Fly_With_Sky

i have a sticker on top of my engine (r33) and it had 68, XXX km on it. Would this mean they changed the timing belt at those km's? I bought my car when it had 77, XXX km on it a few years back. It's on 103, XXX now and when i came up for the 100 000km service my mechanic said the timing belt had already been changed. So i assume that this is what the sticker indicated...

trans coolers are not that expensive, a couple hundred. If you want to have around 240rwkw then the stock auto, even with a better trans cooler, will break eventually. Good auto shops such as MV automatics in adelaide can build you a tough auto box that is capable of handling 300rwkw. Do a search and see what you come up with regarding this. Also, i believe Abo Bob (forum member) has rebuilt his r34 auto tranny, so it would be wise to ask him some questions as i think his power level is around what you're after. As for the power fc, it will work but the thing is there will be no communication between it and the auto ecu (remember these auto's are electronic). Do a search regarding this as well. Some people are running their auto's with powerFC's and say it is fine.

ive seen people run autos on the dyno in D with overdrive off (so basically 3rd gear). Anyway well done on power level. Have you taken to the drag strip?

price drop to $100. A bargain...i dont need it anymore and am sick of looking at it.

price drop

I have a Jaycar Digital Fuel Adjuster and hand controller, and cable for sale. Both items are already built and powers up, so you have saved yourself a couple days labour as well as the obvious money saving. Reason for sale is that i have no need for it as i have decided against a fuel computer. Price is $100 (which includes postage costs). Please PM me if you are interested or have any questions.

the auto's for a r33 are generally pretty cheap. They usually are sold for around the $300 mark i think. Manual conversion would be a lot more expensive (about $3000 so cheaper to sell auto skyline and buy a manual one). If you want something in between those two figures maybe re-build the auto with stronger internals and a new valvebody etc.

east coast suspension is only 45 mins away in kirawee. And they were recommended by sydney kid. I can also recommend them as they put in my camber kit. Have very reasonable prices as well.

damn skyline17, i think your best bet would be to park on the street or possibly buy a sh*tbox runaround car thats not worth much and is also something you dont really car about if something were to happen to it. Or get a couple of witches hats and put a couple in the spaces next to you. Bottom line is some carparks are not for people who actually value their car.

camber kit has been sold. Price drop on DFA.

I had to go to the post office earlier today and went down the road to the local westfield in figtree (it is in wollongong). I was no more than 15 minutes inside the centre when i returned to my car and saw that just behind the back right wheel some idiot scraped his car down the side of mine. Now i usually park as straight as i can right in the middle of the parking spot as i dont want any people to hit my doors with theirs. Now it looks like i have to worry about people not knowing how to reverse out of a spot. Seriously, it is very frustrating. Some drivers must judge the amount of space they have left by saying, "when i hear a thud or a grinding noise i know thats when i have enough room, but what the hell, i'll keep going anyway." Damage isn't as bad as it could of been i suppose. Good thing my uncle is a panel beater and owns his own shop so he can fix it back up at a low price (cost if materials and here is a case of beer sort of thing for your time).

ok thats good. it looks like i have saved a few hundred dollars when it comes time to start chasing the 180rwkw mark

wazz: yes the motor has started leaking near the back. The bolts dont really fit as the should when trying to tighten them back up, hence they are not tight enough (so i used the word warped). And yes i got a bit paranoid and thought i dont want it to start leaking at the front of the motor where it can get on the timing belt. I thought that was clear. Thanks philGTR and cubes, i will do that.

when should we replace the factory sized oil cooler on our automatic skylines is my question. I know to be on the safe side we should imprive it when we up the power to over stock levels. My current power level is only 160rwkw. Will call it a day if i reach around 180rwkw if i finally get around to installing a DFA or SAFC. So i was wondering at that sort of power level is it necessary to upgrade to a bigger oil cooler? The stock oil cooler that originally came with the car was changed a couple of years ago to a slightly larger (but still similar in size) oil cooler. My car also is driven mostly around the city, and doesn;t usually see the freeway too often (not for extended periods too often at least). It is also not used for track days or anything either. Should i change my oil cooler to a bigger item if i reach the 180rwkw mark or should my other one be fine for my driving?

hey guys, my car has developed an oil leak near the back of the motor near where the motor meets the gearbox, and some has got itself on the rubber steering parts in that area as well. Now i would like to fix it asap of course, especially if the terrible happens and the rest of the bottom part of the motor leaks and some gets onto the timing belt and so on. When we has a look at it apparently, some of the bolts and warped themselves and we cant tighten them well enough to stop the leak, and we dont want the bolts threaded. So it looks like it will need some machining down there to fix her up properly. Just wondering if you guys would have a ball park figure on how much this will cost me? Cheers

Item: Jaycar DFA with hand controller and the big connecting cable, and Whiteline Rear camber kit (KCA347) Location:Wollongong, NSW Bought the DFA off another member on this forum who put together both the DFA unit and the hand controller. Therefore item has already been made and also comes with the plug to connect the hand controller and DFA when it comes time to install and tune the unit. Jaycar DFA $165 (including postage) (cheaper if pick up arranged) Camber kit SOLD Contact Details: Via pm

Item: *Rear whiteline camber kit (KCA347) *Stock R33 intercooler (cooler only) Location: Wollongong, NSW Item Condition:Camber kit brand new and wasn't used. Intercooler in decent condition. Reason for Selling: camber kit not needed as one kit provided enough adjustment so second kit is not needed. Intercooler not needed Price and Payment Conditions: camber kit $115 (including postage) intercooler $50 (including postage) Contact Details: via pm

i love any genuine GTR... Although i am biased towards the R34 GTR as i feel its the ultimate (gotta love that MFD, along with the rest of the bits that make it a GTR of course) However, whenever i think the r34 is the king i see a tough example of the the r32 and 33 models...

My car has mesh in front of the cooler. Still gets great air flow whilst stopping the large majority of things that will flick up and damage the cooler. Go with what you want, besides it ain't hard to take the mesh off anyway if its not your thing.

so it is fine to run say bilsteins shocks at the front with say standard springs, and, at the rear have standard springs with standard shocks... I just thought the the different shocks would control the car differently which would not be good. But i am most likely wrong as suspension knowledge isnt a strong attribute for me.

do you have aftermarket springs on the car? Because i was wondering shouldn't you buy shocks that are suited to those springs. If you still have standard srpings then kyb's or go check out the group buy sydney_kid organised. Now my previous paragraph brings me to ask a question. Some bloke my friend knows was changing his front shocks as they were worn out (car is r33 i think) to a set of shocks that suited the lowered springs he had on there. I thought this was a bad idea as the the front and rear shocks are different. Is this a bad thing? I thought it was as it would control the car differently so promptly told my friend he should tell his mate to change the rear shocks as well as they are most likely stuffed also.

i thought for twin turbo cars (ie rb26dett) the spec r was the way to go...

yeh i know, i was just curious if any other places sold them. When i rang one of them they said they had just sold out of my tyre size and said try tempe...

Hi guys I was wondering who sells Maxxis tyres in sydney. Every place i ring have either said: "no sorry we dont sell them and dont know who does" "we dont but try tempe" and then tempe said, "sorry none in the warehouse in your size" So i thought i would get your opinions to help me. It is for a 265/35zr18 tyre. Thanks

pm sent to you sydneykid regarding payment for the camber kits