jorgo90

Duplicate

Item 1: Boot and fuel flap release cable Item 2: Lower Dash and Centre Console Trim Image: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/MM4AAOSw1ZBUswgx/$_57.JPG Item 3: Centre Console Trim missing centre console lid. Image: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$T2eC16hHJGkE9no8jEH4BQ+697pOQg~~60_57.JPG (Without the leather lid) Pickup from Hornsby or st leonards (during business hours)

I need a matching set of R34 GTT Headlights. Must be Xeon. New or Used. Can anyone recommend a place to purchase or anyone have some for sale? Thanks

He did have a wing, but admittedly it was a very small one and it was probably lighter ... I thought about that but I figured surely the stock wing and boot would spring up... Perhaps not. Thanks for all the input!

Thank Shoujiki.... Anyone else had this experience? Its such a pain.... Surely its possible because it kind of negates the half the purpose of having boot struts and a release cable.

I have a 1998 R34 GTT, when I pull the boot release cable the boot lid doesn't spring up by itself. I thought it may have been the boot struts because when you go to close the the boot, the lid kind of just falls so I purchased another second hand set off a guy who showed me on his car that it would open by itself. Installed the struts on mine, but the boot still wont spring up by itself. Am I missing something? Is there some other spring or something else somewhere. I just have the stock boot and wing (As far as I know - hasn't opened by itself since I purchased the car) Thanks for the help.

For problem 2, i have also noticed that there is less of a "throw back" effect when the turbo actually releases air into the engine when it hits the PSI mark.

Hi everyone, I purchased my 1998 R34 GTT about 7 months ago, and all went perfectly for about 6 months. Recently I have run in to a few problems which I really need some help or recommendations on as to what might be the cause and what to do about it. The car has a aftermarket alarm turbo timer immobiliser(not sure if it is all one unit or seperate) and a power fc which i think may be relevant to the problem, but also has aftermarket pod filter, front mount intercooler, and a few other bits and peices. Problem 1: At the end of a trip, when I turn the key to the off position, 90% of the time the engine will either turn off temporarily then try kick start(crank) itself, and when successful runs down the turbo timer and then turns everything off properly, or it will turn off (sometimes sound like its trying to start) but doesn't kick start/turn back on, but my boost controller and dash indiciation lights remain lit, indicating that the car still has power running through it and the car isn't actually off (I then have to turn the car back on by turning the key to the start position, then I can pull the key out with no problems everytime and it will run down the timer and shut everything off properly). 10% of the time it will actually stay running when the key is removed and run down the turbo timer then turn off with no problems. This problem has gradually become worse, it use to be 10% failure rate, now its only 10% success rate of turning off properly. I have also experienced funny business with the immobiliser where i can start the car and have it running (can't be done without the immobiliser disabled) then all of a sudden the car will sometimes beep or not beep and I put the handbreak down the drive and the engine cuts off. Problem 2: When driving with no boost, the revs can go as high as they want in any gear with no problems, when turning the boost on, in 1st-3rd gear, when excellerating and the boost preasure builds up especially getting towards the higher RPM, a squeel sound almost like some of the old kettles when boiling water or asif air is beeing squeezed through a small gap occurs. Could this be the BOV, or piping, or any other suggestions? Thank you so much for any advice in advanced.