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http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...E:IT&ih=004

Guys my brother has got a set of 16x7 et 24 bbs rs 4x114.3 that he planned to modify to fit on his BMW but they dont clear the brakes. Should be easy enough to make fit an R31 or NA 32, NA 33. Specs: All wheels are 16x7 with the offset of 24, centre bore is approx 70mm They are 4x114 stud pattern however they are flat back so any wheel place can add an extra 4 holes at (4x100 if required) isnt too expensive due to no filling. Condition all great, besides needing the ususal polish that rs's need. Looking for $1000 as they are. Please email my brother v_stott(At)hotmail.com with offers or questions Located in Melbourne, no tyres. Better pics on request.

Nope engine is completely stock, except for a Pod filer, and a turbo back exhaust. running stock boost. I should mention its not rubbish petrol either, I only fill up on optimax.

Recently my car (r33 gtst) has been starting on only 5cyl with the 6th kicking on within a second or 2 afterwards. Just this weekend my car stopped starting all together. I called the RACV out. Engine was flooded. started the car by clamping the fuel line. I told the guy about my 5cyl starts. He told me that my fuel pressure is too high and I will need to get this looked at. Anyone had a similar problem to this and rectified?

Anyone have the english Fuse Layout on the internal fuse box for an R33? Thanks,

I'm quick to cover up my mistakes with humor

repost http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R33-...1QQcmdZViewItem

Thats weird then, that dosn't match the vicroad specs?

so what then is the max tyre profile? 225?

Hey guys, Sorry if this has been posted before. But does anyone know what the widest legal wheel and tyre size is for an R33 GTST? I've looked up vic roads, and as confusing as it is something about 25mm from the stock wheel on the model, but i've been told it can be any model variation of the car so does this mean 25mm ontop of the GTR wheels sizes? Thanks

Had a search for similar problems, nothing seems to be related to my lazy driverside electric windows. Very weird problem, on pressing up or down on my driver side window switch nothing happens. However if I then try to do it again about 30-40seconds later it works fine. If i simply keep trying to push the switch up or down nothing will happen. Its almost like I need to press a 'get ready to work button' 30 seconds before I intend to wind down my window. Really anoying at drive throughs. Anyone with a similar problem, or even an explanation?

I used MaxiStop super silent pads in mine, and they have an ear peircing screech. Does anyone know if those metal backing plates make a difference? My mechanic mate told me that they are usualy responsible for making the squeeks and is best to remove them.

Yeah I though it was a bedding problem, so i've already tried that.. seemed to make it worse

Anyone with a similar problem please help me! I Replaced the pads on my 33 recently. To which the brakes had an ear peircing screech. They were obviously to hard so I swapped the pads to a differnt brand (MaxiStop Super Silent pads). Still had a sqeeky brake problem. So then I had all the discs machined. And I still have a squeeky brake problem! I've called nissan service their only solution was to put genuine pads in it. Has anyone had a a silimar problem? Or know of anything else I can do to stop the squeek? Before I spend $180 on my Third set of pads!

What colour are those? black or shadow? im interested would like some better pics however. [email protected] Thanks

Heh, Do you guys read the rat sheet? You see that thing about the 'Drift Clubs' midnight meetings in car park 8. I wonder what happens there

Am I the only one here that still goes to LaTrobe, Im guess riggaP has graduated too?

S1 Front foggies are H3's (if you got the factory option from nissan for foggies)

Not sure if its the same problem, but I had a large split in my top tank. Got the whole top tank replaced, full system flush and refill for less than $200.

Awesome, thanks Sumo... I thought I was missing something.

Sure, its your stock factory Nissan 4 pin plug... I'll get a better pic up by tonight... its been suggested this could be a plug that mechanics could plug a terminal into for error codes and such, seeing as how it is directly connected to the fuse box.

Don't think it could be that, the car still starts fine. Thanks however...

Hey guys, My car was recently broken into and they have been under my hood. My Alarm siren was stolen and my fuse box has been tampered with. Im left with two wires lose in my engine bay, and no fuse box cover. The first wire (at the top) is for my alarm siren, but the second I have no idea? Has something been removed from my engine...?! please help.. (Also if any one notices anything weird about the way my fuse box is please also mention it.. I found wireing and other electric clips near the car)

Looking for the black metal braket that is used to hold the rear badge on for an R33.

I have a turbo back standard exhaust.