maccattack

$250-00

Hey Col, Cannon Hill shopping centre - saw you after I passed. Thanks for the toot. Catch up next track day. Cheers Peter

Daniel, I have bought cars interstate before (last one from Perth) and freighted it with TNT Carfreight -(cost about $600-00 from Perth to Brisbane). If you are buying from a reputable car firm, then generally you would have no problems. Really no different from buying locally. If they are going to try and stiff you interstate, they will try and stiff you locally as well. For the like of a skyline however, I would probably be asking a the forum for names of performance shops / mechanics who could do a pre-purchase inspection for you. Get them to send you the report before you buy. Good luck.

What is the original file format?? There is no sense getting a PDF generated from the BMP beacuse the resolution will be crap.

I run an ARC box and 350rkw is not the limit. I'm not too sure where you heard this, but it is not the case. I can't tell you what it is, but it is certainly not 350rkw.

Harry, I think you are right. Perhaps it will open a new can of worms. At the end of the day, it's just you against the track and your own time. Most people who go to the Time Attack days have a pretty good idea of the other cars out there and how you and your own car compares. As Paul mentioned, there are plenty of owners who drive very similar cars, but are seconds apart. Whilst it is good for an ego stroke, when its all over, no one wins a million dollars. We all go home and say, shit I drove that fairly hard but I should of done this or that and my time would have been better. I don't really think classifications will ever (in everyones eyes) be fair. As Harry said, you will always get someone abusing the rules. I know myself, that there are a few guys out there who will kick my arse hard every time we go out - but who cares. I'm driving to my own (limited) ability and having fun. There is always (and I mean always) going to be times when someone betters our times, irrespective of mods, horsepower, weight, ability, etc, etc, etc. We can all only do the best we can - and have fun doing it.

The main thing on the track with HICAS is that with the rear end steering you tend to get a sort of "numb" feeling from the back of the car. When you are cornering hard, you tend to "feel" the back end of the car through your seat. You can tell when the back wheels (usually) are starting to slide. When HICAS engages, you tend to loose that feeling. If not completely, it certainly deadens the feeling. It is not that it makes it any harder to steer, you simply lose touch with the road.

I think everything so far is spot on. About the only thing I would add is that cars also be tagged ® Race or (S)Street. I don't think you need re-classify anyone (ie: more groups) simply a denotion beside their times. (S)Street would denote that it is a fully registered road car. ®Race is anything else. It just gives people more information regards time comparisons as there is generally a fair weight variation in cars.

Don't worry about holding people up. The days are organsied so that people of similar times are on the track together. You may start off in a group that is slightly faster or slower than you. This is generally corrected by shifting you into a more suitable group after your first run. There is overtaking, but in reality is is not overly common. If the groups are set right, everyone - irrespective of what they are driving, will be doing fairly similar times. Once you start getting used to it, chasing and being chased are the best parts - tends to make you drive a little harder. I know a few people who also say "I'll look like an idiot if my times are too slow". It's definitely not the case. Everyone who goes out has to start somewhere. It is understood and encouraged. Go and have a run. You'll love it.

Keep your pressure where they are. You are right about rolling a tyre off the rim, which can happen if pressures with street tyres are too low and you catch a ripple strip at the wrong angle. 35-40psi ensures you have good sidewall tension and don't get the tyre folding under itself.

Empty - PM sent

Thanks Jyo, As you say - hopefully catch up next time. I have attached a couple of photos for you all. Sorry about the quality - I'll upgrade them soon. Peter

What condition is it in??

Thanks Michael, Yeah - unfortunately it probably owes me way too much. Mind you, I'm sure most GTR's with a power increase suffer from the same fate. It is however my every day driver but adapts nicely for the track.

Unfortunately I crushed my side pipe (I think when I went over a ripple strip) and went from about 3 inch diameter to about 1 1/2 inches. No doubt it was doing wonders for back pressure. Didn't know until I took it off. No idea exactly when I did it though. Love the colour of your car - the yellow looks good.

Hey guys, Yeah I'm the black '33 with the white workies. I'll take a couple of photos and post them up for you. Probably best to speak with Paul (Mountain Runner) re pricing as I'm not sure if he has upgraded the unit already or not.

Some of you may have read about Paul Ruzic (MountainRunner) building and (now selling) four wheel drive controllers for GTR's. I purchased a unit from Paul and was "testing" it in the car on yesterdays Time Attack day at QR. I thought I would provide some feedback for anyone pondering a purchase. May I first start by saying that I drive my car fairly hard on track days but by no means would I consider myself a fantastic driver. In honesty, I have trouble being able to really tell the difference between various sway bar and suspension settings, tyre pressures etc. I tend to check the tyres before I go out and then drive it like you stole it. My Kahunas aren't big enough to take corner one at the speed I think it should be taken at. The controller allows you to store and use (through a toggle switch) 2 seperate "maps". These maps are variations on the way the car normally responds to the signals comming from the G sensor. Because you have so much variation, it is somewhat overwhelming as to what maps to use. I started with an aggressive 4WD map (say map 1) and a map which is slightly more aggressive than the way the car reacts as normal (map 2). I perhaps wasn't using the toggle switch as much as I should beacuse once I had started driving the car with the system using map 1, I got so used to it, and liked it, that I didn't want to play with the toggle. The car still switched between 2 wheel and 4 wheel mode, but it switches to 4WD so early and seamlessly that you don't even feel the transfer. Corners, both low and high speed, became (for me) much more controllable. I used to come onto the straight in 3rd gear feathering the throttle to maintain boost, basically streering with the back wheels. Now you can come onto the straight in a full 4 wheel powerslide and you can "feel" exeactly what the car is doing. Paul wanted me to try toggling more. My initial thoughts were that I would use less agressive 4WD in high speed sweeper corners an more aggressive in the low speeds. Pauls idea was the exact reverse so I hooked throught turns 1 & 2 using map 1 and then switched to map 2 for the "flip flops". I was so used to driving the car in its new configuration that I lost the back end as soon as I went into the corner. Straight away, I went back to map 1 and full controll. As it turned out I shaved a second off my times for the clubman and national circuits. Admittedly I changed back to a tyre I preferred, but I am sure I can keep the times coming down. As an overview, so far as the controller goes - I'm wrapped. I still have a fair bit of mucking around to do to really get to know it but the level of 4WD controll is awesome. Whilst I can't drift my car, I can pull off some awesome power slides at the moment. If you are looking at a 4WD controller for your car, DEFINITELY consider Pauls unit. You are more than welcome to check out the quality of the unit in my car. The more I use it the more info I will post. Cheers

the average mortal would never know the difference in its driving performance - I doubt that even the odd god could tell the difference.

Lindsay, Would agree with the Motul recommendation for fuluid. I would be very careful with cross drilled rotors on a GTR. I put DBA4000's onto my car (at a rep's recommendation) and shattered both the fronts on my second track outing. Currently use the 5000 series but any solids will probably be better than cross drilled. I used to use Endless pads but these are getting a little expensive. Since changed to Hawk race pads which are very good both cool and hot.

Harley, You really need to take into account what you want from your car. Most GTR's (here anyway) are used as daily drivers. I like to use mine more for track work rather than drags or dyno. I have it set up so I get reasonably early power, but not MONSTER power which would see me with more lag down low. The highger your horsepower requirements (generally) the higher your lag. I have mine built firstly for reliability and secondly for performance. Forged internals would be mandatory for reliability and power. Also if you are going near the track, get a race sump - not a street sump which most of the performance houses sell. I still use a single plate clutch which is a delight to drive with and has held up extremely well on the track. I can't stress enough to work out what it is you really want to do with the car before you start your build. Good luck.

Mine

lxss, I must say that generally people buy cars for (probably not a specific purpose, but with a purpose of sorts in mind). When I bought my car it was to have a faster car I can use for track work. The GTR fit the bill in many ways, especially bang for buck. As people on this thread have already stated (and I can vouch for it 100%) is that a minimally - or not at all - modified GTR which is well maintained will give you years of trouble free pleasure. Start modifying (and more specifically increasing power) and to some extent your maintenance / repair costs will escalate accordingly. Don't get me wrong, they are still a damned solid / strong car, but the higher the horsepower, the higher the ongoing costs will become. So ulimately it is up to you as to whether you are happy with the power of the car as is, or (like most with not only GTR's but any skyline) quest for just that bit more. Go the GTR, but as has been said before - make sure you can afford it.

Stainless dumps are made of thinner material than the standard cast dumps. They do tend to resonate more, not only because of the airflow but sound from the engine. You will always get a change in engine note with stainless dumps.

Yeah, I run the Super Induction box. Comments as per NickR33. Would say it flows better than stock most definitely. They are a very well made unit. The GTR one has intake via the top panel and a side panel. Probably more robust than a stock unit.

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....152670&st=0