BoostedBarge

Hi mate, any chance you might still have the LHS black mounting arm for the side mirror (happy to buy whole side mirror)? I snapped mine in 2 while moving house... I'm in Brisbane and happy to pay for freight if you've still got it.

Hey, just wondering if you might still have the LHS mirror or black mounting arm? My black mounting arm snapped into two while moving house. I'm in Brissy, northside and can come and collect it if you still have one available. The colour doesn't matter because the mirror body is only screwed on. Cheers.

The body is fine. The black mounting arm is the part that broke... damn. Thanks anyway!

Chasing a pearl white passenger-side miror for my stagea. If you have one, please give me a call on 0403653055

Quick update: It has been running fine with the fixed ignitor module. I swapped in the 2nd module that I fixed and that one runs fine, too Ray Hall sent down a new ECU last week and I swapped that in with no problems. It was bloody good of them to send a replacement even though they don't think it's an ECU problem. Now just keeping fingers crossed...

Hmmm. I really need to get my own AFR meter. I borrowed a mate's once and tuned the cruise/light throttle stuff, but it would be really good to have an AFR meter pernamently and to tune the 2-4psi area.

So if you're running 15.2-15.3 at cruise, have you disabled closed-loop? Do you have it off all the time? I'm thinking of doing the same thing.

I'm running a Vipec, but hundreds of people are running this or a Link without a problem, so very strange... I had the Vipec on the car for 7 months without a problem and then the car fried 3 modules in 4 months, so I don't think the ECU is to blame. I've emailed Ray Hall (Vipec) all the details and he was quite helpful. He asked his engineers to look into it and they couldn't see any problem from their end. He's even offered a replacement ECU free of charge, just in case, but he's quite confident it's not an ECU issue. I've now disabled overrun fuel cut, just in case this was causing the issue. As I mentioned above, I believe that all 3 times the module failed during similar circumstances (coasting down a hill). It's probably just coincidence. Ray doesn't think overrun is an issue and many Vipec users have it enabled without any problems. Now I've got a thick piece of wire in the ground circuit of the ignitor, so with any luck it won't blow again. Well it may not be the ground connection that fails next time, but perhaps something else will fail... Time will tell

Haha good one. Thanks

Quick update: I'm back at work in New Caledonia now. Before I left I cut open another ignitor that the car had fried. It also had a dead ground connection. This time it was not the track that was burnt out, but the little piece of wire that connects the PCB to the terminal. I soldered a bit of wire in its place, so now I have a spare ignitor. Fingers crossed, the car doesn't play up on my wife while I'm away.

Ah yeah, good point. Haha

So I guess the question now is: what fried that little piece of track. It's got to be one of 2 reasons: -Too much current -More than 2 transistors on at once. The ECU I'm using runs wastespark, so there are 2 transistors on at once. This means twice the current through that track. Heaps of people have run this before, so I doubt it's a problem. However, if for some reason I got a short on the input or an ECU fault, I could potentially switch on 4 or 6 transistors. -Short across the primary on one coil pack. If I got 12V shorted across the primary then you'd have a short through one of the transistors. Would the single transistor fail instead of the ground link? I've stripped back the loom and it looks OK, the coil packs are brand new, so this doesn't seem like a likely cause. I've also measured the resistance between ground and the battery and it is 0.1ohm, so looks good to me. Unless there's a loose connector somewhere. I tightened the ones I could access last time I had this problem. -Higher alternator voltage. That combined with wastespark would mean more current. The max voltage I saw today in the logs was 13.87V so that looks OK. -Too much dwell -I just went for a drive and had a look at the log. The dwell is sitting at 1.8-1.9ms with a max of 2.7 at some point, so it looks OK. A dodgy CAS might cause the dwell to go high at some point.. -One of the inputs is jammed on for some reason. I guess this could cook the ground track or the transistor or the coilpack. Who knows? So that's all I can think of. Anyone got any other ideas? I think I'll fix my other broken ignitor and drive around with it in the glove box in case of an emergency.

OK, as promised here are the pics of the ignitor modules. I owe a thanks to FastRotor who's been offering me advice about this problem. Bit of a how-to guide: 1. Cut open the box around the top, about 5mm in from the edge. I used a Stanley knife and only managed to cut myself twice 2. The inside is filled with this sticky silicone-like clear substance. You can poke your multimeter through it to determine the dead track. You can see my dead track on the top left (it's a bit burnt). This is where the last transistor connects to the ground pin. The current from the emitter on each of the 6 transistors flows through this piece of track. 3. Peal back the sticky sealant. 4. Solder a bit of wire over the broken track. The solder Nissan have used is quite hard and requires a fair bit of heat to melt it. I had my soldering iron set to 400 degrees to melt it. 5. Once you're happy with your wire you can place the sticky sealant back down over the top of it. Be careful of the little silver leads they are very fragile. Quite an interesting design inside that little box. I've never seen transistors that look like that and definately haven't seen a board covered in that sticky silicone stuff.

Well the car is running again. I cut open the ignitor module and found the PCB track to the ground pin had burnt out. I soldered in a piece of wire and it's running again. Who knows how long it will run for.. The question is, why is the ground track on the PCB burning out? This is the only ground for all 6 transistors and it burnt out after number 6, hence I lost all transistors.

I spent a fair bit of time going over the loom last time I had this problem. All of the connectors are in good condition. None of them have become brittle yet. I also spent some time measuring for shorts while shaking the loom to see if there were any problems. Very frustrating problem this one...

Well it's been a bit over a month since I replaced the coils and the car has probably done over 1000km and has been running great. Until today..... Exactly the same issue. Engine just cut out. I haven't had a look yet, but I'm 99% sure the ignitor module is fried again. Not happy at all!! I have bought 2 ignitors now ($1500), plus a set of Splitfire coil packs and now it looks like I'm up for another ignitor I'm not sure if it's a coincidence, but all 3 times it has died under similar circumstances: cruising down a hill (overrun fuel cut would have kicked in), get to the bottom, go to accelerate and find it is dead. It has a Vipec ECU (has been in there since November/December last year without any problems). I've emailed them already to find out if they have any ideas.

Nice pics. That's a damn impressive turnout. You must have got some confused looks

Spotted 60yo up Mt Tamborine and had a chat. Spotted a very tidy white S2 in East Brisbane. Somewhere around Wellington St. You turned into the Fish place, I was behind you.

Awesome pics. Sorry I couldn't make it. Had family stuff on. I ended up at Tamborine on Saturday and 60yo spotted me and pulled over. It was nice to meet you mate. Good to see another Stag enthusiast.

If it's running at 1100-1200 rpm at idle, then it's likely you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Since you just had your injectors out, that would be the first place I would look. Get some carby cleaner and spray it around the base of the injectors. If you notice the revs drop when you spray a particular place, then you have found your air leak Also spray around the inlet manifold gasket. This let go on my car and caused it to idle pretty badly. Did they replace the injector o-rings when they cleaned the injectors?

My misses loves our 260RS. It's our only car and she drives it to work everyday. We've taken it camping, long road trips, squirts up Mt Nebo, city traffic and it's happy to do all of the above. No problems loading it with 4 adults and a boot full of camping gear. Personally I don't think it's quite a 'hard core race car' as people say it is. It's aggresive when you want it to be, but quite civilised for day to day driving. The suspension is firm, but quite comfortable. The interior is all good quality. My only qualms with it is that it's too heavy. To be totally honest I wanted a GTR and I still feel a little ripped off by the added weight of the wagon (it guzzles fuel, too), but right now we can't afford 2 cars and the 260RS is a fantastic comprimise. I suggested to the wife that we get her something more fuel efficient and get me a GTR and she said she didn't think she could go back to anything slower. She certainly loves that car. I busted her in high boost the other day. She said 'the air was cold and the car was going well'. Hahaha Oh yeah, we're both short arses (she's 153cm, I'm 163cm) and we have no problem with the seats. Must look like midgets in that massive car though...

Sounds like it will be a huge cruise. Unfortunately it looks like I won't be able to make it. MY Father in Law is visiting that weekend and we may also be camping down the Gold Coast. Have fun..

A friend of mine did this a few years ago. He claims it has less lag than a set of -7s, but that was several years ago, so I can't really give you any more details than that. A turbo shop in Townsville (John Patrick) did the job for him.

Well, I've bitten the bullet and ordered a set of Splitfire coilpacks. If they're not dead already, it's only a matter of time, so I'd may as well replace them now. Fingers crossed this fixes the issue.

Well I just went out and checked the earths. They were all tight. I loosened them and tightened them again as GTRNUR suggested. Trying to track down another ignitor now...