Booki

Whoops. Updated.

No longer own a 33 GTR Have a bunch of random parts, some are new some are old. Prefer to sell them all together, but will separate if enough interest, not really sure what they are worth so take the lot for $200. Main items for sale are; Stock R33 GTR ECU, my car was a 95 from memory. - $100 Never used RB26 Clear Timing cover - $70 Random Gaskets - they look like exhaust/turbo, thermostat, possibly a rear main seal? and a few that i can't remember what they are for. Pics tell the story for that one. - $50 Self made RWD Switch for the R33 - Worked great, factory blank panel ready to pop in - $10 Brand new handbrake cover, black with blue stitching - $15 Pod filter Cover, Air Dancer? - $10 Stock Cam Gears, used but are in good condition - $50 Aftermarket stereo connectors ready for your new headunit - $2 Pics of everything is here http://imgur.com/a/QN2oC Pickup - Diamond Creek, Victoria. Will post at buyers expense

Thanks for expanding a bit on my post, Im on my phone so can be a bit lazy. If your track oil temps are within normal ranges of daily driving, I am not sure what I would do...

The reason people drop there oil after a track day is due to the amount of heat the oil sustains when being driven on the track. Excessive heat on any engine oil reduces its effective life immensely. If you find yourself in the higher rpms at a track day, you should dump your oil. Also keep this in mind on the steet. Pending how you drive. If you want to know for sure. There are places that analyze your engine oil.

And SOLD! Please Close

Bump to the top...

And wow thats crazy clean, but being 15w-50 isn't that a little thick? 15w seems a bit thick for cold start.

Bit off topic - but what was the cause for the bearing failure?

Interesting, because we have a few other cars in our house hold, and the hoist arms are not "short" enough to reach the factory jacking points, resulting in the pad being a little bit before or after depending how centered the car is. Would it be better to have the pad so the cutout goes into the sill or have it so the sill rests on the outside of the pad? (probs a dumb question now that i read it back)

Do you think that applies to all cars? not just GTR/skylines? And would the pad have to be on that exact spot with the cutouts on the sill? or could you lift it proportionally down either side?

His name is John, Really nice guy and got me a pad with a thicker groove so it did not contact the sill, only the mounting points. Basically mimicked the factory jack. www.johnwards.com.au

Price drop $22,000...

Bump. Rego till 2015 March!

Has to be one of the cleanest GTR's out there. Come on people!

short distance driving is normally considered "Harsh" driving by most manufactures, which in turn calls for more frequent servicing. I would stick with the 6 month, 5,000km. I would not extend it to 10-15k, but thats just me. Im fussy.

Bought another car.....Taking offers. Has to go.

Bought another car....the GTR has to go. $25,000ono.... Note: Speakers have been replaced with stock ones that came with the car, amp has been taken out, headunit back to one that it came with from Japan (random sony headunit, doesn't pickup aus radio).

Thank you for the kind words

Sorry Kelly, sounds like a great car but it's not what I am looking for (manual)

Bump - Make me a offer, I am negotiable!

Don't be shy to make me a offer, Registration coming up in March

Here is the Dyno Graph

It made 295kw, will post up the dyno

Selling my 1995 R33 GTR. I am the second owner in Australia, the first owner was a older extremely fussy mature male who hardly drove the car - yet again I have fallen to the same trap. This car is in absolutely fantastic condition, all the body is original, there is no rust (which is common in skylines), full maintenance history since ownership in Australia (first owners included). A little bit about the car - It is my absolute pride and joy, I am extremely fanatical about this car, so fanatical that I hardly drive it. The car has the original floor mats, but being me I have put floor mats on top of them to keep them looking pristine, Along with those ugly seat covers just to protect the seats. Since my ownership, I have continued on the previous owners maintenance and added some minor mods (really just maintenance in my opinion). I have had the head rebuilt, adjustable cam gears added, replaced the standard turbo's with Garret -7's, Apexi Power FC, splitfire coil packs and put in a small sound system. The car had the head rebuilt and was tuned at Racepace - very reputable workshop. All details are in my maintenance log book. No expense has been spared for the above modification's. Lots of money has been spent to ensure everything was done properly. Otherwise I have kept the car 100% original. I have all the original parts off the car that have been changed - such as; the original ECU, stereo that came with it (doesn't pick up aussie radio), gear stick/hand brake boots. The seats are both in immaculate condition, there are no rips on bolsters as most do with wear and tear, there are no stains. The back seats looks like nobody has ever sat in them (at least during my ownership, lucky I let somebody into the passenger seat). I am yet to see a cleaner/original looking one yet, all in all this would be a fantastic weekend car or store it away as a collectors car. Call/Email/SMS me anytime for any inquiries, This is a genuine sale and I am happy to answer any question's. I know the price is expensive, but this is what I feel my car is worth. It really is in great condition. If you think otherwise, give me a offer. The worst I can say is no. Ben: 0439 034 141 Price: $28,000ono

I just go down to my local AB nuts and bolts, bring my sump plug with me and match up a crush washer. Doesn't have to be copper, long as its a crush type. Copper has a bonus though, as you can anneal it in a pinch. Up to you if you want to bother for 30 cents each from A and B