nicksamaniac

The material removed from the head would make no noticeable difference to how it feels or drive's, It may possibly feel a bit more crispy than before due to being a tighter engine after rings etc. As for honing, it will need some form of hone before fitting new rings as they need somthing to bed into. If you just assemble it as is, it will just burn oil and have heaps of blowby eventually. And if you do it at home, the block WILL need a PROPER wash after, degrease, scrub, scrub some more, pressure wash, scrub all the little nooks (requires special cleaning brushes, like gun cleaning tool's) degrease again, oiling etc. Its not just a case of hone and wipe! If you get a shop to do it, they can put the h6 finish (or what ever its called, cant remember) on the block to seal the gasket, power hone it to give the 100% correct cross hatch angle, and bath the block, it will look 100% brand new! And work also!

Ok, next question, does anyone know where to source an r33 style ecu plug? I have a stock manual tune gtst r33 ecu here. Ill just re-pin the plug to use it. Or- Is the s1 c34 ecu nistune-able? Or can I use a r34 neo power fc? Im so over this issue I'm just going to buy an ecu with a manual tune!

I updated the app this morning and still not connecting.

Somebody correct me if im wrong? But if temp sensor (ecu temp sensor) is open circuit, wont it just assume a standard running temp and it wont add cold start enrichment or cold start timing? I had chronic cold start issues on a rb30et I used to own, would crank for 40+ sec before stumbling into life followed by 1/2hr of very poor running. it was the engine ecu temp sensor, and it didnt run right.

can confirm this (to a point, as I don't fully understand the whole logic pfc uses) mine will show 22-24' timing on the controller during warm up, But the timing map cells show 15' and 17' in the cells it idles on. So- it must change timing during idle condition and warm up conditions.

Just an update, after receiving abit of feedback from stao, and abit of a web search, Turns out my current turbo is a 0.58 rear and not a 0.63 that its advertised as! No wonder it spools up uber fast. He said its common for them to be 58's re-stamped as 63 rears.

If the idler and tensioner are both mounted against a flat machined (square) surface then it will track correctly, It will only walk off if somthing is guiding it off -ie some parts is not square to the rest of the setup.

Price!!!!!! Vl owners think the genuine (and not so great) ones are solid gold! Genuine VL A8 =big $ Any other rb30= cheap as chips! The VL turbo was some silly 7ish:1 comp ratio? You could run it on dynamite without knock. It had shorter pin hight pistons than the n/a version.

We use venturies on our mining equipment to vac out the dust collectors on the air filter box's, but the actual venturi pipe is located just inside the tip of the exhaust, so as the gas expands out it creates a negative at the end of the vac pipe, It took quite a bit of trial and error to find the perfect distance from the tip, but it wont inside the exhaust near the turbo with that much pipe left!

With lube on the thread you will get higher thread pressures than if it was dry, thread paste (loctite silver grade) will give much higher clamping pressure then oil @ the same torque settings.

In my s1 c34 manual swap I used an r32 gtr box, r31 RB30 flywheel,- arp bolts. r31 valeo/extreme clutch, cushion button kit, it was only $400 delivered from sunbury brakes, Feels like a standard clutch to drive. (organic flywheel side, brass button pressure plate side, sprung center) I have the exact same kit in my patrol with RB30DET, with 250hp atw And massive (wheel lifting) torque, And has been pushing 2.2 tonne and 35" tires. So they can take abit !

Ive had similar issue with an rb30et It started as a random miss every few drives, usually happened when hot/in traffic. I assumed it was a failing coil, due to hot conditions etc. But after a coil change and no fix! It then evolved into a random engine stopping like yours, it would be 100% good then just like it was turned off, come to a stop, wait a few mins then all ok again, no fault codes either. Then one day it just failed to start, followed by cas fault code. Replaced the cas, never faulted again.

Bump, still have this going on.

Yes it is an lpg tank (old pic), its not on gas anymore, was bought on gas planning on lpg turbo but was always chasing the tune. So I decided to go back to fuel, then it just ended up with a twin cam head somehow!

35"x12.5" Bias-ply comp tires on 8"x 16" bead locked steel rims. No chrome here pal!!! And a pic of my current turbo.

And for the record, no way would I run stupid chrome wheels on my 4by. ITs 80% for bush use the other 20% is on the road to get to the bush!

Yes its 2100-2200kg, the 4.2l version are about 27-2800kg. Obviously its going to be slower then a skyline! But its still quicker (a sh!t load quicker) then a stock patrol!

Sorry, but I have to disagree with some of what you've suggested. I Can't use a low mount as they have major plumbing issues against the chassis rail due to how the motor sits between instead of on top of a crossmember. With the gearing it has? It does the same rpm vs km/hr as my rs4 Stagea with r32 GTR box in it. These are both the same box. (internally) The only difference is component size, drive shaft, axles etc. The 4.9:1 diffs are only there to gear it back to standard with the larger wheels. So they both do 2550rpm @ 100km/hr. Its really not that heavy compared to the diesel versions. 2200kg approx.

Soon as I've got a new turbo and tuned again I'll let yas know the results.

Just to add another part to the whole equation? Would going from the 0.63 to an 0.82 or 1.06 improve my very very poor economy? After reading up further on engine ve and turbo back pressure causing a reduction in ve, this is another area I would love to improve on! The 17/100 is just crap!

Yeah after speaking with a forum member, who has been very insightful and extremely helpful. I've decided to try a gt3037 with 0.82 ar rear. I'm thinking this will still give good low end response with the newer design over my sh!!y little t04e, And hopefully still flow ok up top. Again Im not after outright hp, more just good drivability. Thanks again for the info/feedback guys.

Hi mate, do you still have any of this gear for sale?

That's a nice thought, but starting at $2200 its nearly half what my car is worth! Was really thinking around the $1000-$1200 Mark. That's why I was considering the hyper-gear unit. Also linear power delivery isn't really needed off road, even with the small setup I have now it doesn't even make boost in low range. Even with my previous "whole lotta" 75hp it still climbed everything I pointed it at whilst just above idle. Reduction is a beut thing! Really the only time big power is requested is during highway speed, usually 80-120km/hr. Overtaking slow stuff and uphills, the rest of the time is just to get the big bus off the line and keep up with traffic easy, without big revs everytime. Hence why I'm after easy low-ish rpm boost but big enough to keep up at 5500-6000rpm. (if it's needed)

Also for info sake, this car weighs 2100kg wet. (scales at the rta/truck inspection) The diesel/petrol 4.2l variants weigh closer to 2800. And most heavy modded versions are well over 3000kg. So it's not far behind a Stagea really.

1stly, thanks for all the feedback! 2nd, yes you are correct, I wrote in the post incorrectly, it's 6' extra overlap not separation, I closed the gap- this gave about 500-600rpm lower boost threshold. 3rd, the reason I have gone the RB route is because A, it's awesome! B, it came with the RB in it (rb30s) The other versions use different setup and parts. C, it makes it more car like with the broader power band instead of like a truck that revs to 3500. D, I don't like the 45, its old technology, and have you priced a tb48? (they must be made of gold?) E, the FS5R30A is much more refined to drive as opposed to the FS5R50A. Also yes, budget is one thing, having a family, house and the like is my main money outgoing, so I've made alot of the parts myself. Mechanical, electrical, fabrication etc. But just to add, just because it's budget doesn't mean it's dodgey junk! Some of the bits may be Chinese, but the car is well put together. (hasn't let me down yet!)