nicksamaniac

Hi all, I've built myself up an rb30 bottom end with an r32 rb25de head and running it with r33 rb25det harness and ecu @8psi. (soon to be power enterprise 800cc injectors and power fc) All is good and it runs like a clock, but when I try to check timing via light and balancer marks it's miles off? I've just set the timing at its original spot (where it's cas witness marks were on the rubber seal/timing cover) And have spoken to 2 tuners and they've both had the same problem? I measured the 30 balancer and is identical to the 25 balancer (bar the belt type) Anybody had same or similar experiences?

Hi all, I've built myself up an rb30 bottom end with an r32 rb25de head and running it with r33 rb25det harness and ecu @8psi. (soon to be power enterprise 800cc injectors and power fc) All is good and it runs like a clock, but when I try to check timing via light and balancer marks it's miles off? I've just set the timing at its original spot (where it's cas witness marks were on the rubber seal/timing cover) And have spoken to 2 tuners and they've both had the same problem? I measured the 30 balancer and is identical to the 25 balancer (bar the belt type) Anybody had same or similar experiences?

Hi all, I've built myself up an rb30 bottom end with an r32 rb25de head and running it with r33 rb25det harness and ecu @8psi. (soon to be power enterprise 800cc injectors and power fc) All is good and it runs like a clock, but when I try to check timing via light and balancer marks it's miles off? I've just set the timing at its original spot (where it's cas witness marks were on the rubber seal/timing cover) And have spoken to 2 tuners and they've both had the same problem? I measured the 30 balancer and is identical to the 25 balancer (bar the belt type) Anybody had same or similar experiences?

I can answer this, Yes they do fit, they are the same physical dimensions od, id, and length. They do however have a higher seat pressure, obviously why you fit them to a de head! I have a rb30det using a r32 rb25de head with rb26 springs fitted, still under the de cams, which are far less aggressive in lift then 26 cams. Far as I can research the de springs will only hold up to about 15-16psi of boost before unseating the valves at high rpm causing valve float.

Just a suggestion as I've had almost identical issue in the past. Check your engine temp sensor connection, (the 2 pin square plug not the Single wire plug) If it's not connected properly it won't give cold start enrichment, it also won't throw a code. Mine had a broken clip and was on but wasn't making contact.

Co2 being a product of a hydrocarbon mixed with o2 to produce it, so yes you are right!

Sold.

If you want to rule out the headgasket, there is a chemical test you use on the radiator to see if combustion chemicals (namely hydrocarbons) are entering the cooling system. I've used this on a diesel patrol and it's a good way to easily test instead of removing the head if it is ok. I got mine from Nissan (test kit). But i Borrowed the tool that screws onto the filler neck for the kit to fit into. bit like a pressure test tool.

Few pics of the process-

Well another update, got the big girl back together, gave it a rebuild while it was out, -Acl race series main and big ends. -Hastings moly rings. -Mls-r head gasket. -Fully rebuilt head with gtr valve springs. And other bits as required!

For sale, 4 tickets to Melbourne sound 2014 on 28th Feb $700 for 4, less than what they cost me! Got these back during the presale but all my plans have fell through. (was going to fly down and make a weekend of it with the wife!) Only asking the purchase cost, i will post them for free via registered express post. Or via registered cod so they can be paid for easier. Or can be picked up in Muswellbrook NSW 2333. Any questions just pm me or call/text me Nick 0408373782.

Good on ya fjrb25, this is what being a car enthusiast is all about, having a go at all the jobs! It's all good and well having all the big name stuff -ie 6boost, but what do you get out of just bolting it on? a good manifold yes, but how many can say "yeah I made that From scratch"! not all of us are building 8sec cars, some of us are in it for the satisfaction of build our own cars.

I just made my own, done 22000km on a 25/30 @ 8psi, in a 2100kg patrol on 35" tires, so it does get load/heat put through the manifold. $78- flange. $97- worth of bends. $28- t3 flange. about 6hrs work in the shed. $150 to get machined flat. $20 to get internally sand blasted.

Update, dropped the head off today for a rebuild, $650 for the full treatment. Deck the face, cut and grind all valves and seats. Pressure test and chem clean, and fully reassembled.

Well yeah, as I had to limp it 350km home when it happened, it would've continued to push through the void into the next cylinder, back and forth. it wasn't so bad to start with but she was pretty unhappy by the time I got home! love my Nissan, far from stock, still it'll keep on goin till the end just to get me home. couldn't do that in a landcruiser!

The offending gasket and an engbay shot when it was first done, looks a tad dif now. Specs - home made top mount manifold, Chinese t04e turbo .63 rear, .50 front. 50mm external gate, 3" mandrel exhaust, 3" cat, muffler, and 18"x3" resonator . 2.5" cooler pipes, 600-300-75 front mount, throttle body moved to front, Massive intank pump -1l surge -044 external pump, (constant 12v supply controlled on/off by ecu) pretty standard rest of setup, stock r31 block, r32 na 25 head untouched (hence the 20 style inlet) standard tune.

This is actuall In a patrol aswell! My first 30 powered gq I fitted vl na injection, ran it at 5 psi on the na tune, then got rb20 injectors and a vlt tune at 10psi. Was pretty good truck. then got this gq, straight lpg rb30, that was a rubbish setup, always out of tune on the wideband, made 75.6hp atw! Now it's an rb25/30det on fuel. I love blasting uphill past Lexus/cruiser 200 series, prados, pajeros and new patrols!

Probably was always out of spec, it was just removed from a stock n/a rb25 (r32/cefiro) and bolted straight onto an untouched r31 rb30 bottom end. Using a cheap fiber head gasket. Probably was a good thing I had a nasty gasket as aposed to a mls-r, it probably would of done head/block damage in the long run instead of chewing out the gasket. I'll get it milled, fit some better valve springs (bin the non turbo ones) and screw it down with a good gasket.

Thanks for the positive reply, most forums only dish out negative stuff and false tech info. At least I'm doing my own r&d (so to speak) if it doesn't work, at least it's only made/built from spare/leftover parts around the shed and hasn't cost $thousands in the first place.

Boost spike? With a 4 psi spring in a 50mm gate, bleeding off to get a MAX of 8 psi, with the boost controller at full bleed. Funny how I've been driving on this setup for 22000km. I actually have an answer now, head is not flat, out of spec over the length, explains why it went between 3-4.

Sure am, even had it on the Dyno to check it! The afm goes over 5v at around 11psi boost, it's at 4.89v at 8psi, so that's as hard as I can run it. I have a set of sard 700cc injectors but am waiting/saving for a power fc. People say it can't be done but if you think about it it's the same as winding up boost on a stock 25. Its only 500cc or 500ml capacity Extra.

Only runs up to 8psi, standard r33 tune. Standard timing, it is an rb30/25 running the stock 370cc injectors and ecu, afr's are spot on at 14.7 @ cruise and up to 11.7 @ full boost, Components look flat under a straight edge but may have to look closer with feeler gauges, maybe get some bits milled/surfaced. Might be an excuse to build a full angry engine!

Has anyone seen this on an rb before? Mine has randomly let go between cylinders 3-4, oil is clean and pressure is spot on, not running hot at all, coolant is clean. It just started running All of a sudden really rough, and after a comp test, cyl 3 and 4 have nothing, sooty plugs and that's it, every thing else seems fine.

I'm running the same unit in my car, and it follows exactly with the Dyno operators setup, gives the same readings, Not sure what he has though.

Thanks GTScotT and Scotty nm35 for the more insightful replys. As I said I have used it plenty in my Stagea with great results, but first time in the patrol, just a bit more insight, my patrol was on dedicated lpg (rb30 single cam na), but was removed to run straight fuel again (rb30det), the tank was a diesel tank in its former car, lines are stainless tube, hand made (getting 2nd hand ones are hard), alloy surge tank and all New hose. The tank I had to clean with fuel by hand to cleanout all the diesel sludge and wipe it out, This I think could be the only part that was dirty, apart from the rb25 neo injector rail? Which only got sprayed out with contact cleaner. -Scotty nm35, I'd be happy to send you the 2 failed units to inspect and get an insight of what has gone wrong or if at all? As I've just bought a set of 6 From a wrecker to get it home and running again.