nicksamaniac

I can only go off what it says on the pump, it's labelled as E100 and in fine print says it's 98 with up to 10% added to increase octane. one thing is for sure, I won't ever buy that again.

I mean e100, 98Ron with 10% ethanol added, I've run it a few times in my Stagea with pretty good results economy wise but can't get it where I live, I have pulled the injectors out and the baskets where spotless, I also cut open the filter and found only small amounts of dirt, as you suggested, ( I thought the exact same thing) the cleaning of all varnish type deposit will go through the system but found no real evidence of this. I have heard that ethanol can melt some plastics, although the injectors are made for fuel, could they be susceptible to melting in ethanol and warp/twist inside causing them to lockup? The bad part is, these injectors where only in until I got larger ones and another tune.

E100 causing injectors to fail? Has anyone heard of this before? I have a gq patrol wagon, rb25/30det. Since fitting the engine I've driven over 2000km without a problem, only run on 95 or 98. left home for a trip (Xmas break-visiting family 460k away) traveled 160km (without issues) and thought I'd top up on e100, traveled a further 21km then started to run lean and shudder as though it was running out of fuel, then was only running on 4 cylinders, Long story short, I found after much fault finding that cyl 3 & 4 are not getting fuel, there is pulse to all 6 injectors, but 3 &4 aren't cycling, these are r34 rb25det injectors 270cc top feed style. Any thoughts or ever heard of this happening?

Series 1 RSFour, big front mount, rear muffler removed (replaced with small 2.5" dia canon, so nearly standard ex) rest of engine stock, standard 5-7psi boost and manual conversion, always does 400/tank regardless of city or hwy. Although once got 450/tank on E100 but can't get it where I live. Not real good on fuel but its a great car, so I don't really care! My old hsv 185kw vs 5L was good at 8.5l/100km but was no where near as fast as the stagea, or as practical!

I do have 3 anchor points but they are in the middle of the roof between the seats and door, is this the area your talking about? I did find a thread about that but they all mention as though they have been mounted right on the door Chanel and the bolts go through to the hinge mounting area.

Hi all, my 97 stagea has a leak! Ive got Water getting in through the back somewhere? It's not from around the door/hatch but I've noticed it leaking from under the corner plastic trims, (near the tail lights, between the quater window and door opening) then leaking down the carpeted trims and filling my cargo mat. Both sides seem to do it, depending on where it's parked, and Wich way the rain is blowing. Has anyone had this? Would it be from the cover on the body vents? Or from behind the corner tail lights/indicators? Or possibly the windows. Any advice on this before I start pulling it apart to investigate would be sweet. Cheers, Nick.

Hi all, Just thought id add in my version. ive just finished my auto to manual conversion, mine is a late 97 RS four, rb25det, series 1. the parts i used are as follows. - R32 gtr gearbox, $450 ebay - R32 gtr slave cyl, come with the gearbox! - R33 gtst clutch pedal and master cyl. $150 ebay, - R33 gtst brake pedal, purchased with clutch pedal, - custom made braded clutch line from pirtek (hyd hose company for those who dont know) $85, - hard core cluth company clutch kit, cushion button, (half organic/half brass button) $450 ebay shop who sells clutch kits. - rb30e standard fly wheel and bolts. come off a spare engine i bought for $100, - R33 gtst hand brake and cable, came with pedals i bought. - R34 manual center console, $140 ebay. - genunie nissan spigot bearing, $4. - gen nissan hand brake mounting, $68 plus a few other odd bits. apart from cutting the hole in the tunnel for the gear stick, and in the fire wall for the clutch MC, every part i used was a dirrect bolt together fit, no modifying any part to get it to fit. the flywheel fitted well, (size etc) the clutch kit was originaly purchased for my rb30 GQ patrol as they to use a FS5R30A trans. the only real trouble i had was removing and re fitting the top bolt near the head at the top of the gearbox, it required some custome spanner fabricating! the clutch kit has a 2100kg pressure plate, im not using a booster and it feels like a stock clutch, and drives like a stock clutch. my speed sensor was a straight swap from the auto into the manual, and it reads correct. the manual will require longer bolts, i had some layin around the shed from other projects, but you will need to get some. just thought this may help anyone with questions as to what will fit there model of stagea if doing this conversion, it took me 2 full days on my own with no instruction apart from what ive read on this forum! just a good hint for people looking for rb parts, alot of other nissans use the same parts, ie gearbox, flywheel, spigot bearing etc so shop around, for example a good clutch kit for a R33 gtst, $700-1000, good kit for a patrol, $450. 2nd hand flywheel to suit rb25 $200-300, flywheel from an rb30 at the wreckers $70! do your research and be patient! good things come to those who wait and performance loves good preperation.

how much for the rear bar/reo? cheers.