Booki

Thoughts on shell helix hx7? $23 at super cheap for the moment

Was thinking of picking up some shell helix hx7 to rum through the car before filling with motul, should be fine running cheaper stuff for that purpose yeah? Its $20~ odd at super cheap wonder if anybody actually runs that oil ...

Could have had a hard life like alot of skylines, but strangely enough my bottom end looked really good, and the fact that the head had never been taken off the car or touched before was also a good sign

What are signs of detonation?

Ill take a guess that removing the stock boost restrictor and running stock turbo's on factory tune may have done it. Car has never over heated, considering its a R33 GTR 1995 model, original unopened motor I would maybe suspect wear and tear/time has caught up with it. Otherwise it all looked good underneath

no idea what caused the blown head gasket.....

Threw in the left over gulf western and some other various car oils i had in the shed, some leftover Shell Helix 10w-40 & Valvoline 15w-40. Ran the car similar amount of time and this came out of it. Think I'm looking pretty good!! Note to potential people thinking of running cheap oil - Don't, Oil pressure sucks with these oils.

Looked fine, threw some fresh oil in it and hoping for the best.

That was the reason for the gasket change, had cylinder number 5 with coolant and smoking. Was no smoking when I started it... I'm hoping its just residual...but after your comment fearing the worst

Just drained to the oil, Does this oil look water contaminated to you? I threw in some Gulf Western Synx6000 and thats what it came out like. Total run time of the car, maybe 3 minutes? Note: I filled my radiator up with just tank water to check for leaks/problems before throwing in coolant. Just took out the spark plugs now, none seem wet, Top of the pistons look a little "moist" could it just be petrol? Getting paranoid again!!

Just finished putting my R33 GTR back together after changing the headgasket, Took a few cranks to get it started but when it fired up it sounded smooth and was idling well, oil pressure looked normal, but shortly after a strange whining noise was coming from the car. I know my thrust bearing was on its way out (you can probably hear that in the vid) but unsure what the hell has happened now! The battery seems to be a bit low, we have had it on charge but isn't providing as much kick as it should. Also a sound of escaping air comes from the car after turning it off. I have also replaced my timing belt with a new OEM nissan one, unsure of how tight they are ment to be, could it just be too tight? The noise is also horribly amplified due to my shitty phone camera and being in a shed http://youtu.be/8-tdbWMadnI

I'm tempted to try the gulf western synx6000, what are people paying for this? Priced it up at auto barn for $48, was running motul 8100 before hand, shouldn't cause any dramas changing oil?

Just bought 4 of those Nissan H890C, Are these ok for my R33 GTR? I asked for the 8911AU but was given the above. Can anybody confirm? Opted for Genuine instead of Ryco, at $14 each, I figured the OEM would be better quality.

I'll have to check out auto barn, anybody else know some shops? Ones pref in Victoria

Little off topic, but where do you fellas buy your motul oil from? Repco no longer sell it

I always thought of getting this type of tool, But not sure on what size rb26 oil filters are, and even a better question can you easily get one of these tools in and out easily enough, anybody used one? They use it in the service manual. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sealey-Oil-Filter-Cap-Wrench-86mm-x-16-Flutes-/170863297305?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c83f0319&_uhb=1 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/79mm-Cap-Style-Oil-Filter-Socket-Wrench-Remover-15-Flutes-1-2-/400346525069?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d36832d8d&_uhb=1#ht_1900wt_1139

Gw's Synx6000 is too thick? Isn't it 5w-40?

What are the downsides of running such a oil? (Group iii/if blend) vs your group if/v? Is it just the extended life you get out of the higher group?

Would you say the syn 6000 is comparable to the motul 8100 xcess?

Doing some more reading, spewing I got my gtr too late, missed out on stocking up on some sougie. Was excellent value for such a high quality oil. How does the new gulf western oil synx 6000 stack up to motul 8100 and the other group vi/v variants? Also penrite hpr 5w40 is well priced, is it of similar quality to magnatec and the cheaper shell range?

Very good info, thanks! So what's the benefit of getting a 5w oil over a 10w? Temps do not get into tjr negatives here, but are thinner oils better on startup? Should you run the thinnest possible? Nissan recommend a 7.5w oil, personally I have been using motel excess 5w40, purely because thats what the previous owner used, but now trying to do my own research and make up my own mind if its worth the extra bucks when I rarely push the car. Mostly because 10w oils are cheaper then 5w, how would one feel about castrol magnatec? Or shell helix in the 10w40? Those are cheap...

Question is though, will the cheaper oils do the job? Even if you have to change them twice as much? Really what are the longterm benefits a of running a expensive group IV oil or better? Is the added expense really worth it?

I'm sure if you spin it well enough you could get a refund, What 10w 40 did you use?

Too thick IMO,change it out to a 10/5w-40

Is there really need to run a engine flush after working on it? Most oil flush's just thin the shit out of your oil so you can get more out of your sump when you drain it. I'm definitely no expert, but i think its just a bit of a gimmick. If you change your oil regularly you should have no use for a engine oil flush product. Most oils have detergents in them anyway to keep things clean. The more I read about oil's, the more I get confused.