maccattack

Try http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/. They always seem to have plenty of gear. Have never used them, so can't vouch at all. Cheers.

When I bought my car I had John from Brisbane Tuning & Turbo at Woolloongabba look it over. Very thorough, and have had him working on the car ever since. He always has 2 -3 skylines in the shop at any one time. Worth a call.

Hey all, Was surfing the web recently and came across the website www.exvitermini.com/. Has a number of drag and dyno runs for a number of cars including a R33 GTR. Nice one of it climbing off the dyno. Files aren't too big. Have a look, quite cool

Best thing to do is probably get them refurbished. I know in Brisvegas we have a number of firms who will repair and refurb rims. No doubt you have a hell of a lot more in Sydney. I just had a quick look on the web and found www.rebelwheels.com.au/ who look as though they do what you are looking for. No doubt if you have alook yourself you will find a few more. As far as cost, I had a rim repaired and repainted in Bris, which cost me $40. Looked brand new when they had finished with it.

I used to run the Azenis on one of the new Mini Cooper S's, and were looking to do the same with the GTR. Was talked into using the Toyo Proxes RA1's. These are unreal, some of the best tyres (on track) I have used. I haven't run dunlop R's yet (due to the cost) but these are litterly s**t to a blanket. Slightly more expensive than the Azenis, but seem to be a slightly softer compound and extremely good holding tyre. I think they will probably wear fairly fast, but worth it. Awesome

predator, the weight sits directly behind the airbag. Used to just hangs there on 4 little rubber straps, only 2 of my straps had broken. Easy enough to remove, just undo the 2 screws from the frame. Feels no different after taking it out, but stuffed if I know what it was for in the first place.

Bump. Does ANYONE know???

Hi Sydneykid, I have been having trouble accessing the performance metal craft site - but will keep trying. Every mechanic I have spoken with has told me the engine has to come out for sump work. Obviously, not having to take it out is going to save some bucks, but finding someone who can do it is the hard part. Is the work you did "standard" or is retrofitting on-car something beyond most mechanics? As I have mentioned earlier, ensuring my engine doesn't blow up is fairly paramount, and with my very very limited understanding of mechanics, I sort of rely on these types of forums for ammunition to speak with local workshops.

The HICAS certainly does give you that "I have no idea what's going on back there feeling" especially as speed increases. I had mine disconnected electronically, only because i didn't wan't the car to be straining against a "lock" mechanism. Centainly makes a difference with it turned off - and wouldn't even try taking it onto a track with it turned on.

Trouble is, dry sumping will cost you around $5000

I have since spoken with a couple more mechanics who say that while the Accusump is not the perfect solution, it's pretty good. To take out the engine is being quoted at around $1000-00 by itself. Sump mods vary from a couple of hundred dollar kit (which all are designed for street use) through to $2000-00 for the full sump extension / baffles / doors etc. So for a full "race ready" sump you are looking at about $3000-00 and car off the road for the mods from anything from 2-10 days (depending on whether they have an exchange sump which can be modified and swapped). The Accusump is supplied and fitted for around $700-00 and the engine does not have to come out. They all seems to say, that while it is not perfect, it's pretty bloody good. They are currently using them on a lot of Mustangs and Corvettes with great success. As one mechanic said, when you are upgrading your engine, and it NEEDS to come out, do the full sump mod's, otherwise this is a pretty good fix in the meantime.

I have been reading many of the recent posts regards sump mods required for taking a GTR onto the track and have since been doing the ring around to get some prices on what is needed (not cheap). I have recently been speaking with a mechanic that uses an Accusump (check it out at www.accusump.com/) in a race car. It would appear that it is an accumulator which deliveres oil at high (higher than standard) pressure to the engine as soon as it senses surge. Seems the hardest part of fitting one is -where do you put it - because the race version isn't small. The best part is you don't have to pull the engine out. As you fully charge the unit, you also have extra oil capacity (although it is only delivered as required) Has anyone ever used one or heard of someone who has? If these work as well as they say, then it is a hell of a lot cheaper than sump mods.

Hey rb26dett, who is your mechanic? $200-300 sounds bloody cheap. I NEED to get mine done ASAP and am currently trying to get some pricing. Thanks

Is it possible to install sump baffles / change sump without removing the engine???

Apparently the engine has to come out to take the sump off. Does anyone know what it is worth to fit baffles??

Recently I had a clunking sound in my steering column as I went over bumps or when I turned the steering wheel more than 180 degrees. I had read in previous threads regards the small semi-circular weights in some steering wheels, but mine had the weight suspended by small rubber straps in a frame attached to the upper quadrant of the steering wheel. I have also read in other threads that once these break, people simply remove them (as I did) - problem solved - no more clunk. My questions is however, what are they for. As someone recently said.. they wouldn't put these things in there for nothing. Anyone know??

Give Steve Calverly a call on 0411 873 055. He installs car stereos and alarms and will come to you. He installed a Mongoose system in my car with 3 point imobilisers, window lifters, sensor alrms etc., etc. He can give you prices on most systems and is good at what he does. No hesitation in recommending him.

Thanks guys, much appreciated :thankyou:

I have checked a lot of the previous threads regards remote oil coolers but I can't seem to find anyone speaking of specific brands. I have an R33 GTR which I take onto the track when I can, and oil temp is the main bugbear. I am looking to fit a remote oil cooler, but am just wondering if I can get some feedback as to which ones are the best. Thanks

Thoroughly recommend John from Brisbane Tuning and Turbo at Woolloongabba

iijj, give john at Brisbane Tuning & Turbo a call. Had mine replaced not so long ago - his prices are very reasonable.

Yeh, I'm looking to get to the Super Sprints on Saturday but wanted to get a little testing in first. Just have to wait and see.

Fingers crossed, because it's the only TT this week.

Hi lazybastard, I'm planning on going out but just keeping an eye on the weather. If it's relatively dry, I'll be there otherwise I'll bail. Maybe I'll see you there and say hello.

After having a clutch replaced no too long ago, I asked my mechanic about a similar (slight) crunch going into 5th. My concern was gearbox but he mentioned that the parts quite often become glazed after prolonged use and recommended running a deglazing compound with the oil for approx 1 week, then change back to your regular oil. Apparently this usually does the trick.