180 wanabe

Ok can someone please tell me what rpm the box is supposed to shift at when in D with the power button pressed at full throttle when takin off from a stop like I keep saying mines shifting from 1st to 2nd at 6000rpm not 6500 If this is normal cool if not please let me know so I can call up the shop and complain that it's short shifting along with a softer shift from 1st to 2nd

No chirp with the change from 1st to 2nd the way it changes from 2d to 3rd you would think it was going to chirp Will look into doing an ECU reset see if that helps Anyone got one of these kits in their car on the Gold Coast/Brisbane? Oh also what rpm is your car shifting from 1st to 2nd when in full auto with the power button pushed?

I did question the guy about using his oil rather than nulon/matic j The response went something along the line of that he had worked on a few of the re5 boxes out of pathfinders without any issues using the shops synthetic oil I apart from the shift from 1st to 2nd not being as quick as I was expecting Im happy with how fast the box changes gears with all the other shifts 2nd to 3rd seems to be the quickest shift of the lot If I drive the car like I would normally around town without getting up it everything shifts pretty much the same as it did before the kit got intstalled The next track day I go to on 7th November will be the real test, most of the shifts are from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th

$88 per hour x 4 hours labor = $352 $460 for the kit yes I know I could have got it for $300 but I'd sooner buy it from shop incase issues come up $160 for the shops synthetic oil not exactly a cheep job Thing is I was really expecting the shift from 1st to 2nd to be a lot harsher/quicker like the shift from 2nd t 3rd and 3rd to 4th Cant remember if my car wold go all the way to redline in D when in 1st gear i might be noticing that its shifting at 6000 now because I'm paying attention to it. Doesn't seem to bang into any gears but it can clunk a little if you plant the gas pedal and the box drops down a gear or 2 and then you take your foot off the gas at say 5000 and then the box will drop the revs for a couple of seconds and then find a gear and it clunks a bit when it seems to engage it

Hi guys Finally got a transgo shift kit installed in my car today Got the local auto gearbox shop to do the install, guy who runs the shop/did the install has been rebuilding boxes for 30 years or so I decided to get the local shop to supply the kit oil filters etc so if something went wrong I would not be chasing someone on ebay Anyhow I dropped the car off yesterday but was not able to drive it home in the arvo as the kit the shop supplied was missing a spring so they had to get another kit sent out Picked up the car this afternoon after a new complete kit was sent out to the shop have taken the car for a drive and noticed a few things and just wanted to check that this is how the transgo kit is supposed to behave In full auto D mode with the power button pushed down from a stop with the gas peddle mashed the car will take off as per usual but it shifts at 6000 from 1st to 2nd gear, the shift feels a bit faster but no where near as fast as the change from 2nd to 3rd gear I haven't have a chance to see if the car will shift at the redline in full auto d mode from 2nd to 3rd gear yet In manual mode the shift from 1st to 2nd happens at whatever revs i choose as its supposed to but feels no where near as fast as the change from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th any ideas? did the shop stuff up the install?

What oil are people using when having the kit fitted? I gave the local gearbox shop close to my work which a couple mates who have had commo boxes rebuilt recommend a call. They can supply the shift kit for $460 as opposed to the $300 ish via ebay etc The guy I spoke to said he had rebuilt a couple of boxes out of pathfinders which are the same RE5R05A box the 350z/V35 have. When I asked what oil he used he replied that he uses a synthetic oil he gets in bulk from Singapore which would cost me $7.5 per L and has had no issues with the RE5R05A boxes he has used it on..... This is a shop which has been around for 10+ years so id hope he is right

Thats an awesome deal I know who I'm ringing when I end up cracking my next rotor

Thanks for your input guys, I'll pass on the braided lines and just get the fluid flushed. Its been close to 2 years since I had it flushed/changed using Dot 5.1 so I'm sure its overdue for a flush/change Anyone have any recommendations for getting the transgo kit installed in Brisbane/Gold Coast? If not a couple of mates have had their auto commowhore gearboxes rebuilt by a local shop on the Gold Coast and have said nothing but good things so I might end up giving them a call to see if they have experience/how much they want to install the kit I messaged Jetwreck but haven't got any reply yet about the current going rate on buying a kit. I'm sure he has read the message might just take a few days to get around to me. Otherwise if its just a straight purchase of Ebay from the US I can always just go and do that myself. I've had a look already and cant believe the difference between getting one straight from the US vs Australia Option one is to get raped by these guys in sydney http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TransGo-Stage-2-Shift-Kit-RE5R05A-Auto-Transmission-/350313868972?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5190556eac#ht_2854wt_906 who want $633.50 inc postage Or I could buy if from these guys in the US http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TITAN-ARMADA-RE5R05A-NISSAN-AUTOMATIC-5-SPD-H-D-HI-PERF-REPROGRAMMER-RWD-4WD-/330741151970?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d01b578e2#ht_2199wt_1163 for around $296 inc postage with the dollars current rate at the time I post this As someone who works in retail I'm all about buying things from the local guy to keep jobs/money in the country but at double the price and then some the local guy can go suck a big one

I would love a set of Brembos and was looking into the idea a year or so back, problem was I could not find a set at a decent price, just had a look and found these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-V35-Skyline-Brembo-Brake-Calipers-Set-4-Front-Rear-Parts-Wrecking-/290767489551?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b317ca0f#ht_1061wt_1397 Still asking a bit much What did you end up paying for yours?

I have noticed a couple of threads that have popped up recently discussing the transgo shift kit Given that I have just got back into doing track days after a break for the last year and a half I am seriously considering getting one of these as everyone raves about how much of an improvement they make when it comes to shift times particularly when using triptronic. I'm pretty sure I can shave a bit more off my lap times if the auto box changed faster. I have started to play with the triptronic around a couple of corners/hairpin where the box cant make its mind up if it wants to be in 2nd or 3rd gear but the lag in the changes makes this kind of futile I'm on the Gold Coast and would be willing to drive to Brisbane to get this done I've noticed a couple members who do installs but it seems they are based in Melb/Syd Any advice or anyone know where I can go to get one supplied and fitted in QLD? Also on a side note has anyone upgraded their brake lines who has actually done track days before and after getting them fitted? I've decided for the moment that I'm going to stick it out with the poverty spec non brembos as the QFM A1RM pads seem to be working well enough for a street/track pad. I have however noticed that my brake pedal gets pretty spongy once the brakes heat up at the track Its probably been 2 years since I had the fluid changed “dot 5.1” so a full flush of the system +new fluid should help somewhat I just keep reading mixed reports about weather they actually do work see the link below http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Braided-Brake-Lines/A_2679/article.html

+ 1 for the A1RM Use these on the front of my V35, work perfectly when cold and keep on working when they get hot As good as the Ferodo DS2500 which I have also used in the past without the price If you ever think that there is even a slim chance that you may take your car to the track get the A1RM you wont be sorry

Even if you turn off VDC your going to have a hard time doing a burnout in an auto V35 Reason being is as a safety feature When you press the accelerator and the break pedal at the same time, the the engine has its power cut to about 20%. Why you ask? well remember not so long ago all those people in Toyotas in the US who had their cars accelerator jam and then ended up driving along at 100mph+ to their deaths as they were too stupid to turn the key to the off position or move the gear stick into neutral. Most cars these days have engines powerful enough to overpower the brakes and as the brakes get hotter unless your running high temp pads the less they work. The whole idea is that if your pedal gets jammed as soon as you press the break pedal the engine has its power reduced to a level that the brakes are able to deal with and slow the car down Now you wonder how dose one bypass this in order to do a burnout? Pull off the fuse box kick panel in the car and remove the brake light fuse, now this may take some trial and error if you cant read Japanese Once the fuse is removed the car wont know that you are pressing the break pedal and allow 100% of the cars power to be used As you may notice by my avatar I may have had some experience doing this myself

On a cold start 1st thing in the morning mine will fire up to 2000 rpm and then drop straight down to 1500 rpm, in gear it will be idling around 1000rpm, the click you guys are taking about is a common thing with V35s just do a search on it

Hey guys I just realized that I will be going to trance wars on Friday night which means I wont be waking up until somewhere around midday on Saturday so Im sorry but I wont be able to come

They don't sound like CD's, pretty ordinary sound quality especially when you don't have an FM expander which limits what stations you can use I found that one of those old school tape adapters that plugs into your 3.5m jack on whatever your device is gives practically the same sound quality as if you were using an AUX input. Will save you a bit of dosh as well as they cost less than the FM transmitter

Will see you guys at BP yatala

Be prepared to get ripped $1000 for a stock 350z from a wrecker also i dont think the 250gt is the same diff as the vq35 equipped car

Thanks for the post Nismo I found niss4x4 last night didn't know they had V35's until I had a look just then. I paid for and asked them to send me the short stub axle out of one of the 350zs at about 4pm today. Hopefully they haven't pulled it out of the 350 as I'm still not 100% sure if its even the part that I need Have quickly shot them an e-mail and asked them to pull out the shorter stub axle from one of the VQ35 powered V35s instead. Will give them a call in the morning to follow up the e-mail I sent In other news I got a call today from my mother telling me that the auto box in her S13 had gone BOOM! whilst driving 500m away from her house. The workshop she went to wanted $1500 to replace it what a joke! 2nd hand auto SR boxes go for free to $500

As some of you may know I've been having lots of fun with my car lately To get my car back on the road I need a replacement stub axle, to be precise I need the shorter of the 2 stub axles, anyone got one I could buy or know where I could get one as I'm not having any luck with the wreckers that I have called so far I'm sightly baffled as to how I have ended up in this situation to begin with Now to recap why I am baffled My cars an auto V35 which "should" have been running an open diff just like every other V35 auto out there. Im pretty sure that my old diff was an open one because of the way it behaved around corners and how it seemed to light up one of my rear tyres when I took off quickly from a standstill With that in mind I ordered a Quaife diff that was suited to the US base spec 350z which runs an open diff just like my car or so I thought When the diff arrived and the install went ahead I ran into a problem where the longer stub axle was too long to fit into the new Quaife center and after searching the net came across Quaifs own solution of chopping off part of the longer axle to make it fit. Which up until now has worked fine With more research it seems that the US base spec 350z which runs an open diff uses 2 equal length stub axles that fit perfectly into the quaife diff that I ordered to be a drop in replacement The VLSD models run 2 different length stub axles in which case you order the diff for the VLSD equipped car and it bolts right up with the different length axles or you get the diff for the open diff 350z and do the chop on the longer stub axle like I ended up doing or you buy a shorter stub axle from a open diff 350z and replace the longer stub axle with the shorter one Whats got me scratching my head is why has my auto V35 got the same stub axles as a VLSD equipped car ? Anyone else got an auto V35 and pulled out the diff and noticed what the stub axle situation is?

Pretty close except I ordered the diff for the US poverty spec 350z which has an open diff so in theory it should have just bolted in given my car is an auto and also runs an open dif from the factory. However for one reason or another my drop in replacement needed to have the right stub axle chopped down as it was too long. After scouring the net it seemed to be a pretty normal thing that a lot of people had ran into. From what I can make out it looks like the axle has "poped" out when the install was happening the better option would have been to get a axle from a 350z wreck and use it instead Anyhow over the next few days i'll find out one way or another. I told the diff shop about the install and the chop down/350z axle etc Its been about 30k after the install happened with a few track days and a couple of large skids laid down

well cars been dropped off at Aussie Diffs in Currumbin, now to wait n see

Found the culprit Jacked the car up by the diff turned on the engine put into drive and tailshaft is moving which means gearbox is ok - shame about the times its had to grind when going into park though :S checked out the diff and found the culprit

Ok so after a day of thinking and talking to a couple of customer at work who were mechanics im thinking that the problem may be related to my diff install. I had to get one of the stub axles chopped down when the new diff center was installed. I have the day off work tomorrow so I will jack the car up from the diff and put jack stands under the rear to see if the tail shaft is moving when the car is in gear. If it is then I know that the box is ok the problem is with the diff.

No clunks or bangs, the car just smoothly disengage into no gear at all was doing 100 on the hwy cruising along just noticed the revs rise and the car slowing down. Only noises are when i go to put it into park after I have tried drive and reverse is a mechanical grinding noise like gears grinding for 1 second then it's silent