BoostedBarge

I just went and had a look at mine for you. Both wires on the Mac valve are black, but it looks like one has writing on it. I also saw '---', so I guess that one is the negative. The stock BC connector is a rectangle shape with the connectors in a T sort of layout. The connector that is at one end of the rectangle connector is the negative. The one that runs down the centre of the 'rectangle' is the positive. I hope that makes sense.

Yes, you can use the wiring for the stock boost solenoid. Mine has been wired up with spade connectors straight into the stock boost solenoid plug You will need to change the way the tubes to the mac valve are set up, though.

Very nice buy. I've been watching this car since it came up for sale. Thoughts even crossed my mind of selling my 260 and buying one that's 'already done' ;-) I'm sure you'll love it.

The Vi-pec boost solenoid is a Mac valve. I'm running one in my car.

I'm using the boost control feature. I've got a Mac solenoid in place of the stock one. I have wired the ECU up to an external switch (factory fog light switch) for high/low boost The boost control seems to work fine. It's open loop though, which means it takes a little longer to tune on the dyno. It also has overboost protection. There is a closed loop boost control feature coming soon I believe. I'm looking forward to that one.

Another option is to get a Vipec ECU. About the same price as a power FC, plugs straight in and controls boost, too. So you can sell the Profec as well. I have a Vipec on my 260RS and it's going well. Got 197kwatw with 3.5" exhaust (3" Apexi front pipe) and 13psi. The only thing is that you need to modify the wiring on the aircon clutch relay. It's different in the 260RS to a normal GTR. No major problem I can show you how to do it if you're keen.

Yep, that's what I thought

Sounds like a nice car indeed. I wonder when the N1 engine was swapped in. Someone once tried to tell me that 260RS has an N1 motor and turbos standard, but I'm scepticle.

Hey?? GTI-R is very quick in the straight line. I still think my old one is quicker than my 260RS. But throw in some corners and it's understeer central for the GTI-R. Mine had stock springs and shocks though

I was at a servo one day (as you commonly are in a Stag). When I payed the lady at the counter said "A wagon with a bodykit...that's unusual". I couldn't be bothered explaining that it's a stock imported twin-turbo Nissan...just too hard.

Hey Cloaky. Nice purchase. I'm sure you will enjoy it. Read the Stagea group-buy thread (and related threads) by SydneyKid. He did a fair amount of R&D into Stag suspension. There is some mention of the 260RS in the thread. The 260RS uses R33 GTR rear cradle and as such, has slightly different rear suspension to the RS4. It's not a major problem though. Parts are readily available as it's GTR suspension I've found the 260RS suspension is fairly firm for a wagon, but could probably be a bit firmer and use a bit less body roll. Having said that, I am quite impressed with how it handles. I used to own a GTI-R and I reckon the Stagea feels far more settled in the corners at speed.

Huge well done to John, Mark and the boys at Godzilla!!! These guys worked hard on this car and still managed to get customers' cars through the workshop at the same time. Very impressive indeed. I'm glad to see the hard work has payed off guys!

A mate of mine did this swap. I think he swapped diffs. Also, the Crank angle sensor has different pin configuration to the R32 one. You just need to swap a couple of pins in the loom plug. If you can find the pinout for the R32 and compare it with R34, it should make sense. I swapped them pins for my mate. It took about 10 mins I can't remember which ones to swap. It was a few years back.

I fitted Nistune to my old GTI-R. It's a fairly easy job if you have had a bit of experience with a soldering iron. It worked flawlessly for a year (and then I sold the car). It really is an elegant solution that works very well. I think if you have an ECU that can accept the Nistune board then you'd be silly to go for any other alternative. I was hoping to fit a Nistune board to my 260RS, but it turns out that this has the same ECU as a GTR and does not have the 40 pin connector I ended up fitting a Vipec ECU (since I don't have the auto gearbox to worry about). It fits into the factory box and idles and drives like stock, but with a whole lot more power I now have 196kw@13psi with 3" exhaust (3.5" behind cat) and 5" cat It's addictive though...I want more!!

Low revs, traffic driving and cruising are like stock. I doubt my wife could tell the difference if I didn't tell her. Once you get above 4000rpm it's shit loads quicker of course I'm running MAP sensor, too. The MAFs are just there for looks now haha

Yesterday I fitted a 5" ballistic racing cat and got the car dyno tuned again by Mark at Godzilla. This is the first tune since I fixed the inlet manifold gasket a couple of weeks back. Here's the dyno sheet. I've picked up about 14HP with a max of 263.8HP (196kw) at 13psi. The car is tuned fairly conservatively for reliability, since it's my wife's daily. I'm very happy with it now. It seems to have a fair bit more mid-range (It looks like I've gained close to 20HP at 4000rpm) and is a bit more responsive. Of course, it still idles like stock

It looks like the main thing differentiating Link from Vipec is the plug-in ECU. I'd say the base board used to connect the factory loom to the processor board is a Vipec only board. Either way, who really cares if it's Link or Vipec. Let's get on with talking about the technical details and the results people have had so far After my Vipec was isntalled and tuned I discovered I had an inlet gasket leak. After 2 f*((&n painful days I changed the gasket, started her up and she idled straight away, but lower than before. I went through teh open-loop idle tables (used as a starting point for idle control) and bumped it up as the engine warmed up. Now it runs better than ever! Idle control really is a very strong point of this ECU. Hopefully I can give it a dyno run next week and see how it goes now the gasket is fixed Oh yeah, those who are wanting knock control with the plug-in ECU, I emailed Ray and he said they can sell an amplifier board for around $240 or you can make one yourself. I dunno if I can be really bothered now though. It seems good as it is.. On the topic of support...Ray replied to my emails within 12 hours. Pretty happy with that.

Inside the box, the design is quite clever. It looks like they have a standard board which has the processor etc on it. This then plugs into a base board, which is designed for the particular car and is the correct size to fit in the case and has the standard loom connector on it. So I suspect the processor board is a V44 and the base board has the extra circuitry for the six injector outputs. I've had my Vipec for 3 weeks now and it seems to be working faultlessly. This morning I started it up, it started first time and held the revs perfectly. Far better than the stock ECU, which was having problems controlling the idle in my car.

So has anyone heard anything more on teh liquid LPG system yet?

Hmm interestign thread. Thanks guys. Another option would be to sell the Power FC and get a plug-in Vipec (see the Vipec thread). I've just fitted one to my Stagea 260RS and it's running off a MAP sensor and has brilliant idle control and only took a few hours for the installer to tune. That way you don't need to worry about AFMs at all. Plus it has boost control, launch control and knock control (if you add a signal amplifier).

Gus, the V66 was a nick-name that floating around here for the Skyline plug-in board. It is basically a V44 with 6 injector drivers. It is a plug-in board. If you go to their website and look at the Skyline plug-in board there are all the specs there.

I can't believe you haven't sold these turbos yet!! I wish I could afford to put them on my Stagea right now.

I'm happy with it. Can't really fault it.. I guess if you were rally worried about the waste spark then that might be a downside, but it makes no difference on a street car like mine.

Mark reckons that it's something to do with the Stagea AWD system and when it engages the front wheels. He's seen it on Stageas before. It doesn't do it on the street. Dyno only.

Mark installed a Mac valve for boost control. It's not a Vipec option, but I think a commonly available valve. It's installed neatly in place of the factory boost control solenoid using the stock loom I'm running open-loop boost control. It would be interesting to see how closed loop goes. Oh yeah, it has an overboost cut, too. I was happy to see this feature