nicksamaniac

The ATR43-TX3 from hyper gear looks the part I need, rated 400-600hp. G1 profile -400hp with .63 rear Would this provide aggressive response and still be ok up to about 5500rpm? Most of my driving is 1500-4500rpm With the occasional 6900 overtaking and lights-lights drive maneuver!

How would a gt3076 0.63rear go? Would it give positive pressure around 2000rpm and still flow enough to supply 15psi at 6-7000rpm?

I'm using an r31 block,pistons. Originally 9.0:1 static. R32 rb25de head, 62cc chambers. Slightly skimmed when it was freshened up. 1.3mm head gasket. Cylinder pressure is 150psi exactly. So maybe 8.5:1 (ish?)

I've read that thread over a few times, nearly all state a model of turbo, some state the rear ar, but those are always 1.06 or somethin massive =lag monster with a sledgehammer power curve, I'm after info on boost threshold. Pretty much exactly what kiwiRS4t gave me! Also recommendations are welcome.

Just to start with, yes I've searched But have only found conflicting info. As in gt3037? But it comes with the options of 3 different rear housings? same as most Garrett units, hks, etc. I'm shopping for a new/bigger turbo, I have a RB30DET in a patrol wagon, Currently makes 244hp atw, but with this nasty Chinese t04e (0.63ar rear)I'm running, it has to much back pressure and boost drops off over 6000rpm. I'm not chasing power, just want good low down response that will flow enough for roughly 300-350hp? My tuner said it will make more power at the same boost if the exhaust housing had less back pressure, My setup is stock 30 block, 25de head non vct, hi-mount manifold, tial 44mm Gate, 3" mandrel exhaust all straight through except 3" metal cat. Neo 25 injectors, stock (front facing- cut/shut) inlet, 2.5" cooler pipes, 600-300-75 fmic. What I want to know is with what turbo, and especially what size trim and a/r rear are people's engines making boost? As an example of what info I'm after - RB30DET, t04e .50com .63rear, pos pressure @1850rpm, full 15psi @2600rpm . So can people post? Engine, turbo, rear housing size, rpm which you see boost, rpm you have full boost. Cheers.

My home built 30DET, in a gq wagon. R32 25de head, (no vct) de cams, 26 valve springs, Adjustable gears, Inlet -2' exhaust +4' to move torque lower. Home made steam pipe hi mount, Tial 44mm gate 3" exhaust, 3" cat, straight through mufflers. Chinese t04e, .63 rear. 2.5" cooler pipes, front facing stock inlet (cut/shut) Rb25 neo injectors Apexi power fc. R31 block, honed, stock rods, stock pistons, moly Hastings rings, acl race bearings, VL turbo oil pump. Mls-r 1.3mm head gasket. 244.3 hp atw on 33" tires and through a patrol drive line. 4.9:1 diff. Turbo is really crap and way to small to make more power but it's built for grunt. Not outright hp. Edit -the small power figure is my before run, n/a rb30 single cam on straight lpg. Was a sad thing to drive!

These 2 blocks I want gone are located In Muswellbrook NSW 2333. 1 is unopened, the other has had the head off.

I've got 2 30blocks I'm trying to get rid of, free if you come get it. Still have all rotating parts inside, all complete.

My Stagea just had its 240,000km service (every 5k oil and filter). Only things that's let me down is the rad started to leak from the tanks. I've done timing set and seals as a precaution, and water pump. Other than that it's the tightest and smoothest running car I've ever owned. No rattles or squeaks.

I don't really want to name and shame the store, they've been really helpful and have given me a full refund, He said he's going to return them to the supplier to check them out. Also they do sell some really good stuff for import cars.

$30 bucks each! You can buy tomei sets cheaper! These I bought were $370 delivered. But you get what ya pay for obviously!

We'll I've used non genuine lifters in all my other builds, (mostly holdens, 305 and 355 I've built) and never had a drama. Genuine Nissan is a rip off, they must be made from material from Saturn? Cos the price reflects as though it is.

No, non-genuine i bought from a store in Queensland, One of them actually had come apart as I removed it, the valve fell out of the body when I lifted it up! The clip was all mangled. I showed a few mates and no body had seen it before, and found 4 that would not check even though they where full of oil. No brand name but was told they'd had excellent results from them over 1000's sold. So I don't know? But I'm not going to keep them, hock them off or send em back. Or just bin them, they're obviously no good.

You'll find if it has spun a bearing it won't be magnetic material (mostly) as bearings are made from white metal, like zinc, tin alloys etc, very soft material. It will show up in the filter if you cut it open, and your dropped oil will be very sparkly/metallic looking. Edit, unless it's spun so much you have removed the bearings completely, and it's rod against crank etc, then it will show alot of magnetic junk! But youd know it if it got this bad, you would shut it down due to the catastrophic noise it makes!

Well here is some truth for peoples knowledge, I installed all my old lifters yesterday, completely dry apart from a tiny bit of oil used to assemble them. I couldn't bleed the valve before assembly because it wouldn't fit back into the body (made it to long for the clip to go inside the lifter body) So I assembled them dry, (smeared with oil) and fitted them without soaking in oil, and they all bled up with 10-15sec of starting. It's now super smooth running, this proves that they do bleed during operation, (by design, oil must fill the body -then the valve itself and pump the valve out and bleed out of the center to the cam lobe).

Well I spent about 7hrs today disassemble-cleaning-reassemble all my original lifters, Now they're all freely moving and looking nice, lapped all the mating surfaces. I'll remove my new ones and fit the originals tomorrow.

I fitted a pretty big 600x400x80mm bar and plate cooler to my s1 Stagea, custom no cut pipe work. I didn't really notice any difference in lag, boost threshold or power. Very slight (better) increase in economy, Power Seems to stay crisper on hot days. But overall not a huge difference, still sounds the same too. All at stock boost and tune.

By design they should bleed during operation, my previous builds have done when started, Massive noise on startup then silence 20-30 sec in. I'm pulling them back out and going to see if the valve actually checks or if they are just pushing in and out. If they're not I'll clean and install my old ones. Edit. Today I drained my 10-30w and filled up with 20-50w but it didn't make much difference.

Hi all, I've searched and searched but haven't found an answer that helps me! BIt of leading info, built an rb30det (untouched bottom and pre vct untouched head), popped a head gasket (cheapy) pulled engine out and gave it a fresh set of rings/bearings and seals, got head reco'd (cut/grind valves and face head) Put all back together and had noisy lifters, I put up with it for a while as only a few, say 4 or 5 where ticking, Finally had the cash to buy new ones and did all the stuff ya do to install them, soaked in oil for a week before hand, put em in and run them up to speed to run them in to the cams, used comp cams grease when installing, All good but they still are noisy, and it's all of them! Knock is over 117 at idle on my pfc. Took it for a drive, still no good. Pulled my cam covers thinking maybe the valves where ground too short? And they had minimal to no collapse against the cams, but I can't even fit a 0.05mm feeler gauge under between cam and lifter on any. So they are pumped out, plenty of oil to the head, as its full up everywhere and I didn't fit any restrictors in the block. All looks good but sounds terrible! Please help as its doing my head in!!!! And can't go for a tune with all this head noise, (engine head not mine!) Cheers.

Hi all, I've searched and searched but haven't found an answer that helps me! BIt of leading info, built an rb30det (untouched bottom and pre vct untouched head), popped a head gasket (cheapy) pulled engine out and gave it a fresh set of rings/bearings and seals, got head reco'd (cut/grind valves and face head) Put all back together and had noisy lifters, I put up with it for a while as only a few, say 4 or 5 where ticking, Finally had the cash to buy new ones and did all the stuff ya do to install them, soaked in oil for a week before hand, put em in and run them up to speed to run them in to the cams, used comp cams grease when installing, All good but they still are noisy, and it's all of them! Knock is over 117 at idle on my pfc. Took it for a drive, still no good. Pulled my cam covers thinking maybe the valves where ground too short? And they had minimal to no collapse against the cams, but I can't even fit a 0.05mm feeler gauge under between cam and lifter on any. So they are pumped out, plenty of oil to the head, as its full up everywhere and I didn't fit any restrictors in the block. All looks good but sounds terrible! Please help as its doing my head in!!!! And can't go for a tune with all this head noise, (engine head not mine!) Cheers.

98 rs4, bit over 228000kms, pretty good condition, it's had a turbo at some point before I bought it, only engine repairs I've done are timing belt and all front seals and water pump. Heaps of stone chips and some rust under the mirrors.

I do have a set of sard/power enterprise 800cc high impedance injectors, the twin spray type, but wasn't too sure on the whole idle quality and fuel usage thing. It currently uses 18.5l/100! And would really like to reduce that over anything else. It does run fairly rich all the time now (on wideband) And I've backed off the load point voltage on the afm abit which has helped.

Only running 7-8psi atm, and wanting to get all the mods/bits needed for tuning instead of going back after every upgrade. if 550's Will do over 300hp then I'll just let my tuner push it a bit more. But really only after a realistic result, I'm not expecting massive power but would be sweet to get a good result from my back yard build.

It is running a new intank pump, as it was a diesel tank with r31 pickup modified to hold a new pump and extended to reach the bottom, 1.5liter surge with some massive Bosch pump externaly. And using r34 neo injectors and rail modified to fit the rb20 style inlet. Yeah 95-98 Ron depends how far outa town/Bush I go! Wanting to run 10 or more psi just didn'. Know if the 370's would do it without goin over 80-90% duty all the time.

Just after a size of injectors for my rb30det, I'm aiming for around 300hp? My turbo only has a 0.63 rear, and it'll be tuned for low end power, I'm after bulk torque more so than outright hp, not sure if it would support much more than that power wise. (It has a/r50 compressor, it's advertised as a 450hp) What would everyone suggest as a good size? Not sure what else to post spec wise to help?