180 wanabe

What happened Pete ?

This looks like what you need if your going to put in aftermarket seats http://www.nismoshop.com/servlet/the-276/NISMO-DUMMY-SEAT-HARNESS/Detail

Iv been wanting to get a bride or similar seat for my car but the whole airbag thing kind of put me off it. Whats the deal with the airbags when you pull out stock seats?

Better to pay $540 once than $300ish twice in the case of cheapo ones failing. Particually given I like to do track days who know what sort of damage could happen if one let go @ 160kph... Allready had one bad expierence with a cheep radiator that arrived so bowed that it wasent even worth fitting

unless its something major just do it yourself if its just an oil change! seriously....

Actually had to head home, going out on the cruze was kind of random. Only went out to say hi to you guys and to try and talk you into coming out to a track day Ill post up when Im going to the next one so hopefully you guys will come along, in the mean time I need to have my plenum spacer + new spark plugs fitted and find a decent set of camber arms

Bit dissapointing that being a part for the G35/350Z that the ball joint didint fit was keen on the ichiba ones but I found a post on a 350z site where a member had one of them fail after 2 days, another site said that the welds were poor and they only put them on the car when they had been rewelded Allmost makes me want to buy some cusco ones as youd think they would be top qualiaty but cant find any on e-bay wonder of anyone local can get them

what exactly was the issue with the wrong sizes?

Im guessing you have godspeed camber arms? straight from e-bay?

found that but wasent sure how to do the conversion till I worked this out in google http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLG,GGLG:2005-20,GGLG:en&q=8+kg%2Fmm+in+lbs%2Fin#sclient=psy&hl=en&rls=GGLG%2CGGLG:2005-20%2CGGLG%3Aen&q=10+kg%2Fmm+in+lbs%2Fin&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&fp=fd0f73886609171d

Hi guys I need to do something about the camber on the front of my car, Its fine for daily driving being 0 and -.05 left and right However my track rubber is wearing excessively on the left side of the car particularly the outside of the left side tyres. This is due QR having more high speed right hand turns than left. The easy option would just be to swap the left side to the right side but Toyo R888s are directional I was thinking of buying some front camber arms which would set me back around $300 to $500 delivered with the idea of dialling in more camber for the track day and then setting back to normal when back home The other option is to lash out and buy some coilovers that have camber tops such as these BC ones. Thing is Im not sure if the pic is of the actuall coilovers I would get or if its a generic one. Anyone out there have coilovers with cambertops on their V? just so I know that it can be done The other question is what are the stock spring rates for the coupe? I think I found a page on the web that said the rates were 4.5kg? That said my car is my daily and whilst I didn’t care so much running stiff coils in my 180sx the skyline however is a different car

Running a Nismo, although not sure if its from the Y pipe back or cat back anyway sounds good but theres a little bit of rasp when its cold. Dont think id want it much louder but it dosent drone @ 100kph which is good

Never bothered with these before, my 180sx busted its engine mounts when it was throwing out 308rwkw but a set of nismo ones fixed that doubt the VQ35 in its NA form is going to give the stock mounts any problems

Wondering about how many Ks what went wrong for those of you who have been unlucky enough for one of the above or something else to go bust on you, would be interesting to see if this is a age of the part or an amount of use "ks" related thing. As my car has somewhat higher ks than other V35s out there yet im only starting to have issues now The reason Im asking is because my car now has 84k, I purchased it with 50k. Up until a couple of weeks ago I had never had a problem with the car until the drivers side window motor decided to give up Sure enough as some of you may have read I ended up fixing the problem by cleaning the motor and putting everything back together Now the last couple of days I have noticed that my drivers side door has not been locking/unlocking all the time when using the remote on the key I pulled the door apart again today to see if any of the lock cables had come undone but everything was in its place Iv read up on the net and again like the window this seems to be yet another common problem for G35/V35s

I have randomly decided to come Might try and talk some of you into coming out to some QR sprints sessions

What aftermarket front camber arms did you install? Been thinking of getting a set for the front of my car as Queensland raceway has lots of high speed right hand turns which cause the tyres on the left side of my car to ware excessivley on the outside. Dialing in some camber would even out the treadware

Guess im just that lucky, will b interesting to see how long it lasts. Got the new one on order anyway

Its not all that hard, check out the step by step guide in the link that I posted Im by no means savvy when it comes to pulling cars apart but if youv got an afternoon off, some cotton bud tips and some metho/brake cleaner youv got nothing to loose by cleaning the old motor. If your lucky it will come back to life for you. Iv still got the new motor coming as I dont know how much life a revived old one will have. In the meantime I can @ least drive my car without the hassel of having the window glass being too high to close the door unless someone helps from the outside. I dont think you will need a regulator Oh and BTW for anyone else reading. My window started to go on the fritz about 2 weeks before it completley died "as in would work sometimes and then other times not at all" so be ready if this is happening to you now On a side note the revived motor now goes up and down faster than the live passanger side

Hi guys My drivers side power window motor packed it in last week Window was all the way up which I guess was good only bad thing is closing the door had to be done from outside the car as the glass is too high to close the door without it scraping the plastic trim Anyhow I called up the local nissan dealer who wanted $600 RRP or $510 trade I promptly went on ebay and bought a new motor for $179 + 23 postage I had a look on google and found a good DIY guide on how to change the window motor at G35 driver here Problem with buying stuff from the states is that it takes at least a week to get here I decided to try the DIY guide and clean the motor with some brake cleaner and some cotton bud tips After about 3 hours... "please note that im not mechanically minded, should take anyone with 1/2 an idea no more than 1 1/2 to 2" I had the motor out, cleaned up and everything back together working! When the new motor comes from the states ill hold onto it until the cleaned up one gives up again

I hope your compliance workshop actually changed the oil.... Im pretty sure that the one who did my car didint drop the oil

I know my V35 coupe has one fitted from the factory

You could use regular ulp if you wanted to, im sure the ecu would just retard the timing to compensate. Iv run 95 with no problems in the past, although I normaly put in 98. I have also put in 98E10 out of desperation once and the car ran fine on that

They did make the car a bit stiffer... but it was nothing compared to the change in stiffness I noticed when going whiteline swaybars in my S13 Have them set on soft front and med on the read, any stiffer on the front and I think understeer would become a pain in the ass The diff has made the car a lot more fun to drive, going around corners in the wet has become a pleasure rather than a pain! also no more lighting up one wheel when taking off at the lights Havent been to a dry track day yet with the new diff but when taking it somewhat easy in the wet I was lapping what I what I used to lap in the dry when giving it everything I had, Im hopeing for a 1 to 2 second improvement in times around the QR sprint track in 2011

Had whiteline swaybars fitted front and back on my V35, didint notice a huge difference in body roll with the stock springs/shocks I did find that the VDC would kick in earlier than it used to when going around corners with a bit of pace

I use 19" as my street rims and 18" as my track