVT tranny a few universal ATFs that you can breath easy about switching to now are Amsoil ATF, Motul ATF-1A, Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF, Amalie Universal Synthetic ATF to just name off a few that i can think of off the top of my head. i hope this little write up will help shed some light on the somewhat touchy subject of ATF and maybe help any of you that are kind of on the fence make a decision about what you which to run when the time comes for tranny service on your 5 speed auto frontier. Thanks for Reading

Just did the ECU reset, made a huge difference 1st gear now holds all the way to 6500rpm at WOT and chirps into 2nd rather than short shifting at 6000rpm like it was before When cruising at 100kph in D mode and then giving the car WOT before the reset the car would pick up the revs by about 500 for a second or so and then thump into 3rd gear. I still get the second or so delay but now it changes down to 3rd without the thump most of the time Much happier now

Yeah running a tranny cooler, shifts from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th are fantastic and that's all ill be using on the track

Just took the car out on the road and did the manual change from 1st to 2nd at around 4500rpm and got a little chirp hurray. I'm guessing a couple reasons why I wasent getting the rather loud chirps that you hear on YouTube vids might be to do with running a LSD in the auto rather than the stock open diff plus I'm running 285 rubber

Ok I'll give that a go a bit later on my lunch break. So just to confirm, the shift from 1st to 2nd should pretty much be the fastest/firmest shift of all the shifts

And when I say softer shift it feels quicker than the stock shift from 1st to 2nd but its no where near as quick as the shift from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th