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Fly_With_Sky

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Everything posted by Fly_With_Sky

  1. yeha putting it in neutral takes the strain of the engine so thats why its all good there. When i take my car for a service and little bit of modifying very soon i will get my mechanic to look into why my car sometimes feels like it will stall and every now and then, and fix the problem for good.
  2. regap your plugs to 0.8mm and it should get rid of your car stuttering, unless the coil pack is screwed. The stall is probably due to the bov, is that stealth fx the one with both atmospheric and plumback ability? If it was at the atmospheric position then thats probably why it stalled. Do a search as these problems have been covered before.
  3. if you think its sluggish, put her on the dyno
  4. to run a flat 12 and maybe more you will need a fair bit of power to get it. Look at that r34 HPI were building a while ago, it had like 290rwkw and it ran 11.99 or something. However, driving ability has a big part to play as well. If you want an r33gtst keep std turbo you can get a high 12 like some on these forums, and if that doesnt do it for you, you can always do more. With the 250rwkw, that is agreed point if you will to start changing some internals so you dont risk engine damage. However, people have gotten well over that mark on pretty much std internals, look at the JMS r33, over 300rwkw.
  5. i'd reckon around 300rwkw to get a flat 12. Would cost a bit to get there i would think. need all the things you have on the rex plus internal work as 250rwkw is about the the limit on r33gtst's. Gearbox should be ok i would think as they are essentially the same as the GTR 5 speeds. Have you considered maybe an r32 GTR or perhaps even an R33 GTR if money allows as i have seen some pretty basic mods on r33 gtr get mid 12's quite easily and regularly (driving would be a factor as well).
  6. i thought the s15 injectors were 440cc also. Happy to be proven wrong however.
  7. i have Monza Super Sequential blow off valve for sale. I also have an adaptor for it for an r33. It has never been used and i bought it at the start of the year. Initially got it for the rice factor but grew out of that as standard bov is all i need currently. (i only have an auto) Never been used so is just like when i got it, only difference is that the box has been opened a few times. Price is $150 (negotiable) for both the bov and adaptor. $120 for bov only. Live in wollongong, NSW.
  8. yeh i suppose, might as well put in a bigger oil cooler just to make sure when i get to that stage and to keep auto longevity and reliability.
  9. yeh do a search as it could be somehting like a dirty afm to the idle control valve thingy malfunctioning. there is a heap of info on it as i have recently searched some of it myself. Just a quick question, do you get compressor surge when taking you foot off the acclerator as my r33 auto started to do what you described sometimes as well. If your turbo is going su tu tu tu then my theory is that the afm thinks there is more air than there really so ecu dumps more fuel and car stalls sometiomes because of it.
  10. this thread has been excellent so far as its practicaly told me a lot of what i need to know as my next steps in the car mod saga (when does it stop) is aftermarket management. It looks like an safc II is the go and tune it correctly (for timing issues as well). Also for the oil coolers on the r33 auto for example, what would be their limit (as i changed the one originally on there with a new simialr sized unit). Because if i were to get 190rwkw would the the std oil cooler be enough for long lasting reliability or should i get a larger, better one? Anyone with any experience in this matter as the figure of 190rwkw would be plently for me as i only would go drags every now and then, otherwise its just an everyday road car. Proabably should get a slightly larger fuel pump as well as my car aint getting any newer at those power levels.
  11. are they a different box the r33gts25t OR r34gtt, or are they basically the same? what i am referring to are the stagea boxes
  12. i agree with paulr33, mine never had any problems last summer when there were hot days on stock cooler, ecu and turbo. I have only changed the intercooler out of the three since, and, my opinion BLK R33 GTST is that if you can save up or if you have the money get a front mount. It will run 12psi a sh#tload better than the stock unit.
  13. spotted a black r34 GTR in wollongong today parked adjacent to the Novatel tghis afternoon at 230. didnt ctach the plates though. My god did it look gorgeous, so i turned around and passed it again. Anyone from the gong know who it is as its the first 34 GTR ive seen down here.
  14. yeah its an auto, didnt have any problem today when i took it for a quick drive. Very strange indeed...hopefully it was just a random occurance as oil level is on the H (high) mark.
  15. On friday my r33 gts25t played up a little. When i was driving up a hill, road conditions at the time made me take my foot off the accelerator and then i had to acclerate again. When doing this the car felt a little wierd when applying the gas. (speed was approx. 50km/h). At the top of i hill i stopped in a little car park thing and the car was idling strangely indeed. It was searching for idle and couldnt quite get it right. The revs dropped to 200rpm and then the car stalled. During this the oil gauge dropped between the the 0 and the second bottom line (2). It has never gone so low before, and i have never had an idle problem. I started her up again and gave it a little rev and she gave a little pop out the exhuast. The oil gauge was reading normal again and the car seemed ok once again. However, on the way home when having to stop at traffic lights i felt the idle to be strange again but it didnt fluctuate like the first time. Also, when applying a tiny amount of pressure to the accelerator the revs drop to 400rpm and then the car accelerated normally. Got home and checked oil and everything was fine. A couple of hours later i took it out for another little drive and it seemed ok then after a little while the rpms dropped to 400 when taking off very slowly, then accelerates normally. Also on the way home i swear i saw the oil light go on when braking for an intersection then it was normal again. This idle problem (or oil problem?) has never happened before in my two years of owning the car. Does anyone have any thoughts on what it may be? Would it be the afm?? Will get it checked out if problem persists on tuesday or wednesday when i have time.
  16. my car has been lowered 2 inches front and back. The back sits just above the tyre which is how i want it and the front is a little lower (right on tyre) due to extra weight from engine i assume. I would of liked the front to be a little bit higher now but im too lazy to raise it. If i were going to lower a skyline now i would probably go 1.5inches front and back. so your planning to drop it 50mm, i wouldnt go any lower if i were you but thats just my opinion.
  17. your losing the touch, noooooooo :headspin:
  18. i think it would be nice if people (especially from sydney) who wanted to come down to the gong attend the EVLR34 cruise instead to show respect.
  19. my view is to better to be safe than sorry. Some people run their r33 turbos at 13psi all day every day and get away with it (didnt HPI have someone running their std turbo at 14psi), but, some people dont. My max will be 11psi, no more. besides if tuned well you can get basically the same power running 10psi when others run 12psi.
  20. yeh i own the a black r33 with gtr front bar and standard rear spoiler (low one). I havent been out for a drive on thursday for a very long time and usually only go for a drive through town every now and then. which is your car? so if i see you il give you a wave
  21. yes it stutters sometimes and my mechanic pointed out to me that to eradicate the problem fully he showed my the splitfire coilpack, but to start with il just regap the plugs.
  22. what type of filter was the cold air box for. will it suit a k&n pod?
  23. 2BNVS, we were refferring to the AUTO gearboxes for the r33 not the manual g'box.
  24. wonder how much more you would have got with an aftermarket ecu krzysiu. what would the pros and cons between the 2835 and the 2540??
  25. Yeh i am keeping the standard bov as i dont see any need to change it unless its leaking (which it isn't) thats an impressive power output you have at that boost level, but i didnt think that there were ecu's from uni chip for the r33...guess i was wrong. How is the gearbox hadnling the power, are the gear changes any different from before the uni chip? PM sent about the safc II.
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