boj01

Is the any wreckers that anyone knows of who have interior pieces such as air vents and side mirror covers for the R30??

looks likes she's been....errrr.... looked after in the last few years.......

pics would do wonders for the sale......

you've got PM!

has the engine bay been repsrayed???

pics plz to [email protected]

generally if you know the right people you can get it done for around the same price messiah did. i paid $250 for a second hand 5" cannon, then $750 for a 3" turbo back stainless exhaust with a stainless resonator. add about another $250 for a high flow cat (which i dont have as my car is a '82) and the exhaust will owe you $1250. not too bad considering a second hand japanese brand will cost around the same price, but will most probably be scratched up + the baffles used in majority of the muffler cans will need replacing - about $150 - as the japs only use mild steel inserts in a stainless steel exhaust......go figure??

u can get a good dump pipe made up at any decent exhaust shop, for a custom one you would pay around $200.

get a hold of a mates switch and plug it into yours...... from the sounds of your problems it will be the switch thats faulty..... that is the case 9/10 times!

sounds good 2 me

sounds like majority of 'line owners have this problem, from the R30's to the R33's so i guess its common and built into the ECU as the others have explained. My car does the same, doesnt rev smoothly over 3500rpm, but as its warmed up it nice and smooth. cold starts, live with it!!

clutches around the $3000 are generally brass button clutches and also multi plated.... quite different to a simple $500 single plate sports clutch!!

alas I am.... the autronich is out of the reach at the moment..... what power out put in rwkw should a FJ20ET, with mandrel 3" turbo back exhaust, pod filter, GTR type FMIC, all on standard ECU, AFM, Fuel Pump + Injectors???

stagefumer - know of a bigger bolt in injector upgrade from the FJ20ET??

The bigger injectors will be pumping a certain amount more petrol per minute than the standard ones, so you will use more fuel..... but what type of fuel pump do you have, as pump and injectors go hand in hand

Shannons told me they wont insure a car over 15 years old + the fact Im only 18..... I'm not old enough to worry bout the family part!!

thats a really sweet looking car..... good platform to start modifyig it from if it doesnt already have all the go fast bits on it!!

R34 - GTT, GTR, GT JZA80 - RZ, SZ Maybe other 4 cyl Nissans, or R31 Oz Delivered (RB30E) vs GTS (RB20DET NICS)

Thats true, I love the car, but too much money has to be spent to make it go quick and you can only do the speed limit. Heres a list of stuff that I would think it needs in order for me to be happy with it (I've already price it all up) * $1300 on suspension * $4500 on paint work + rust * $1000 on retriming interior * $1200 on FMIC * $2500 on Autronich Engine Management _____ $8500 + all the incidentals along the way Plus the fact its still a 22 year old car, no insurance (only 3rd party) The other side of the story is if I sell my Excel I shared with my old man, I get the money from the sale of a car, but only if I spend it on a new car and not an import. Hard 2 decide!!

Thats true, I love the car, but too much money has to be spent to make it go quick and you can onl do the speed limit. Heres a list of stuff that would I think it needs in order for me to be happy with it (I've already price it all up) * $1300 on suspension * $4500 on paint work + rust * $1000 on retriming interior * $1200 on FMIC * $2500 on Autronich Engine Management _____ $8500 + all the incidentals along the way Plus the fact its still a 22 year old car, no insurance (only 3rd party) The other side of the story is if I sell my Excel I shared with my old man, I get the money from the sale of a car, but only if I spend it on a new car and not an import. Hard 2 decide!!

Nar my car doesnt have power windows or steer, does have air con but no gas and if I was to fit a FMIC, the air con would have to go. I think the power options came in the 83 model, or maybe mine is just a poverty spec. Ive heard rust in the strut towers is a common problem with the R30 as there is 3 layers of sheet metal there and the water gets in between the layers and rusts it out. I just dont know whether I can justify spending $20000 on a DR30 (as rare as they are) when I can sell it and go back to a small 4 cyl, where i can actually have it comprehensively insured. I would lose to much if it were to be stolen or written off. Thanks for the comments to guys... appreciate it....

Hi All, I currently own a 1982 DR30 Skyline 2 Door Coupe. Its got 168000 original km's on the clock (not too bad for a 22 year old car eh?). The engine is still in really good nick but like all FJ20ET's is in need of paint on the intake manifold. Mods include: * Lowered 2 inches all round * 16 x 7 Volk Racing rims * 3" turbo back stainless exhaust, with resonator to a 4" titanium rear cannon * R34 GTT seats fitted to the front. * Alpine stereo * 15% tinted windows * Omori Boost Guage * KnN Pod Filter * 3 point Alarm + Immobiliser + Central Locking * Greddy Turbo Timer And thats all I can think of at the moment. I've now realised that the car is going to be more work than I've thought, as I would never be entirely happy with it as it doesnt have all the mod-cons. What are your thought on this and what do you think I could get for it??

thats normal!!! your not supposed to get a positive boost reading while stationary, only when on the move

go the FJ20ET!!

they will probably get the normal king springs and have them reset???