BoostedBarge

Sorry to drag up an old thread. I just installed one of these on my R32 GTR. It seems to work fine, however for some reason the 4WD light comes on after a decent corner. I'm not sure why. I installed a dummy load across the ATESSA computer as per the manual. I used 2x15Ohm 10W in parallel which is 7.5 Ohm. I measured the same resistance of the factory solenoid. Any ideas? I kept the TPS signal going to the old computer. Maybe that is confusing it.

Sadly I sold the car in 2016. I honestly can't remember if I fixed this problem. I don't recall doing the AAC or IACV. Maybe we tuned it out on the Vipec.

I ended up selling my stagea a couple of months ago. It still has the noise. A couple of mechanics looked at it and didn't think it was anything to worry about. I just bought an R32 GTR that makes a similar noise, but much quieter. I'm pretty sure it's the throwout bearing. Try pushing the clutch in when you hear the noise.

Price dropped to $24k. Now listed on Carsales.

Whoops. Forgot to put the price! $25,000

Stagea 260RS Autech Version Reluctantly up for sale is our 1998 Nissan Stagea Autech 260RS, boasting a factory fitted RB26DETT, R33 GTR gearbox, Brembo brakes and Autech bodykit. Nissan did not spare a cent on these and it shows! The fit-out and quality is second to none. We were the first owners of this car in Australia and have owned it for the last 9 years. It has always been garaged. We are only selling it because I have purchased an R32 GTR which must be garaged and the Stagea is too good to park on the driveway. My wife and I have been struggling to part with this car since the GTR arrived. This thing handles and drives like new and gives a big smile when you hit a twisty road. GTR performance with wagon practicality. It is just at home on the race track as it is on a long distance camping trip. It has the following quality modifications: • 3.5” Fujitsubo stainless exhaust with Apexi front pipes, • Vipec ECU tuned by Godzilla Motorsport with a mild 13psi of boost • Innovate Motorsports wideband O2 sensor • DBA slotted brake rotors • Whiteline rear swaybar • Eclipse stereo with Bluetooth and iPod connectivity. • Autowatch car alarm professionally installed • Additionally it came from Japan with Stagea series 2 tail lights and a series 2 Momo steering wheel (same as series 3 R33 GTR) which is quite rare and in great condition During the past 9 years it has been meticulously looked after. I have full service records for the whole time we have owned it. A year ago I did the second 100,000 km service. The car only had 157,000km on it at the time, but I needed to replace the radiator and decided to do a full service while I was at it. This Stagea will give years of hassle-free driving. In the past year the following maintenance has been done: • 100,000km service done 5000km ago • Brand new Bridgestone RE003 tyres • Brand new DBA cross drilled brake rotors with QFM pads • Koyo radiator • Starter motor • Replaced all fluids It has never seen a racetrack and has been looked after. The fact that it still has the factory clutch is a testament to this. She currently has 162,000 km on the clock, but is in fantastic condition. The photos speak for them themselves. You won’t find much better.

Same sort of deal here. My guess is low refrigerant, but I'm no expert. I'll take my car to an aircon shop soon.

Awesome thread! I just bought an R32 GTR and the aircon was only blowing the windscreen and was not cold at all. I discovered the aircon relay was dead (900 ohm across the coil). A friend gave me one from his GTR and it measured 60 ohm. Now I can hear the compressor kick in. I removed the mode selector motor and hooked it up to my bench top power supply. It moves, so I moved it to a position where it was shorting one of the "combs". Installed it back into the car and it works! The aircon is cold, but not icy cold. I think during the sun it will not be good enough. I ran the tests and get no fault codes. The temps as 32,32.5,25, 4-10. Is the refrigerant temp too low or is this normal? It was reading much higher before I fixed the relay. I haven't yet checked if my temp control door is working correctly, but I know for sure that is directs hot air at my feet if I set the temp to 32.

I pulled out the old starter and found it had JAS printed on it with a part number. So I rang JAS and they had one in stock at the local store for $220. That'll do me for now. Hopefully it doesn't crap itself in 3 years (no doubt it will). For anyone else looking, the part number was JAS SNB015 1233

So my Stagea 260RS (R33 GTR drivetrain) has a dead starter. It was replaced 3 years ago by a mechanic. I rang the guy and he said he would have fitted a cheap Chinese one (hence the 3 year failure). It would have been nice to have been asked whether I wanted the cheap option or the Bosch option. In any case, I've now rang Ashdowns, Repco and Autobarn and none of them have a listing for a replacement. Does anyone have any recommendations?

Solved it! The old timing loop problems strike again. I found a bit of ignition lead and connected it between the coil and spark plug, then set the timing off that. Believe it or not, it was 9 degrees off! Previously I had tested the timing loop on the little timing wire loop at the back of the engine, as well as on the low voltage wires on the back of the coil. Both of these gave identical readings. Nissan must have some fancy timing light or something. I'm pretty sure the Vipec mechanic used the low voltage wires on the back of the coil, but maybe he had a better timing light than mine. The car is doing damn well now. Very happy. Thanks for your help guys.

Thanks for your reply mate. I actually took a save of the ECU tune after it was initially dyno'd in 2008. You can see the timing offset factor was -80 back then. I think the tuner changed it to -82 when I visited him in 2008/9 after I changed the timing belt the first time and he set the timing. On the weekend I initially adjusted timing by rotating the CAS. It ended up nearly at the limits of its adjustment, when it was centralised before the timing belt job. That's what raised the alarm to me. I think I had done the firmware update just before checking the timing.

I've had a Vipec V44 plug-in on my Stagea 260RS since 2008. I recently changed my timing belt and set the CAS back to roughly the same position. The car has been driving fine. The other day I checked the timing and discovered it was 10 degrees over advanced, so I retarded it by 10 degrees after double-checking with a different timing light. Now the car drives worse than before. It hesitates coming on boost and makes much less power. I removed the top timing belt cover and confirmed the cam pulleys were correctly lined up with TDC. I also confirmed the cam half-moon shaped key for the CAS is still in position and hasn't broken off. So I'm at a bit of a loss as to where this 10 degrees of offset may have come from. Does anyone have any ideas? Oh yeah, in setting the timing, I upgraded my firmware. I think I was about 4 or 5 versions behind the current release. Would this have caused any issues? In the base timing adjustment screen, the original offset (for 10 degree ref) was -82, as set by the Vipec tuner. Now it is -96 for the timing to be right. Do either of these numbers sound about right for an RB26? One other thing, I did change the timing belt somewhere around 2008-2009 after the Vipec install and tune. I went back to the workshop and they checked the timing and adjusted the offset from -80 to -82. I was wondering in my head if the timing belt was always off by 1 tooth, but the fact I've changed the belt once already and it made minimal difference to timing, makes me think the possibilities are very slim. Any ideas? I'm at a bit of a loss.

Sorry to dig up an old thread. I went searching for this connector on my S1 Stagea 260RS. It's actually a green 2 pin connector on my car and has the yellow/green wire going into it.

Absolutely loved the series mate. I've been thinking for ages that a turbo V8 would be perfect in the Stagea. Good on ya for sticking with the manual box. It's gotta be a lot of fun. I must say the amount of detail in the series really drives home how much effort is required to do an engine swap like this. Bloody heaps! Damn awesome work. The workmanship looks second to none.

Spotted a nice Blue RS4 on Old Cleveland Rd, Brisbane. Driver gave me a thumbs up (white 260RS). Very clean looking car with some nice wheels. I love the sticker on the back that says "my groceries are faster than yours". My Mrs commented on how clean the car was.

That's quite a good point about the idle up on startup. I might look into that..

Cool. Thanks for the feedback guys. The starter motor never seems to struggle. It cranks quite easily, but just takes a while to eventually start. Fuel pressure is standard. The oil doesn't smell fuelly, but I might check it again. I'll check out the coolant temp correction, etc.

I have a Stagea 260RS with a RB26DETT. It's had a Vipec V44 fitted for 5 years or so now. One thing that has always bugged me and I haven't been able to solve is engine starting when warm. If the engine is cold, it starts straight away. If I shut the engine down and start it 10s later, it starts straight away. If I shut the engine down for a few hours (sometimes up to 8 hours) it always takes a lot of cranking. At first I thought this was a tuning problem and my tuner added more cranking fuel. It may have made a minor difference. A friend and I had another go at it 6 months ago and added more fuel. It seemed to improve the case where you shut down for 10s, but still if the car has been left for a while I have the normal problem. When it does eventually splutter to life, it pumps out a bit of black smoke, so I'd say we've gone too far with the fuelling now. I'm beginning to think this is not an ECU problem, so I was wondering if anyone on this forum might have some ideas of what else I can check. I was thinking it could be an injector that is slowly passing when the engine is off. I had all injectors cleaned and tested when the ECU was fitted, but perhaps they didn't pick or test for this. Any other ideas?

260RS. Had new tie rod ends fitted today by Fulcrum. They went through 2 different ones, before they found the right one. According to the invoice, it's the same as an N14 Pulsar. The guy told me it's also the same as a GT-T R34 Skyline.

I love it Global Warmer. I have to agree, these cars are so versatile. Last weekend we took it camping, this weekend we loaded it with furniture one day and then the next day hit Mt Nebo for a bit of fun

Hey Pipster, many years ago I had a Silhouette R31 exactly like yours. Same colour scheme. Mine had an RB20DET with RX7 turbo and the JDM front struts. It wasn't tuned well, but went like hell with that turbo. Absolute great fun to drive. Loving that VW Squareback posted earlier. Anyway, here's my collection. First up, my GT40 replica that my Dad, Brother and I are restoring. It hasn't run in 10 years. We've had it since last June and have decided to strip it back to a bare chassis and rebuild from there. How it looked when we bought it: How it looks now: Stag and Mini in the background while my mate Jim builds a computer model of the chassis: Blog here if anyone's keen to see more: http://gt40project.blogspot.com Next up, my misses' Mini Cooper S. It's a 2003 model with John Cooper Works kit. We've had it for a year and a half. Looks nice, goes nice, handles nice, but likes to self-destruct. I have a love-hate relationship with it. It needs more maintenance than the 260RS.

Spotted this Stagea at Tokyo Autosalon with a few drift cars. It had a video playing on the iPad that showed 4 Stageas drifting. Quick video of the iPad: Slightly off-topic, but I also got to see the Mazda 787B start up. One of the best automotive experiences of my life. I took this vid:

Very interesting... This is the same box as used in the manual C34s, so your conversion kit also opens up options of fitting a VQ25DET to a C34 ;-)

My sway bar has arrived! Thanks Daleo. I can't wait to test it out