Booki

Just read the whole thread, all 14 pages. Good read, it helped me realize that 9's is what I should be running due to using my r33 GTR as a daily and not yet chasing insane power figures. That said, I think I remember reading g that 9's do not come with actuators? What ones do you guys reccomend and why?

Fuel pump still available? Location?

Cheers carbon, I know there are a few various types of spacers, but i havn't seen any specific to skylines. I don't believe the above brands make any for skylines?

Hey does anybody know where i can buy some pre made speaker spacers for my R33 GTR? (assume its the same across R32-R33) Having a crack at making them out of some MDF, but wood work was never my fort'e... Unless somebody has some they wanna get rid of? Let me know. Was hoping to finish off my audio install by monday but its not looking that way

Not really? So i can damage something? I'm confused now. What happens if you up the boost? I take it other parts (fuel pump, injectors ect) will not be able to keep up and it will run like ass? Not sure if i am running 1 bar, but i do remember reading. removing the restrictor in the stock solonoid hose will give me 1 bar of boost. If so, then i should be right. Currently running the stockers with the restrictor out. I don't have any boost gauges or after market controllers. Will do as much reading as i can, heaps more to learn especially seeing as others are recommending ecu's other then the PFC units. Think you have sold me on the 9's...It may not give me the most peak power, but will give me the best drive ability as it is my daily car.

Still running stock solonoid (though restrictor is out), and don't plan on changing it till i figure out what ecu path i want to go down. As some of these other ones listed control boost for you. So stock ecu and just replacing turbo's won't do anything bad?

Hmmm, Random thought. Can i just wack on a set of -9's and not change anything else without causing any harm? Then at least i know my stockies won't randomly go boom and it will give me more time to sort my shit out, ask more stupid/noobie questions and decide on the other parts i want.

Hi Joe, few questions. 1. How come people still use Apexi's if there are better ECU's out? I didn't even know there were others out!? 2. Got links to the other ecu's joe? 3. Why would you want to go to E85 (other then emissions)? Isn't it less economical and makes less power? :\

Still trying to decide if i want -5 or -9 turbo's. How is the car revving before you reach full boost? Also, How do you go about fitting bigger injectors in the stock fuel rail? or am i better off getting a bigger fuel rail? (where do i buy the adapters?)

How much more lag are we talking about? vs stock response? As I am happy with stock, if i need the power just down shift?

Whats happened to yours mat? Would you recommend something else?

I will be trying Gulf Western Syn-X 6000 in my GTR once my motul stash runs out

Any reason why you would recommend the -9 instead of the -5? I believe the -5's are capable of more power (if the need arises) and have similar response to stock turbo's if not better?

Can you recommend any sites Mitch?

Looking for more response and a bit less top end, it is my daily after all. Didn't know you could get adapters to fit the std rail, any draw backs on not using a aftermarket fuel rail? Main reason why i wondered about the Z32 vs MAP is because you can normally pickup Z32's and Power FC's used.

Hey all, I have been doing as much reading as i can regarding how to get 350rwkw out of my R33 GTR. At the moment all it has from the previous owner is a exhaust and some HKS Pods. Everything else is stock, including the turbo's. I have done some research and have a bit of a parts list put together by Kudo's, but just wondering what you fellas think...The car is going to be my daily driver. Garrett GT2860R-5s Turbo Install Kit (all required gaskets & studs...) Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit A'PEXi Power FC D-Jetro Greddy Suction Kit To Suit AFM Less Set-Up OR HKS AFM Replacement Bodies (To reuse factory intake set-up) HKS EVC 5 Electronic Boost Controller Walbro 400ltr/hr Intake Fump Pump OR Nismo Fuel Pump (Direct Replacement For Factory Pump, No Modifications Required) Power Enterprise 700cc Fuel Injector Set, Including Full Genuine Nissan Seal Kit Greddy Fuel Rail To Suit Above Injectors (anything above 550cc are 11mm and don't suit the factory rail) Tomei Type-L Fuel Pressure Regulator Do you think its nessasry to go MAP's vs Z32 AFM's? After i install everything, will i even be able to drive to the tuner? I think i remember reading that the D-Jetro doesn't have a base tune installed so the car won't run? Is it hard to install the MAP Sensors? It is a pretty pricey build, anywhere where you fellas think i could save a few pennies? Honestly I am looking for the best performance for the dollar. What ever gives me best bang for buck, that is what i want to go for! Input/comments/feedback much appreciated by all

Would you reccomend Syn X 6000/3000 for a RB26? The 6000 viscosity's are close to what the manual recommends, which is a 7.5w. Currently running Motul 8100 excess and its heaps pricey and hard to find.

I highly recommend the Pioneer unit! Its got 3 pre outs, USB/iPod from the rear so makes it nice and easy to hide it all in the glovebox, along with all the features listed on the website. The "mixtracks" thing is a bit corny, so if you are buying it JUST for that feature, i wouldn't bother. I got it for $230 i think (friend discount a few months back before the sale) so its well worth the price! In my previous car i had a higher end pioneer unit (going back about 4-5 years), it didn't have bluetooth but the screen and design was nicer. Only things i can pick on is; Sometimes my iPod will not be detected and it will just "charge" the ipod. But i think that is a iPod issue as when i restart the ipod it is all good again. And that the little dial to change tracks is a bit lame and feels cheap. Otherwise its one of those get what you pay for things. Good value for money, but if i had to do it all over again, I would look for a little higher end model to have a nicer build quality and hopefully piss off that lame dial thingy to change songs. Otherwise, feature wise. Can't complain, did everything i wanted for a good price! EDIT: And oh, if you are connecting your antenna, don't connect it to the remote wire, otherwise the ugly lookin thing pops up all the time. It gave me the shits looking at it so i disconnected it, Can still pickup the radio fine (pending area), but if you don't mind the antenna popping up wack it in. And also my R33 GTR didn't have a "illumination" wire, i have heard you can just tap it into a existing wire on the dash, but not sure. Didn't bother doing more research on how to connect it. From memory it might just dimm or light up more when your parkers/headlights are on.

At this stage, don't really want to throw more then $1000 at it considering i have already bought a head unit. Looking for best value for dollar, whether it means i will have to spend more or less is up to you guys Btw, I am NOT brand loyal. Looking for best sound for the dollar.

Ey all, Only had my R33 GTR for a few month's and I grow to love it more and more every day, a little while back i put in a Pioneer DEH-6450BT to give me some luxury's such as handsfree bluetooth and iPod connectivity. Its a great little unit, but the sound quality is on the opposite side of the spectrum. I believe they are still stock speakers in my R33 GTR, they sound ultra crap. Not looking for competition sound, just something with some decent quality that can go up to a decent volume for those times when you feel like blasting a cool track because your in a awesome mood. Also NOT wanting to drill any holes in my door trims or make up anything to mount tweeters, would prefer to keep my door trim's intact as i don't trust myself cutting anything on it. So i am hoping to get away with a decent set of coaxial's, one or two amp setup and a small sub for that extra kick. If i could get away without running a sub that would be even better...! Thoughts?

I don't think turbo timer's or Remote starts are pure wank. Remote start is probably one of the best features of my skylines Cause when I'm on the shitter before I leave work, I can start my car and know its going to be ready for the daily commute Always nicer to drive a car that has been idling a bit then driving off on a pure cold engine.

Will keep you fellas posted, though I am doubtful i will ever find a resolution....due to catching the modification bug

Hmmm stock solenoid here.

After getting to my destination and leaving it parked for a few hours, It was fine, but then happened again on the way home. Drove it today on my daily commute and it was fine, (to be fair my daily commute is short as hell) so i got no idea now. I am leaning more towards something failing when it gets heated, due to the fact if it was a pipe that was constantly loose, It should be consistent loss of boost. Do GTR's have a "safe" tune the stock ecu map's too during certain situations? Such as if the rubber pipes were causing a kink, ecu thought wtf too rich and just invoked a safe tune?

Thanks for all the tips fellas, But if a turbo had shit itself, or a pipe had fallen off. Wouldn't it be loss of boost all the time? As it drives fine just after X amount of time driving it will stop going full boost.