Adz

There is only one kit for a R34 http://sunline-racing.com/gtr34/ Lucky for the average joe GT Autosound in SA have the moulds.

Here is a clip of my little stuff up and the end of the straight and and across the back of the track.

Here is a graph of speed vs time. I have added the turns on the graph. Note there is a portion of the front straight missing and some data drop out.

I think the brake issue is a bit of both, set up and the car could now do with a brake bias valve.

Let me asure you the footage does not do the car any justice. This is by far the hardest thing I have ever driven. The only indication of this is how quickly I have to put my hand back on the steering wheel after a gear change. The springs are curently too soft as the car is now wider this acts as a extended leaver to compres the spring, damper and sway bars. This coupled with rediculasy quick shock rebound and little droop on rebound basickly means the rear wheels trys to push the back of the car off the bumps in to the air. Not a cool sensation. But yeah with a bit more rear grip I can expect more drive out of the corners , mid corner stability and stable braking.

Here is some in car footage

WOW!! What a day. That was by far the most challenging day at Sandown I have ever had!! I have never driven anything so scary in my life. Not scary as in violently fast in fact and extra 100kw would be nice, but scary as in the car was doing everything in its power to spit me off the track. The set up is a little up the wah zoo to say the least and the brakes are past their limits. Basically the car just wants to go sideways on every corner. Even the little kinks that you never even have to think about like the one coming on the front straight and the one at the start of the back straight. These little kinks make the car want to jump off the track. On top of that I had to brake so so early as late and hard braking would just lock the rears and make the car want to spin around. The car also couldn’t get out of the corners without loosing traction. It didn’t matter how close I got to a car at the start of a corner everything pulled away on the exit until I got traction in a straight line, even std comos would pull away. The results were consistent 1.22's which im pretty happy with. The car is now off to Race Pace for a full Benno setup overhaul. Mark my words. This car will do a sub 1.20 once the brakes and set up are sorted. Overall it was an awesome day and mechanically the car was excellent. Big thanks to all that came down for a gander, lend a hand and annoy snowy with txt's lol. Thanks Juzzy for all your help, you’re awesome xoxo.

Sounds like detonation to me. Could be time for a new fuel pump and a tune up. Could also be the spark blowing out at high boost that that will usally happen when boost comes on as aposed to at high revs. Change and gap the plugs. If it still happend then its detonation which will kill a motor prety quick.

Hey mate, Long time no speak. Sorry to hear your not doing DA this year but I tottaly understand where your comming from. to start with what a good thread. I have just finished my R32 and am looking for cuircut opertunities to go thrashing so ill be following this closely. For the time being im just doing CAMS registored super sprints with various cams car clubs. Just to lean some tracks and get the car set up. I can definatly offer you advise on what needs to be done to a r32 to get it up to speed. Brakes: Your car is lighter than your average 32 so you dont need to go over the top in brakes. I have bought the UAS Stage 1 brake up grade kit. This means I run the std caliper but biger GTR disks. The ONLY pad you will ever need regardless of disk and calipers is HAWK's. I recomedn the HAWK HT-10. Tey are just amazing. Pull your eyes out of you socket material. Tyres: once again there is only one option. Bridgestone RE055's. Unless you want to run slicks. In that case im not sure yet. Hope that helps.

Couldnt think of a better car to use in the wet.

Good news. So I had to get new wheels for my car as they old ones looked good but were not for motorsport use. This left me with no option but to get a new set of wheels but being a wide body car these wheels could not be found off the shelf. I had to call upon Pete from The Mag Wheel centre to measure up my car and cater for potential brake upgrades. The end result are a brand new set of BBS rims that fit the car perfectly with out the need for spacers and dont seem to foul up on anything they also cater for the bigest of brakes if ever required. This means that the track day is on. My entry is going in tomoz.

Please please please dont use them on a gtr in the wet. They are really slipery in the wet.

Yeah im with Jar drifters love them. Or if you want to learn to drift or thinking of doing deca keep them.

If its the complete kit you wont need much at all. If you are running the std turbo and dump pipe at the moment all the exhaust and cooler pipes will fit on with nothing needing to be changed apart from the pipe from the air cleaner. This is because the mouth of the turbo is bigger. It should be eaisly fixed with a silicone pipe.

I would do what I did and nomuken does. Use a RB26 throtle bodies and plenium. Race Pace make the adapter plate. All you need to do is buy the RB26 intake side $400 - $600 and the go to race pace and get them to install it. It is extramly responsive and the japs claim a 40hp increase straight up. I would only go Gready if you were making a 600HP drag car. Plus the single throtle body is a bit mushy but has good flow up top in big hp aplications. Race Pace 03 9762 9421

From a lot of experience I would ONLY use the HKS item. HKS put a lot of time, effort and money it to supplying an optimal dump pipe to suite that turbo. It can not be compared to a aftermarkt item not specific to that turbo. Sell the JJR one and use the money to make up a nice 3 inch front pipe.

I hate to say it but i can see a custom bell housing with box and conventional clutch and a pedal box/clutch pedal asembly.

So here is a cool little fact. Sure there is a 180 KMH speed limiter which is linked to the gps. In Japan when the car sences that it is at a racing circut it removes the 180kmh speed limiter. How cool is that!!! Not sure that targa roads are in its system but if you were doing more than 180kmh more than a hand full of times at targa you would be insane.

Ha you and me both. Fingers crossed.

Mate if your bloke doesnt know how to setup his dyno I wouldnt let him any where near a PFC. PFC isnt just plug and play you really need to know what your doing. A PFC can be the best modd to blow up your motor the quickest, youl need "help back" to another workshop. can i ask where you took it to?

So depending on what you want to achieve there are two ways. If you gare just tightening it to sell your car or roadworthy it just remove the leather boot on the base of the hand brake and use a 10mm socket and ratchet and tighten it up the nut on the end of the cable. If you want to tighten it for motorsport or drift I recommend the following: 1. Loosen the nut in the that i referred to earlier until its at the end of the thread then put handbrake all the way down. Obviously do this on level ground. 2. Then jack the back of the car up and remove both wheels. You will see on the rear brake disks there is a rubber bung that looks like a big flathead screw. Remove this with needle nose pliers. 3. Rotate the brake disk until the hole that had the bung in it is at 6 o clock. Look in the hole and you will be able to see a notched wheel in side mounted vertically. This is the adjustment point for the actual shoes on the hand brake. 4. With a flat head screw driver rotate the wheel upwards to tighten. Do this until you cant rotate it up any more. You will find that you can no longer rotate the hub and brake disk at this point as the shoes are too tight. 5. Then you want to back off the shoes by turning the notched wheel down 3-4 notches. You will find that the hub and brake disk are now free again. 6. You have now tightened up the hand brake shoe on that side. Put the rubber bung in with you fingers. Do not push it too hard or it will go in to the hub and you will have to take the disk off to get it back. 7. Repeat on the other side and put wheels back on. 8. Now tighten the nut in the cabin at the base of the hand brake. 9. You should now have a brand new hand brake. Hope that helps and makes sense.

What car dude.

Man do it..... that will be so much fun. R32GTSt super sprint. No ABS ftw or ftl... I cant recall the last time I hit a track without it. Bris ill winde down the boost for you from 16 to the wastegate min 12 but its the 315's and 265's youl have to worry about.

HSV Owners Club are running club sprints at Sandown When: Sunday 10th Febuary Where: Sandown Entry Forms Here I belive the FPV club are going to join in which should be fun. Im going to take my car to Sandown for the first time for a test and tune Whos comming with me?

This could be fun. I have work to do if the cars going to be ready for this. Why have you retired Stiggy?