M O P S K I

i have a set with tyres on, when i get some time ill chuck them on one side

^^ infortunately you will have to wait.. i need to get some tyres and still havnt decided on what to get..

Honestly couldnt tell you, got it 2nd hand.. but looks like it is.. atm it had stock wheels and is stock height as i have painted the wheels.. sneaky pic..

My R34 sedan, Photo taken at Might Car Mod meet 2013 by divine.media Camber angle..

when i got my r34 I replaced my big box with a 90 degree pipe as it has a crack in it and was leaking, the smaller box had a crack in it aswell so I closed that off. Although my car got slightly more responsive and slightly better on fuel. I also had to replace the radiator and couldnt fit the 'cold air snorkel' as it didnt fit in between the radiator and the bonnet. So with all of that combined it sounds like a vaccum cleaner at idle and sounds like ITB's at 4-5krpm WOT.

WTB: R34 Sedan Boot Lid WITHOUT spoiler holes, preferably black, any colour will do for the right price, must be in good condition. I can also swap for a boot with spoiler holes/spoiler (black) VIC Reply or Call/Text on 0423 538 272.

diff and shafts still for sale? cheers..

also by law your car is deemed unroadworthy to have any non OEM spec parts, eg increasing the manufactured power of the engine using cams, upgrading turbos, bigger intercooler and pod filter (both together, not one or the other). etc. vicroads are very unclear on their laws, they don't use scenarios, eg. 'If you have better brakes, you are allowed to increase the power of the engine.' vicroads don't mention a scenario like that at all, they also said you are allowed to change any part of your exhaust aslong as it doesn't inscrease power and doesn't make your engine emissions worse. If you are stuck on what is legal or illegal, give them a ring, speak to the person highest in the chain, take a note of who they are and what their answers are and is possible get them to write a letter saying what you can and can't do, so then you have physical evidence so if you are ever pulled over with modifications you have evidence but ofcorse make copies of the laws and dates of the laws..

I agree with nikk, wait out the p-plater stage before putting all the 'go fast parts' on. make it handle better, make it stop better, make your car more rigid, more reliable. coz there really is no point and no need to make more powerfull if its going to cost you a new gearbox the first time you take it to the track or a new diff because you wanted to race that wanker in the Commodore who thinks he can beat you cause he put CHEVROLET badges (which somehow adds 50rwkw) on his HOLDEN which is a v6 and has nothing what so ever to do with CHEVROLET.. I too am on my p-plates and just bought a stock standard N/A R34 and the only thing I have done to it so far is put an Australian head unit in because I do not know how to read or speak Japanese, replace front and rear speakers because they had more rattles than a paper bag in the wind and put in an amp for my sub and an amp for the speakers for a nice crisp sound.. Next on the list is coilovers and maybe some adjustable arms to get my car to sit and handle better than the stock setup so when I try and drift my skyline, it wont body roll like a 4x4 with a 12inch lift kit, after that maybe some nice rims, but not ones that say 'hey look at me, I have 20" rims skyline, but I have no tread on my tyres becuase they rub on everything known to underneath a wheel arch(except the road because my car obviously does not have the power to do so)' I could go on, but I think my point has been made.. To be completely honest, it would be wiser to purchase interchangable gear such as coilovers, arms, strut braces etc. Also whats the point on spending all your money on your N/A engine and only gain 50-75kw, when you could spend a tiny bit more and make 100kw+.. And if you think I'm heading down the wrong path, you may aswell buy an N/A VL Commodore for $500, bolt a spare turbo that you have lying around your house on the side of your engine and race your friends down a HWY that cops regularly patrol... just for fun... And if you choose to go down the spend big money on an N/A for little gain just cause you can, give me the money instead... JUST KIDDING!! There is a nice thread that has been pinned: http://www.skylinesa...ated-na-engine/ have a read, if it doesnt help you, google is your friend.. search for products, brand names etc.. my 2c.. and i hope that helps.. MOPSKI

hey guys, just saw this thread, I recently bought a tt-01D also before christmas and had been having a great time sliding my s15 until i lost it into a wall and well that shell is now gone and i bought a jzx100 shell, painted it, also got a full alloy kit for it, adjustable upper arms, 1 way tailshaft, solid axle diff (roughly $200 worth of stuff off eBay) and rebuilt the whole thing also chucked on sum stealth mounts for looks.. I live 5 minute drive from the track in boronia that Iamhe77 posted, but lately my rc car hasnt seen any sort of tarmac for the last month or 2 due to life being all that busy and me buying an r34.. as 25gtt said, the tt01 is probably not the best for drifting, its more of a beginner chassis out of most of them, but still they can be a lot of fun... s15 shell after attacking the front bar with a pen knife coz i smacked it into a wall really hard and wripped half the front off it...: jzx100 body: cheers..

double post

Hey, i recently went to import monster and was having a chat to aaron who knows a fair decent amount of info on skylines, i mentioned that the 19's didnt fit and scrubbed on and he was confused, he mentioned that you can fit 19x9's under the back, so i pulled my car in the factory there and we jacked it up and chucked on 19x9's +30's which are the same as other rims i had tried, they seemed to fit nicely and not scrub at all, and looked tuff, but in my opinion looked too... 'get your huge rims on ya commodore bro' sat too high (stock height) and sat about 5mm out the guard. I was originally there for some coilovers and pricing etc. and aaron mentioned to me that i could possibly fit 19x10's +30 on the back without scrubbing, my previous post may have been wrong, aaron also mentioned get a set of coilovers first, get the car sitting nice and how you like it, then if your wanting more camber or adjustment in your suspension, spend money on adjustable arms etc. then once you've spent money on that and have it sitting how your want, then start spending money on rims, and wen your happy with that.. drive it.. hope this helped again..

hey, i recently bought an r34 25gt sedan (non turbo) about 6 weeks ago, it had been in australia and had been sitting in a factory for a short amount of time before i bought it, it was advertised with no rego no rwc and had not been complianced yet, after inspecting my car, i said to the dealer that i wouldnt buy it without a rwc and rego, all sorted by him not me. I myself litterally inspected every possible spot on the car for rust, dent, scratches and any signs crash related damage, and to my suprise there was only a few scratches from someone wearing a watch while having their hand down the side of the door and 2 tiny dents that I wasnt able to noticeable from anything more than 10 metres away, the other thing i noticed was the seal in the boot, down the drivers side had a tiny bit of surface rust and grime roughly 2-3cm in diameter, while knowing this, i purchased the car, compliance passed, rwc passed and it was then rego'd, since having the car i havn't found any problems with the car at all. the engine and auto is still mechanically sound and runs as smoothly as the day I bought it. In my opinion, when buying r34 or any car for that fact, try to search the whole car and every seal that u can possibly get to, this will also show some enthusiasm that ur interested in buying the car not just a 'joy rider' and the seller may reduce the price (if they are nice enough). If the seller becomes frustrated at you for searching through the whole car, their most likely hiding something from you, and that something could be something major like crash damage or roadworthy problems, I myself was looking at another skyline before I bought mine and the owner got frustrated at me when I asked him to start the car and let it warm up before I took it for a drive, and made the excuse that 'fuel price are rediculous today, I don't want to keep the car running all day for joy riders' I immediately turned around to him and said 'good luck selling your car' and left, because he was most likely hiding something, and bad luck if he wasnt and honestly $10-15 in fuel is a small price to pay if your selling a 7.5k car. so not only looking out for visible damage, make sure you keep an eye on the seller, if the seller is uneasy when your looking at the car, they could be hiding something. I hope this help, this my personal opinion.. im fairly sure there is a 'guide to buying a skyline' thread somewhere on the forums. -MOPSKI

hey.. i tried sum 19x9+30s on the back and 19x8+30's on the front of my R34 sedan, which im pretty sure are the same setup (correct me if im wrong), but did not fit well at all, i mostly had trouble with the top of the tyre rather than the side, but it was still very on the inside of the wheel to touching stock suspension, also with the +30's the wheels sat roughly 5mm out of the guard which u would get done by cops easily.. i suggest grab urself a set of coilovers first and setup, then go to a wheel shop and ask them if they can trial fit a wheel (doesnt have to be te37s) but once uve got a rough idea of what size then purchase them, save you a lot of time and effort.. hope i could help..

cheers thanks for the info, it seems lyk a big job if done properly, with a big cost IMO, I did search, yet didnt find any answers to my questions. thanks again. M O P S K I

Hey guys, I just bought an R34 GT Sedan, and as most of you know that they dont have that fat GTR look that 99% of ppl on here just love!! So I was looking at a URAS rear fender kit Also door kit. My aim is to have a look alike GTR sedan, as there arn't many around, and it would look TUFF!! URAS KIT: http://www.uras.co.jp/aero_image/IMG_0556.jpg The kit gives it that fat look im after (definately not going to be badging it as a GTR), and since its a sedan, I havnt seen many 4 doors with the kits on, which brings me to a few questions. 1.) Has anyone used any of these kits before? if so, do they line up neatly? (will be fitted by a shop if purchased) 2.) Would GTR tail lights fit these? or would I need to replace the boot with a GTR boot. 3.) Bumper will most likely be changed to a GTR bumper, would it line up neatly? 4.) With the front end of the car, Would the bonnet also need to be changed? (GTR bumper will be fitted) Thats all the questions i can think of for the moment. I know most of you are probably going to say 'buy a gtr' but thats not wat im looking for. Any information on these kits etc would be a great help!! thanks in advance. M O P S K I

Hey guys, turns out the stag that caught my eye, was in fact not in as good condition as i thought it was, so it really let me down, so i spent my money elsewhere, on an ER34 instead as im in need a new car coz my VL commodore is costing me more than i paid for it to keep it barely running considering i havnt done any mods to it etc. thanks to everyone who gave me a straight answer on wat was required and sorry to have wasted anyones time (if it did). thanks again!

so aslong as the DE is from an AWD skyline for example, it will bolt up fine??

i want the origonal engine to go back in the car. located in Vic. I havnt taken into account about the front diff or other components as i havnt had a chance to put one on a hoist and have a look, is there clearence differences from n/a to turbo engines? exhaust? intake? etc. this is why I am asking you guys, who know a thing or 2 about engine swaps etc. before i go ahead with doing it. thanks!!

Hey guys, Ive recently been looking at Stagea's and theres a 97 model thats catching my eye that looks in good condition that im thinking about buying although I have plans to get the engine internals rebuilt(now rather than in a few years time, due to work) and I would most likely need the car to drive to and from work.. SO, I have a mate thats selling an RB25DE for fairly cheap compared to another RB25DET so I was thinking along the lines of swapping the DE(sounds stupid to do, but money budgeting and time are big factors) into the stag untill the DET is rebuilt then back in it will go with a bit more power and reliability. I recently did an engine conversion on a VL, so I know that exhaust manifold, ECU, loom and intake would need to be changed as well as the engine. And after reading a few RB26 conversion guides on different forums, I wasn't able to have my question answered, so, I was just wondering if there would be anything specific that I would need to pay attention to such as AFM, wiring etc. Or would it basicly be making sure that all the n/a loom stays with n/a engine and turbo loom stays with the turbo engine. Also is there any differences with AFM's, or wiring differences. Would appreciate the help, as I havn't found any help yet. Thanks.