maccattack

Hi from Peter

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=84571&hl=

Switch on the left (near PFC handset) is an aerial switch. Extends aeriel to half or full extension. Other switch on the right is for mirrors - positioning and for folding back against the car.

Ok, I've read a number of threads regards fuel pumps and flow rates, in-tank, in-line etc. and the more info I get, the more confused I have become. Here is the situation - I have just completed a rebuild which should see somewhere approaching 700bhp (flywheel). I currently have a standard GTR pump. I am about to install 700cc injectors. I do a reasonable amount of track work in the car. From what I understand, there are not too many in-tank pumps that would support these horsepower numbers. Similarly, if they did, it could end up swirling the fuel and dragging air anyway, irresepctive of the surge potential. I have been told I should go to a surge tank for the fuel and am looking at mounting one under the rear of the car (quieter and no fuel smell) Questions are - 1. What size in tank pump should I be using for the lift. 2. What size in-line pump should then be used. 3. Who sells up-side-down surge tanks Thanks all

Jase, Wouldn't mind seeing the in-car video. What sort of size is the file?? Peter

Jase, Might be able to pop out and say g'day. Just got the car back today - so no racing till I get it bedded in. Kick ass if I don't see you there.

EBC Greenstuff pads. Not too bad a pad for standard street use and have a very low dust formulation. Not too expensive either.

No problem at all. I run 275's on 9 rims on my GTR. Probably about as wide as you would want to go, but I have had no problems at all. No stupid overhangs.

The Toluene was in the Fast4's comparison not this one

This article may assist. http://aus300zx.neuralmotion.com.au/tech/octane.htm I have also seen the Fast4's article - but can't seem to find it now. Compares about 10 different octane boosters (including Toluene).

I can't see the point in many of these threads that compare new cars (or at least a car which is a number of years newer) to "stock" skylines. It is common knowledge to everyone that GTR's were de-tuned and speed limited when they left the factory. Just about everyone that owns a GTR has modified it since they got it or are driving a previously modified car. I know myself that as soon as I made a number of basic modifications, I had a completely different car. On thinking back, when I first drove my car stock, it was fairly lame in the performance stakes. Like many GTR's it is under constant (or at least as constant as my wallet allows) development to make it quicker, faster and more durable. STI's ARE bloody quick straight out of the box. I don't think they are generally quicker than GTR's though, but on some tracks they will win out. My personal opinion is that GTR's are faster and quicker, but it seems pointless comparing stock to stock, as in its original form (GTR's were hamstrung when they were released).

I'm pretty sure Mt Cotton hill climb and Noosa hill climb are CAMS events. Similarly, if you wanted to progress to full class racing, a CAMS license is required. The track does not need to be a CAMS track to run a CAMS event.

Have a read of this thread - probably most of your questions answered. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=68174&hl=

Hey Jase, Great times mate. Sorry I couldn't make it - car is still not back together (maybe this week). Hopefully it won't be too long before I can get back out and have fun. Cheers

Thanks Bobjones, Pretty much what my mechanic had told me however I have been reading a number of articles about faster bedding methods (which the authors claim - work like a charm every time). As I do monthly track work in my car and have been waiting patiently for the build to be complete - I am rather impatient and want to get back onto the track as soon as spossible. Similarly, I have been driving around in a piece of sh1t for about 6 weeks now and can't wait to find out how the mods made during the build feel at full noise. In saying that - I don't wan't to stuff all the good work of a full re-build by going about bedding the engine the wrong way. Perhaps I have been looking for the "magic wand" method - which will get me back into it immediately. Patience is a virtue they say.

From what I understand though, is that it needs to be shit first up. You actually want the rings to "scrape" the walls and take off the minute score marks from boring and to "bed" with the walls. This is then drained after a relatively short amount of time and all of the associated crap is drained away with it. If the oil is too good, the rings will simply "slide" against the bore wall and eventiually glaze up. This will produce a poor seal and you will loose compression. The point is however, which is the BEST method of bedding an engine - quick or slow??

Hi all, Just looking for a bit of input on running in a new (re-built ) engine. There seems to be a fair amount of variation on the most appropriate method for running in. All seem to agree on running a low friction coefficient oil (generally mineral) to start with, to allow the bore to be scraped down without glazing, then changing to a better quality (syn or semi-syn) after the first oil change. Some advocate short run in times - ie: 2-3 controlled dyno runs and your right to go. Others advise on taking around 2000-3000 klms of restricted RPM's and heaps of engine loading and rev variation along the way. I know you have to be careful not to glaze the bore otherwise you can end up losing power through blow by. Anyone who has run in an engine - how did you go about it and what where the results? Thanks

The Toyo's are a great "cold start" tyre. On the track they are awesome for the first 2-3 laps. From that point on they go off like "Mums pants on Father's Day". Excellent hill climb tyre and for street -the only thing to look out for would be to make sure they are not overworked too much. A lot of high speed continuous cornering would see them go off. Once they do, they become very "squidgy". Good tyre though - except they will probably wear fairly quickly.

Paul & Tim, May have to bail on this one as I don't think the engine will be ready by then. Hopefully, I can get out for a look. Thanks Guys - should be at the one following

Parag0n, Probably best to do a search as there has been plenty on this lately. I use Brisbane Tuning & Turbo Centre 3393 1588. Highly recommend them. Tell them Peter refered you. Good blokes.

I have a brand new R33 GTR N1 block (still in the crate) in perfect condition. I will sell it for the same I paid for it $3600-00. If anyone is interested, I need to know by tomorrow - otherwise it gets returned to Nissan. Peter

Generally not. Front will cop heaps more abuse than the rears ever will. Have them checked out, but if this is the first change for the fronts, I would doubt the rears will need replacing at this stage.

http://europeancarweb.com/tech/0503ec_techboost/

http://www.queenslandraceway.com.au

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