maccattack

Only product I use is their Pro Octane Boost - and only when I am doing track work. In a comparitive test done by Fast Fours magazine it was equal first for increasing the octane value of fuel. Good track insurance.

As most people have said - not for power gain - more for insurance. Raises the anti-knock value of the fuel - protection against detonation. Fast Fours Magazine did a test ages ago with NF Octane Boosetr Racing Formula and Nulon Pro Strength Octane Booster tieing for first place. Both raised the RON value by 2.8 points.

You might find what you are after here http://www.supraalloys.com/ or http://www.astm.org/

GTR 32, I think it was when they were changing over the ECU (from Apexi back to stock back to Apexi) when they noticed the plug - which is actually more like a bar had a slight bow in it. I would have been stuffed otherwise - it had taken 3 weeks of trial and error, calling in auto electricians, 2 fuel pumps, etc, etc, etc when someone came across this. At one stage, whilst at the mechanics, we couldn't start the car. Put a pressure gauge onto the fuel line and had zero pressure. Everyone stuffed around trying to work out why - no go. One of the guys leant up against the car - hey presto, full pressure. Was driving us nuts. Definitly worth a check if you experience any wierd stalling as described.

The groove is simply where the pad garbs onto the rotor. After a while the rotors begin to wear - eventually getting to the point whereby they become too thin and need to be replaced. Not only do you pads wear down - so do your rotors. The smaller grooves (like a vinyl record) are generally caused by imperfections in and on the pads. Pads basically get hard and soft spots which wear the rotor at differing rates.

Twitchy, Sounds similar to a problem I had (and which we eventually fixed). Car would run like a dream and then, for no apparent reason, loose all power, survive a complete stall by pumping the accelerator, then after about 15-20 seconds, it would come good again and off we go. Kept happening at the most inappropriate times. Same deal, we thought AFM, replace both (paid about $150 each second hand). No good. Changed fuel pump, checked wiring, relays, computer, CAS, spark advancer - basically everything you could think of. Mechanic would say - "I think we've got it now" after they road and dyno test - only to do it again on the way back to work. ANYWAY... turned out to be the plug to the computer. It has a single bolt on the centre of the plug. As the car accelerates or brakes, the plug would rock - ever so slightly - and lose connection with the fuel pump pins. Used a bunch of zip ties to hold the plug firm on the edges - never had a problem since. It's a long shot - but if it is the cause - you may not have thought to look at it. Hope you get it fixed soon. Cheers Peter

Ok all you NA liners - let the bidding begin - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Holden-mazda-n...1QQcmdZViewItem

Firstly, have a look at the sticky thread at the top of this section on tyres and how you rate them. By the sound of things you want a reasonable tyre which will last. Unfortunately, you get what you pay for in most instances. High performance generally comes with high wear. Anything that does both comes with high cost. My suggestion would be to have a look at the Hankook Ventus Sport K104. These appear to be a well priced, long lasting, reasonable performing tyre.

It all depends on what you are going to do in your rebuild. A basic rebuild will cost you minimal in parts but a "hot motor" rebuild will pop $10k in parts before you start. You will need to be more specific with what (and why) you are going for in a rebuild. What broke? Are you going for extras? Are you going for power, strength or both?

Paul, Add on results (as with everyone else). I'm also with SirSkyline - I like the Sprint track over the Clubman. Maybe we can do all 3 if we have a full day event?? Cheers Peter

I'm with Cubes. Use a mineral oil for the first 1000. I've done two run in's of late and both used mineral for the bedding in. Synthetic is too good at lubricating the bore. You need the pistons to scrape the honing marks from the bore and bed with the walls. If the oil is too slippery and you end up with a varnishing effect on the walls and loose power through blow-by. Multi filter changes are recommended to remove any contaminates from the oil.

No - rotors don't need machining before fitting. You will however have to bed them in - just like new pads. Generally takes around 100km's. You may find your braking performance is reduced until they have bedded. Have fun.

Hey Paul, Any news on those photos. Thanks Mate

K-Mart !!! Had the same trouble looking for one for my car originally. K-Mart had plenty of the large ones - cheap too.

Thanks Paul, I'll let you know as soon as I can. Zero -Nil- Nada -Zip Just be careful Paul doesn't have you waiving a flag somewhere.

Queensland Raceway are agents for Dunlop mototrsport

Hey Paul, Finally got the car back on the road yesterday. Have a week or two of bedding in and final tune up to come. Can I confirm with you in about two weeks. If not - let me know - I will probably come out for a look see. Cheers Peter

You are all missing the point. The underlying fact is that this product also makes you more attractive to women. By installing it in your car (and forgetting the fact you could risk serious damage), your sex life will be fantasic. Small children will look up to you as their hero. You will instantly befriend any animal you come across and all of your friends will envy you. Spend the money - live the life you have always dreamed of!!!

I'd support that one as well

Always liked the idea of the old garage "pit" which allows you to work under the car - If you are building - cheaper than a hoist. Have it set up so that you can cover the hole with heavy duty timbers if you need to.

$55-00 for a licence. You then pay whatever the fee for the event is. Saturday sprints are about $95-00 ($75-00 if pre-paid). Check out the costs on the entry forms on the Queensland Raceway website.

Initially he was going to get me to spring for it - act of god he called it. Thing was - it was his decision to re-use. Could have turned out nasty, but he has come good and is paying for the new block, all labour and all machining. As it turns out there is a fair bit salvagable from the blow up. I am paying for 3 new pistons, bearing and gaskets and of course bolts. Not too bad considering - just pissed off that I have to go through the whole bedding process again. Haven't been on the track now for nearly 4 months. <_<

Engine/Car: R33 GTR Type of failure: Rod bolt breakage Factors influencing the failure: During final dyno tuning from rebuild - reused rod bolts State of tune of the engine: approx 700bhp (fly) Suspension and tyres: Ohlins / Eibach running Dunlop D02g's Oil used and service interval: Motul Race Oil General comments: Spent forever waiting for parts. Finally got it back together. Bedded the engine for 2 weeks (gently). Back for final tune and lost 3 pistons through the wall of the block and straight through the sump. This one went BANG and caught fire - put it out immediatley. Being rebuilt back to where I was before this failure - now using ARP race bolts!!

Engine/Car: R33 GTR Type of failure: Pistons through detonation Factors influencing the failure: Suspect fuel State of tune of the engine: approx 500bhp (fly) Suspension and tyres: Ohlins / Eibach running Dunlop D02G's Oil used and service interval: Motul Race Oil (change after every track run) General comments: Melted 2 pistons, pound the bearings to the point they went through the turbos. Had the fuel checked and was fairly inconclusive. Checked fuel pumps and filters for leaning out but found nothing. For the rebuild we made fairly sure to cover most things - sump baffle kit, rocker cover baffle kit, CP pistons, race rings and bearings, oil gallery restrictor, race gaskets, new cams and gears, ported head, N1 pumps (oil and water)

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