yamaha227

yep still have it and it will fit a 32 gtr no probs.

Any pic's of the engine and gearbox or are they sold? Do you know how much power the engine was making or is it pretty stock? What sort of clutch was in it and what condition? Interested in freighting to NT if i organise it? Thanks

How is the condition of the gearbox? How many k's ? Does it come with the transfer?

Had a chat to ben yesterday and as it turns out they are 550's, silly me jumping to conclusions... or that was the impression the previous owner gave me anyway. so with 320kw@rw im guessing that's nearly about it for those injectors Oh well, another thing that i can put on the list for future upgrading, sorry to lead you all down the garden path... and GTR-ben i promise i will try harder next time, my driving must really suck

injectors have just been cleaned and are all good, PFC was set up by Ben at race pace so im guessing it should be right. Will check the fuel pressure as soon as i get a chance, maybe it was suffering from a bit of surge with the G's at the strip?

After a session at the drag strip last night i had alot of problems changing from 2ng to 3rd under load on the strip. it crunched a few times and wouldnt go in to 3rd until i slowed right down. On the last run it crunched again, then when i went to park it i had no reverse gear, it will go in but when you let the clutch out it just sits there. found out on the way home that i also have no 5th anymore aswell, so now i have to way up what to do. Any ideas on what the standard gearbox is capable with handling. I intend to get the car into the low 11's, thats my goal anyway. Will prob only go to the strip a couple of times a year and the rest of the time will be driven on the street. Current tune is about 320kw@rw but hoping to get somewhere around 400 to achieve my low 11 goal. Should i go for a new standard GTR box or something a little stronger??

Finaly had the chance to take my GTR down the qauter last night, managed a best of 12.3 thought it was ok for my first outing and no mods done for the strip. Think i have finaly reached the end of my gear boxes life though... wouldnt select third at all 3 out of my 5 runs and now i have no 5th and reverse gear but one thing i did notice is after each run, having a look at the peak hold status on th PFC hand controller my injectors were running at 100% duty cycle at some stage down the qauter. I have 700cc sard injectors and a walbro in tank fuel pump, so any ideas on what it could be? Fuel rail or fuel regulator problem? it still has the stock fuel pressure reg on it so not sure if it can keep the pressure i need for the big injectors? Now all i need is to try and find a new box...

will do, always use BP ultimate but think for the strip i might add some toluene just to make sure, its so hot up here and everything helps. How will the toluene go with the iritop plugs?

well after many months of the road i finnaly have my GTR going again... and best of all no more smoke. would be quicker to write what the engine bulder did right than wrong, ended up putting genuine nissan rings back in as i didnt trust him with anything more complicated, once the block was honed again and the pistons rods and crank were fitted i took the bottom end home while the cylinder head was sent south to sydney. Had some mild porting work done while it was away as i figured it would be a good time to have this done... not keen in pulling the engine out again in the near future although im getting pretty quick at it. Its all run in now and running sweet, finnaly going to get a chance to get it to the drag strip and see what it can do. have been noticing a little bit of detonation everynow and then, seems to be late at night when the air is cooler as the peak hold function on my boost controller is showing its making around .6 to .8 bar more peak boost at night than during the day, have 3 setting's so will probally try and set the third setting to something i can use at night. would have thought it would be less prone to detonation when its cooler, but i think the boost controller is not helping the situation, may be something to do with the sensitivity of the gate pressure aswell so might take a bit of mucking around to get right. havent seen anything over 62 on the power fc and its only on the odd occasion so im not to concerned, but definately needs fixing. Any ideas on what heat range spark plug would be best for our heat up here. its generally never below 20 at night and about 30 to 35 during the day. its running HKS 2530's at 1.5 bar, was thinking about getting some IRITOP NGK's in the 8 heat range and seeing how they go. it had BCP7ES when it was in melbourne so was thinking the next colder heat range might be better for our hot weather? So the next step will be some better cam shafts to suit my head work and turbo's, as i still have stock cams, anyone have any opinions on what cam shafts would best suit my setup? It's awesome to finnaly have it going again, nothing beats the feeling of punching a modded gtr down to the shops... hopefuly it pulls a good time at the strip

do you still have the AP 6 pot callipers and rotors for sale? and how much if you do?

anyone interested there is another street meet on next friday the 24th, hopefuly will be a couple of GTR's down there and anyone else who is keen...

merli, i had a turbo smart e-boost put on my gtr last week and its working really well, turbo's are spooling faster as its helps hold the wastegates shut for longer. make sure your gate pressures are set right, they tend to spike and fluctuate a bit if set to sensitive and make sure your over boost shut down is set atleast .2 bar over your max setting... see how that goes

If you want less hassles with the whole running in process i would use genuine nissan rings, and alot more straight forwad to install if you dont have total faith in your engine builder, just make sure the hone is done with a nice 400 grade ball hone.

who has ever bought a brand new car and had to dump the oil at 1000 or whateva cause mineral or running in oil is used from the factory in your new car, synthetic straight up, why make your engine "wear in" ? just out of interest, buy a brand new porsche, mercedes HSV and see whats in it.... mobil 1

has anyone tried the turbosmart e-boost controller??

engine still in bits, should be back together within the next 3 weeks, will let you know how it all goes this time...

i have an SMC installed in my supercharged mitsubishi pajero, its an evo lancer plug and play with an extra ignition driver wired into the board. it works awesome, plugged straight into my original loom and i have the advantage of a nice big laptop screen to look at for tuning.... and how good is that auto tune feature, autronic is certainly not behind the eight ball when it comes to ecu's

I think that has been my biggest problem, engine builder doesnt know how to set everything up correctly to suit these rings, worked that out when i realised he didnt read the instructions (eg correct hone grade) to suit these rings. so i would just about bet my left aggot he didnt gap them properly as well. so will go with the standard nissan rings for this reason, less things for him to get wrong hopefuly. have talked to a couple of people about hone grades, ring gaps etc for standard rings, but does anyone have any more info for me to keep in mind so i can keep an eye on things. as far as i can tell, 13 thou is the maximum ring gap i should have for the top and 22 thou for the second ring. 400 grade with a ball hone to finish of the cylinders seems to be what is generally used, anyone heard any different from an experianced RB engine builder? anyone know the correct way to install valve stem seals? do you put the seal on first then put the valve up through the guide, or valve in first then protect the seal from the grooves in the end of the valve by using a bit of packaging tape wrapped around the end of the valve temporarily, then slip the lubbed up seal down onto the guide? what should he be using to get the valves home on the guide? thanks, ben

thanks mark, will go and check my valves before he throws them back in. they were all brand new valves so unless they are like that from factory they should have been ok. i had the valvoline in it for about 50k then was told by an experienced rb engine builder in sydney it was not a good idea so i changed it, to a straight 25w 50 mineral oil. spoke to ben about how he runs his engines in and he said he normaly runs them a little while to settle everything in and does a few kays, then leps rip and generally uses synthetic oil straight up. so the engine shop will now be getting a visit from me everyday so i can keep an eye on things and check everything out for myself aswell, not keen to go through it again.

after much thought, trouble shooting and resistance (so didnt want to pull the fu#@ing engine out again), i pulled the engine and box out yesterday. this came about after many visits to the engine shop and i finnaly got to the bottom of what he actually did wrong. found out he used the standard 400 grade of hone on my cylinders instead of reading the instructions that came with the total seal rings which says to use between a 240 and 280 grade. great, wasnt i excited, so my cylinders are probaly glazing up nicely and the rings will never get a chance to bed in properly. made me feel really confident when he seemed to be comparing my RB26 to a standard engine he rebuilds everyday So didnt want to bother with wasting a day on doing the valve stem seals when the cause of my problem is likely to be something else. talked to SK who had some good advice, and ben at race pace who used to tune the car when it was in melb. ben suggested it was prob a good idea to pull the engine, re-hone to suit the standard nissan rings, check everything else and bang it back together. stripped all the bits of the engine today and found number 3 and 4 exhaust ports to be saturated with black oil and quite a few of the inlet valve stem seals to be also letting oil down the stem, so seems to be combination of both poor ring seating and the majority of the valve stem seals leaking. so off with the engine and back to the engine shop, didnt he seemed shocked when he sore the evidence of what ive been trying to convince him off over the past couple of weeks. he was convinced it was a turbo issue and all the work they did was perfect. Dean, can you remember which turbo got the new core and which one didnt, forward one seems a little bit suspect so its of at the turbo shop getting checked out. hopefuly i have some luck with the second go??

hooking up pcv system made no difference, took it for a good run and still the same. so will do the valve stem seals mid next week, start with the easier fixes first and see what happens. any idea on what sort of pressure i need in the cylinders while changing the seals to keep the valve in place?

blocking the pcv valve and rear turbo line on the intake boot isnt about more power, dont have problems in that area,its makin heaps. this is done to stop any intake of oil mist back into the intake under decent boost which can clog intercoolers and cause detonation. checked out the cylinders with the boroscope yesterday and all is good, no scores and the cross hatching hone marks look good. will definately try hooking the pcv system up again to see if this helps, worth a try. with it disconnected i realise the venting system is working against atmospheric conditions (14.7psi) at idle and decell, so maybe hooking it up to both the pcv and intake boot might help (giving it vacum and helping to releive some of the pressure in the rocker covers). see how it goes...

havent spoken to ben yet but will try to call him today, one of the disadvantages of living up here... no one has any experience on these things. good idea with the boro scope, i have one at work i can use that we use to inspect gas turbine engine internals so it should do the trick. will go pick it up today and see what the bores and valve/pistons look like, hopefuly give me an idea...

well after a long day at the work shop still no closer but have atleast cancelled a few things out. did a dry comp test, compressions were good so didnt bother with a wet. did notice something interesting though with all the plugs out, plugs in number 3 and 4 were alot blacker than any of the others. all the rest were burning nice and clean. here are the comp results... CYL COMP PLUG CONDITION #1 = 160psi clean #2 = 165psi clean #3 = 166psi black/brown #4 = 174psi black all over #5 = 165psi clean #6 = 175psi clean comps are good, bit of variation between 1 and 6 but nothing to worry about at this stage i think. so pulled the front pipes of to cat and started the engine with a few small pushes of the throttle after it was warm and noticed that both turbo's seemed to be smoking similar amounts. which makes sense compared to plug condition. so im thinking either the fuel is not atomising well in those cylinders or the valve stem seals are leaking in those cylinders. will put a AFR meter on it tomorrow and hopefuly this will cancel out a fuel problem. any idea what sort of time is involved in doing valve stem seals with head on??

hope so, not keen on pulling turbo's off and considering they were fine before the rebuild it would be very unlucky...