Candyman69

actuator won't crack thats why you have a regulator to cut pressure at set psi die grinder?? what you want him to grind out his waste gate port.? would prob delay initial boost build up as exhaust gases will leak even when waste gates closed. if it boosts fine without solenoid connected theres the obvious problem could be a wiring faulty to the solenoid or the solenoid itself. (solenoid is bleeding all the air out instead of feeding it to the actuator) what was you psi setting before this hapend (max boost)

ecu gets reading from map sensor. boost level is set through duty cycle/gain on boost map, solenoid will bleed off air until set psi is reached then will divert air to actuator opening waste gate. to test actuator spring pressure you will need a compressor or air pump with a regulator and a gauge. fit to actuator line and pump up until actuator opens then get the reading from the gauge.

idle control valve mayb? may need to clean/replace or tps

did you mark cas before you took it off so u can align when you reinstall it? when you say you striped it down then started it you would of taken of the cas to get cam cover off. my 2 cents is you may have put it on out of align hence the reason why when you started it the timing was out causing the big puff off smoke and belt nearly coming off as the belt should be rotating smoothly unless you touched the tensioner.

check all vacuum hoses and inlet pipes for leaks. cas bolts are tight as adjustment can cause similar symptoms, could be faulty afm

how long does it idle initially before it dies? does it idle erratically? what fuel system do you have set up? standard reg? more info on engine setup may help

still need to know if its just boost spike or constant over boost? are your ports to solenoid configured correctly? where are you getting your vacuum feed from to port 3 (middle port) should be as close to the turbo as possible for accurate readings. i know some gt3076 have nipples directly on the turbo but some don't. If you are getting it from the intake manifold i would recommend tapping a nipple as close to the turbo as possible as your solenoid will be getting a delayed reading. Also can get a big pressure drop through intercooler. could be causing the spike in boost pressure

over boost! leaking vacuum hose to wastegate.. or fuct wastegate. if its just spiking then going back to a lower boost level and holding steady could be your boost control. when boost comes on hard at such a fast rate it can spike before the boost control system can correct it. what boost control do you have?

haltech plugins run off all the factory sensor's included MAF (mass air flow sensor) unless the volume of air entering through the air flow meter exceeds its measurement capacity. Which is when you disregard the afm and opt for a MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure).so I'm guessing you will have a map. (vacuum hose from the manifold directly to your ecu) I'm just wondering if you don't have an air temp sensor you wouldn't get the most accurate tune would u? yes it could be boost spike so you need to see what your boostin at 3000rpm being a gt30/76 i wouldn't think it would be at full boost 3000rpm on an rb25det unless you have a very small turbine housing i may be wrong what boost control do you have? i would check/replace vacuum hose to waste gate as it sounds like it could have a leak. or actuator could be buggerd. is it internal or external waste gate?

so does it have a map and air temp sensor? miss fire will generally be more erratic and not at a specific rpm. When you say huge miss fire does it feel like it cuts out? misfires are generally less aggressive as it sounds with you what psi is it at 3000rpm? what turbine housing size? waste gate? boost control? vct working? has is always been like this since ownership or just recently? need more info bout your car my friend

lol yea looks like no1 does.. oh well ill have to try do some more research. Might ring a customs broker on monday or something.

looking for the cheaper option with a non turbo shell. If i find a turbo shell for a reasonable prise i will for sure. Any idea how much it is to cert?

I am planing a trip to japan in the next couple months and i really want to get info on sending a container back home to australia. i have a group of friends who wish to put in an order for multiple engines and parts if i can source them. I have a contact over there who has a garage, truck, tools etc and will help me dissemble and pack everything. My question is not directly for cost to ship container (but if anyone has info would be much appreciated) but more toward cost getting through customs etc. Will i be allowed to bring that much parts over personally without being a registered importer with an abn in aus? Do i need proof i am not importing to resell? if i do need a licence how do i acquire one and at what cost? any info will be much appreciated

what if i were to put it into a silvia. would it be a straight forward roadworthy or would i need to get a cert being a different motor from original?

A mate has written off his r33 25t and has sold me engine drivetrain brakes etc. i am interested in finding a cheap non turbo shell i.e skyline, silvia or cefiro to convert into. What process do i have to go through to get the car back on the road in terms of roadworthy and ergo .If i get a non turbo body, will i have any issues? What sort of cost will i be looking at if a cert is needed? any info regarding this will be much appreciated.