BoostedBarge

Bump Your chance to own a clean, fast and well looked after GTI-R.

BUMP Now has RWC. Passed with ease. The mechanic commented on the good condition of the car.

Sorry, pics are now fixed.

Make: Nissan Model: Pulsar GTI-R Milage: 135000 km Transmission: 5-speed Colour: Grey Location: Brisbane Complied? Yes RWC supplied? Yes Currently registered? Yes Price: $12000 with black GTI-R bonnet or $11500 with matching grey N14 standard bonnet Contact: Simon 0403 653 055 Comments / Modifications: This car has been very well looked after, maintained and sensibly modified. This car is very reliable and easy to drive. It has been driven daily by my wife to work for the past year. It is available with a black standard GTI-R bonnet for $12000 or a stock N14 Pulsar bonnet in matching grey for $11500 ENGINE MODIFICATIONS: -Front-mount intercooler (core custom-made for GTI-R, much shorter piping than other cheaper kits) -3" stainless exhaust, including custom dump pipe, 4" cat and electronically controlled exhaust control valve (allows car to be quiet while cruising and have the power when wanted). -HKS EVC Pro boost controller, only running 0.75bar (11psi) -XTreme full-face organic heavy-duty clutch -Splitfire sparkplug leads -Nistune reprogrammable daughterboard (running stock tune). Allows stock ECU to be tuned on the fly. SUSPENSION/BRAKING MODIFICATIONS: -Whiteline rear swaybar -Whiteline anti-lift/caster kit -Whiteline front camber kit -Whiteline front swaybar bushes -DBA 4000 series front slotted brake rotors -Lucas Performance brake pads -Custom brake master cylinder stopper INTERIOR: -Nardi steering wheel -Pioneer CD/MP3 Head Unit -Infinity 6" splits (front) -JBL 4" coaxials (rear) OTHER: -Mongoose M80 Alarm/immobiliser -14" Volk CE28N wheels -Has the factory umbrella (rare) MAINTENANCE: -Replaced/reconditioned: water pump, starter motor, clutch master and slave cylinders, rear engine hoses, detonation sensor, D/S engine mount, distributor cap & rotor button, harmonic balancer, rear main oil seal, clutch fork (strengthened), clutch pedal brace, timing chain tensioner, Redline Lightweight gearbox oil. -Serviced every 5000km with Motul 4100 TurboLight oil -Log and receipts of past 4 years of ownership showing over $11000 in modifications/maintenance -Car has been with current owner for 4 years Reason for sale: We have purchased a new car and do not have space for two. A standard N14 Pulsar flat bonnet is available that has been professionally resprayed in matching grey. This gives the car a sleeper image. Price with grey bonnet instead of black GTI-R bonnet: $11 500 (pictures available on request). Images: Note: Flat (standard N14) bonnet has been resprayed to match the car since the last (GTIR8.jpg) photo was taken.

Global Auto Spares still haven't replied to my email. I think I'll have to give them a ring sometime this week.

That part number is the same as what James has listed for the R32 GTR. If I'm not mistaken, the R32 uses a small size thread than the R33. I guess you could get one of those adapters. They're both Titania though aren't they (correct me if I'm wrong).

Cool, thanks Duncan. I've got onto Global Spares to get two of the sensor quoted for the front. Let's see what they come up with.. Cheers

Cool, thanks for replying. I'll look into that. I'd imagine it's not a quick job to check the throttle body seals. I'll look into it.. Cheers

I recently did my stereo and I used an Aerpro adapter harnass that I soldered to the new stereo loom. I noticed that it hooked the am/fm amp straight up to the blue wire, which is the am/fm 12V source from the new head unit Too easy Previously my car has a stock Nissan CD/MD player. They'd used some sort of adapter to go from the 2 prong factory antenna plug to the standard CD player plug. I buzzed out the connectors with my multimeter and found that only one of the rear antennas was actually connected through to the CD player. I was going to cut the wires and solder them, but then came up with another idea.... I cut a small piece of wire and bent it into shape so that I could drop it into the socket of the 2-prong antenna adapter. So each end of the small piece of wire goes down the holes that the 2 pronged antenna plug goes into, so this effectively bridges the 2 prongs and joins your 2 antennas! The only problem with doing this is that the 2 antennas are now run in parallel which gives an impedance mismatch to the radio, but then this is FM i doubt it really matters... If I was really keen I could wire a transformer into there to give the correct match, but like I said, it's only FM....

I used an Aerpro adapter harnass for my new stereo. I noticed that it hooked the am/fm amp straight up to the blue wire, which is the am/fm 12V source from the new head unit Too easy Previously my car has a stock Nissan CD/MD player. They'd used some sort of adapter to go from the 2 prong factory antenna plug to the standard CD player plug. I buzzed out the connectors with my multimeter and found that only one of the rear antennas was actually connected through to the CD player. I was going to cut the wires and solder them, but then came up with another idea.... I cut a small piece of wire and bent it into shape so that I could drop it into the socket of the 2-prong antenna adapter. So each end of the small piece of wire goes down the holes that the 2 pronged antenna plug goes into, so this effectively bridges the 2 prongs and joins your 2 antennas! The only problem with doing this is that the 2 antennas are now run in parallel which gives an impedance mismatch to the radio, but then this is FM i doubt it really matters... If I was really keen I could wire a transformer into there to give the correct match, but like I said, it's only FM.... (I'm gonna paste this message into the DIY stereo thread)

Latest update on the idle problems: Last night I got home from a short 5 minute drive to the shops. I let the car idle on the turbo timer for a minute. All of a sudden the revs lifted for no reason. It seemed to sit at around 1500rpm and fluctuate around this point by 500rpm or so. It sounded like someone was sat in the car playing with the throttle! My wife said that she has seen this happen before, when sat at traffic lights or whatever. Any idea what it might be? My ideas are: -Sticky idle control valve -The injector from cyl 2 is still a bit gummed up, but the injector cleaner is starting to help causing the injector to fire properly every now and then at which point the idle control is wound right up by the ECU idle control and causes the revs to raise dramatically (yeah that one's a bit out there). When I get a chance a will swap over that injector with another cylinder to try and see if I can prove the problem is due to the injector. Also, one of the O2 sensors is a bit lazy, so that's probably not helping the cause..

Good stuff! Do you know which sensor it was that you ordered? Was it the Bosch one that's listed on James' page or something else?

I'm after new O2 sensors for a Stagea 260RS (R33 RB26DETT) and judging by James' page (great page James) there is a Bosch alternative. I'm not a fan of cutting and joining wires. I wonder if the pins on the plug it comes with can be removed and put into the stock nissan plug. ANyone tried?

Yeah I've checked the wiring around cylinder 2 and it's all fine. I'm not familiar with the epoxy thing. I'll have to do a search of the forum. RB26s have the same coil packs as RB25s (series 1s, not sure about series 2), so it should be prone to the same problems. It seems that the problem is not coil pack related, since I swapped the coilpack with cyl 1 and the problem was still there on cyl 2. It may be just me, but I think the idle may be improving. One of the main things I'm noticing now is that when it's cold it idles at about 600rpm and when the throttle is opened and then released it will hold the revs at like 1500rpm before eventually coming down. My wife says it's kind of annoying, it sounds like you are slipping the clutch. Maybe this problem is unrelated to the misfire and perhaps due to a sticky idle control valve. I just realised that this topic is in the wrong section. Sorry about that. If any mods can move it for me, then please do.

Well, I put the injector cleaner in and I'm about half way through a tank and the miss is still there. It seems worse when the car is cold. When it's warm is idles fairly well most of the time. When cold it sits at around 600rpm. The air conditioning makes it worse, too. Does anyone have any ideas of what else I could look at? So far I've replaced spark plugs, swapped coil packs around (on Consult the problem stays with cylinder 2) and put injector cleaner into it. I'm tempted to swap injectors with one of the other cylinders to see if the miss is cause by the injector. Cheers, Simon

I did some more work on this last night and swapped coilpacks 1 and 2. The problem did not change, it is still cylinder 2. So I know it's not a coil problem. I pulled out the spark plugs on cylinder 1 and 2 and compared. I found that the cylinder 2 plug was a lot blacker around the white ceramic insulated part. So it's either running rich or not firing properly. I'm thinking that maybe the injector could be partially blocked. The car is a fresh import (was imported November last year and had driven <100km before I bought it), so who knows how long it has been parked with old fuel in the tank. I bought some injector cleaner last night. Lets see if that helps things...

Yep, big turbo would be to blaim, when you're cruising along on the highway or whatever it is making less boost and the ECU runs is leaner. It was the same for me with my old R31 that a HT-18 on it. Most the time was off boost, so fuel efficiency was awesome. As soon as you get up, you can just about watch the fuel needle dropping! A friend of mine with an R32 also has similar affects.

Yeah, we are about to sell the GTI-R Sorry I didn't make that clear in the last post. The 260RS isn't as quick as the GTI-R (not for long), but seems to handle better.

Well I tried out some other Consult software yesterday. Nissan Scantech http://www.techdiag.co.uk/obdscantech/web/pg002.html I am now a bit closer to putting my finger on the problem. It will do a balance test where it shuts down each cylinder and measures the average RPM and then gives a report on the RPM dropped for each cylinder. Every cylinder dropped by 100rpm or so, except number 2, which raised the RPM very slightly (dunno why)! So it looks like cylinder 2 has a miss at idle. I'm gonna change the coil pack with one of the other cylinders to see if I can pin in on the coil pack. Other things I noticed: -One O2 sensor seems be a lot less responsive than the other. It takes a while after the engine has warmed up for the O2 sensor voltage to move much and even then it moves half as much as the other, so I think it may be on the way out. Anyone know a good place to get a cheap replacement? -Another strange idle problem, when you slightly raise the revs and then release the throttle the revs will first raise higher and then fluctuate up and down a few times before coming steady. I think this may be a sticky AACV valve. I think I will fix the misfire first, before I investigate this one furhter.

Oh damn it!! I was planning to go to this and thought it was tomorrow for some stupid reason. What an idiot. I was really looking forward to catching up with you guys and taking the 260 out for a squirt I hope you all had a good time. How many cars?

Thanks for your reply. I doubt it has lumpy cams. The whole car looks pretty much stock, except for exhaust. Turning the A/C on does not seem to improve the idle and sometimes makes it worse.

Hi everyone, I recently purchased a Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I am after your advice on the idle. It seems to idle a bit rough, like it has a bit of a miss. It drives perfectly smooth and seems to go quite hard. The day I drove the car out of the compliance centre it developed a miss after about half an hour of traffic driving. I replaced the plugs and I haven't had this problem again, but the idle still seems a bit average. Often when I start the car it will idle at 600rpm. Sometimes it will sit at 900rpm and even above 1000rpm (possibly cold start). The A/C also makes things worse as expected. I have plugged Consult in and it reports no faults. I shut down each cylinder at a time to try and find a culprit, but I couldn't really put it down to a single cylinder, they all have a similar affect. I thought that maybe the cause is a boost/vacuum leak, but listening around the engine I can't hear hissing and it seems to boost fine. In Consult I went into idle adjust mode and the revs dropped even further (~500rpm). I tried playing with the idle valve and base timing settings in Consult test mode, but this had little affect in terms of improving things. I am going to get a timing light off a friend to check base timing is set correctly. Does anyone have anything else I could try or any common faults? I have checked the compression and it was reading high 174 lowest, 182 highest. I suspect that the gauge was faulty, but at least there wasn't a single cylinder that was down. The engine looks dead stock and has 72000 on the clock. Or perhaps a lumpy idle is common on an RB26?? (I haven't heard any running on a stock ECU) Thanks heaps, Simon

Hey Everyone, I thought I'd better introduce myself properly. I recently bought this Stagea 260RS: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...ml&hl=260rs It has finally come out of compliance and is now on the road. So far I am absolutely loving it. The engine is so torquey and it handles better than I thought it would. I also have a Pulsar GTI-R, which I have had for 4 years (will be up for sale soon). My wife and I decided we needed to upgrade, she wanted 4 doors and I wanted performance, so this is what we ended up with. So far, we are both very happy with it. I'm looking forward to meeting you all soon.

I have looked at this car, too. It is very, very tidy. However, I'm not sure if it is worth the price. They have had it there for a long time.

I rang LSV and they won't insure me because my wife is under 25. Oh well, Just Cars it is...