180 wanabe

in all seriousness I did not know the melting point of PVC was 80 deg this is the reason I ask these questions on here before even considoring to do them for real I did also mentio that this was a rather crazy Idea as well in the titel fcruz3r prehaps about as good as using duct tape as bunji jump rope

Allready done and to tell the truth I dont think they did all that much, car understeered more even with the front on the softest setting caused VDC to go crazy even when I wasent understeering. So I ditched the VDC and bought some track rims with Toyo R888s which made a big difference

Hey just wondering for those of you who actually take your car to the track... was there much of a difference in your lap times before and after getting coilovers VS stock? I need to do something about the camber on the front of my car and was thinking about buying some camber arms so I can dial in some more neg camber such as these Godspeed front camber arms At the same time however if a set of coilovers make "that" much of a difference and the BC racing ones seem to have camber tops for the front it may be worth getting them. The price for them seems to be around the $1600 mark for a set however im happy enough with the stock suspension at the moment

Thanks Pete looks like there about $90US + $45 postage through USPS

1st up what size pipe is the z tube? Yes I know I could simply go measure the diamater of the std V35 intake but its 12am and I cant be bothered to pull off my airbox etc 2nd I was thinking about simply going to bunnings and picking up some plumbers pipe in whatever size the z tube is and then cutting them to size the only hard part of this will be the connecting the breather/oil vapor line to the new PVC tube, but I do have a catch can left over from my 180sx that I can probaly put to good use

Might be easier to wave the white flag and drop in the 5 speed auto or the 6 speed manual Ull probaly get better resale with any trans other than the CVT in the car!

Track spec

Well guys pulling out the grill helped the car stay cool today. Outside temp was the same as the last time I did my sprints at the track however the extra airflow managed to keep the car cool enough to keep the temp needel in the normal position So for anyone who finds themselves overheating at the track, do your car a favor and ditch the grill to get more fresh air to the radiator

I had RDA with stocko pads however after a trip to the track the pads were gone "were replaced by nissan only 15k before the track day" and the RDAs cracked now using DBA4000 slotted/heat treated with Ferodo DS2500 on the front, DBA blanks on the rear with Hawk ceramic pads also had my fluid flushed with MOTUL RBF 600 FACTORY LINE, using stock calipers. Iv had no issues with this set up on the street. They work great on the track "much better pedal feel/no fade" however make sure you turn VDC off otherwise you will end up chewing the front left disc if your doing lots of high speed right hand turns and the reverse if your doing high speed left hand turns at the track The sprint sessions I do at Queensland raceway are only 5 or 6 laps so the stocko calipers do the job just fine with the better pads/discs. However if I was doing more than 10 laps there may be a need to upgrade as I think eventualy the heat would get too much for the non brembo sized discs/calipers

Had some covers on my car were fine for daily driving one trip to the track caused them to melt lol so I pulled them off About RDA rotors I had them on my car but they cracked on me after one track day Ferodo DS2500 pads FTW however be carefull with them if you have VDC on at the track as they can chew through a rotor if VDC keeps grabbing one of your discs

Hi guys As some of you know from my previous post i have ordered a new 50mm radiator as my car was overheating on the track last time I took it and the weather is only going to get hotter coming into summer Now the rad hasent arrived yet and I paid for it 2 weeks ago which sucks but I have a track day on this sat and dont want to skip it as im busting to try the new semi slicks I got for the car Was wondering if pulling out the grill would make much of a difference to the cooling on the track? Only negarives I can think of is if I drive into a swarm of bugs or a rock gets flicked up

Meh if I want to win races @ the lights I take the bike

No one has ever tried to race me at the lights... prob cus 1/2 the people who randomly come up and ask about the car think its a R35 LOL

cheers

Nice pic of the car on a overcast day which made the silver look rather nice other pics are of the new track rims with toyo R888s 245/40 R18 on 18 x 9.5 + 20 track rims

What a bitch, I would have wanted to pull out all here teeth with a claw hammer Old Boy style if that happend to me. Teach her for being unlicenced and uninsured...

Doh! Visited my local workshop guy and got him to order a set Thanks for the offer though

Some info here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/694281/13 and some replacement covers here http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/produ...roducts_id=3576

VQ35DE uses a timing chain, whoever told you its a belt needs to lay off the grass. Manual can just use any good brand of oil, its the 8 speed auto CVT in the 4 door that needs the special $1000 oil Seals? the only thing which is a known issue seal wise with the VQ35DE is from memory oil can leak around the spark plug on the left bank, I think some sort of gasket/seal needs to get replaced. Don’t think this is too much of a major job just an inconvenience you may discover when changing the spark plugs

Need to get my belts changed ASAP as they are cracked and the air con one even has a chunk out of it Called up the local nissan dealer on the gold coast "Von Bibra" and was quoted $50 for one and $47 for the other.... They also wanted $300 for a Z tube can get OEM nissan ones on ebay here for $53 US including postage

Now that I think about it the alternator and the power steering both use the same belt so sounds 99% like the belts busted or poped off

the only things I think that can kill your power steering all together are 1. Belts poped off or broken 2. no power steer oil in your system more than likley option 1 if you havent changed your belts allready speaking of which my cars go 80k on the clock and the belts are looking cracked. the AC one even has a chunk out of it so im getting new ones when I get my larger radiator installed in the next week or so

Well iv got a set of toyo R888s in 245 40 R18 on the way went round to the workshop I had the swaybars installed and they still had my stock ones so I picked them back up Ill leave the whitelines in for the moment and see how the car goes with with the semi slicks on I'll get a wheel alignment done before the next track day and try to get as much neg camber as I can on the front which from what I have read on the net is about -1.5 deg max with stock suspension Ill also get the toe checked out

Fair few Vs over in WA

My avg is 8.8 which is about right with a mixture of hwy/city driving Seems to be spot on as it usualy drops down to 8.7 after a hard day at the track and is back to 8.8 a couple days later