maccattack

Dave, Hunting problem I had ages ago was blamed on the aircon thermo switch. From what I was told - is fairly common.

Beef, I have been using Royal Purple 10W40 for a while now - ever since my last blow up. After spinning bearings my mechanic did a little research to ensure we were using the best oil available. From his feedback, a lot of the high horsepower guys are using Royal Purple because of its friction coefficient and is an ash free synthetic. Fairly expensive (especially when you have an extended sump), but so far so good.

Sounds like "Tuner Nuts". Check out the web for the keys. Had a quick look and founds these guys - look for tuner nut key - hope it helps www.speco.com.au/accnuts.html

Whilst I run a 33 GTR not a 32, really it is irrelevent. Your tyre selection as opposed to rim selection is far more important on the track. 16" rims a perfectly good for the track. The only restriction really that you have is the amount of rubber you can fit on them. Sell your good rims and run the 16's.

RE the choice of oil...there are many reasons for and against why x oil is better then y oil....or why x oil doesnt cut it for some applications. I dont want to turn this into an oil shitfight I can understand where you are coming from with this comment however, I would look at this (and by the sound of things you don't have too much to worry about at this stage) as a wake-up warning. Often people ask - "What sort of helmet should I buy". The answer is always - the best you can afford, because you are buying it to save your life in an accident - not for looks. The same can be said for oil. You buy it to stop damaging your engine. I have had a number of blow ups in my car - the last blamed on an oil not up to the task at hand. I now use an oil (that frankly costs a sh1tload) but it is far, far cheaper than having to rebuild the engine (again). Make up your own mind regards what brand you want to use - but just make sure it is right for the application.

Sure is. Contact High Octane Racing in Sydney. They will organise one through Performance Metalcraft. Basically you send them your existing sump (after having removed the diff), they modify it (including the oil pick up) and send it back. Takes about 2 weeks. Costs about $2K. Would have to be one of the (if not the) best around bar dry sumping.

Done

Nissan sells N1 blocks - around $3000 - just ring them. I picked one up from Nissan last year just by ringing the local parts division.

The RON values of fuel are nothing more than an indication of its anti-knock characteristics. The higher the RON value the higher the anti-knock. This has nothing to do with running leaner or richer.

Sand back any flaking paint with wet and dry - clean down with a pre-cleaner (wax and oil remover - prepsol, etc) then spray away. Let it dry and then heat cycle it to fully cure.

Parts and delivery only. The rest is up to you. Generally if the part is less than $1000-00 you don't pay duty. No GST is payable.

Selling 4 used track tyres. Still have some tread left and could be used for at least a couple of track days. Tyres are Dunlop Direzza D02G's 255/40/17's. Have just put new rubber onto my track rims and were given these back again. Price is $200 for the 4. Prefer pickup - located in Brisbane.

I repainted my a while ago exactly the same. The stencil I had made by a sign shop. I can send you the Brembo artwork and then simply give them the file and tell them that you are wanting a stencil for painting. I did find a stencil kit you can buy, however that was out of the UK. Painted mine using VHT black with silver "Brembo". Went over it all with a high temp clear coat however the clear coat perishes every time I go on the track so I simply wiped it all off. VCHT has been great ever since.

As you say the hats are seperate so the disc is a floating disc on the 5000's. This also allows far better heat dissipation as well as replacing only the rotor and bolts as opposed to the entire disc and hat. Big tip is (if using the 4000's), never get the cross drilled if you are taking them onto the track. I had some put on (at the recommendation of the supplier) and shattered both front rotors on my second run. 5000's have been pretty good so far.

Just sounds like they did not install the check valve. Quite often performance shops / mechanics leave the check valve out so as not to impede fuel flow in any way - as the check valve generally has a smaller diameter. Just means the fuel system does not hold pressure without the pump running, hence you have to re-pressurise the fuel lines before you can start the car. If it gives you the sh1ts, have them install a check valve (one way valve) - problem fixed.

As everyone has said, it depends on what you are wanting - stopping or no dust. Unfortunately you can't have both. If it is no -dust, try the EBC Greenstuff pads. Not the best thing for the track (although some use them there), but they are sold as a "Dustless" brake pad. Not a bad street pad, and definitely very little brake dust.

Done it before with no problem. Had a screw hanging out of a track tyre the morning of a track day. So long as the mend is professionally plugged and not on the sidewall seam, you should have no problems. Just don't try mending it yourself.

At least if it is done tastefully 'cough cough' as in this image http://image-cache.boostcruising.com/datab...81507337350.jpg

Blow-by - loss of compression and power

Hi Kaylene and welcome. Now that you are a GTR owner - I hope you don't mind stayting poor. I was speaking with a performance shop recently who said "GTR's are like heroin - once you start you can't stop" Best of luck with your new toy - I'm sure you will be as happy as I am (and as poor). Cheers

Gary, Your wealth of knowledge never ceases to amaze

Yes, head has been ported and polished with full bench testing, Tomei Poncams and gears Especially at the moment. Scored the journals on the cranks which meant I needed a new one - trouble is, Nissan ran out of GTR cranks in November and no-one yet knows when thay are going to start making any more. No doubt they will, but when. I waited 6 weeks and finally found one through a GTR forum in the UK. Aparently these are the SH1T!!

Gav's sump is through Hi Octane Racing and are built by Performance Metalcraft (I've got one too). Interior has windage doors made from metal plate and are exceptionally well made. Cost (by the time you add freight etc) is close to $2K. I had been running a Tomei kit along with an Accusump and gallery restrictor plug and recently spun bearings. From what I have been told, many of the off the shelf articles are great for street but are not designed for track - and cannot cope. I had considered getting someone else to make the sump extension (a little cheaper) but these guys have been doing this for some time and have been through the experimentation phase already. The sumps they build are supposed to be as good as you can get prior to going to a dry sump. Capacity goes to about 8 litres for the GTR. Engine is going back together now so I'll get to try it out before too long.

hahahahahahaha - love it

Not if they are the only one in the world at the moment who actually have the part you are after