BoostedBarge

Bad ass! That's certainly got to scare young children.

I'm thinking it would be handy to get one, too. Not so keen on hacking up my 260RS body kit for the tow ball though. I wonder if could hide the whole thing and just remove the lower 260RS add-on part of the rear bumper when I need to tow something..

Zurloc PM'd me for further details on the knock amp, but I thought I'd reply here for the benefit of everyone else. The knock amp IC is the TPIC8101 http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpic8101.pdf Autospeed article on DIY knock detection http://autospeed.com/cms/title_DIY-Detonat...48/article.html According to that article the frequency of knock can be approximated as 900/(3.14*Cyl Radius). I read somewhere else the frequency also depends on cylinder temperature and the location of the knock sensor, so I dunno how accurate that formula would be. I was trying to find a Subaru site that I read a few months back. It had lots of info including sound recordings etc. Anyway, if you do a Google search you will find a mountain of information. I wonder how different the knock amp settings will be from one engine to the next. Perhaps it would be good to collate everyone's settings in a database or maybe the Vipec forum. It would be awesome if we could say RB26 = frequency...., gain.... The stock ECU and the power FC must do the amplifying and filtering on board, so I guess engines must be fairly similar. Zurloc: Keep us posted on how you go

I looked into this a few months back. The knock sensor is basically a microphone. The amplifier just amplifies this so that it can be detected by the ECU. The problem is that the engine makes noise at all frequencies. We only need to detect the knock which occurs at specific frequencies. The frequency of knock depends on a few things. Bore size was one of them I believe. I found a formula somewhere that calculated the frequency for you. So the external amplifier needs to amplify to right level and filter out any unwanted noise outside of the knock frequency. There is an IC out there that is designed specifically for this (I can look it up if you want). It is surface mount and not commonly available from shops like Jaycar. Also, knock only occurs at a certain point in the engine cycle. Therefore, a smart amplifier/ECU will only switch on the knock sensor input at those points in the cycle where knock is expected. I'm not sure if the Vipec does this or not. After reading all this I was thinking I'd go for the amplifier sold by Vipec/Bob, but then you need to induce pinging in your engine to set the gain correctly, etc. That kinda scares me, so I've stuck with no knock amplifier and trusted by tuner's tuning

Congratulations mate. Looks like a very tidy car. I'll have to drive one of these some day. Everyone raves about them.

Ouch!! My front lip scrapes all the time. I'd better look after it...

I just bought the latest HPI to check out this beast. Congratulations Tristan. It looks brilliant in the photos.

Spotted a white stock RS4 on Cavendish Rd, Coorparoo today. I pulled up next to it. 2 ladies in the front. I don't think they noticed me.

Spotted a blue/purple colour M35 turning down New Cleveland Road from Old Cleveland Road near Capalaba. Looked very nice

You might want to look into the circuitry a bit further. I'm fairly certain that on my old GTI-R, the electronics in the dash altered the speed signal from the speed sensor before it is sent on to the ECU. I'm guessing here, but maybe the speed sensor gives out a sine wave and the electronics in the dash convert it to a 0-5V square wave for the ECU. Maybe you could modify the circuit to patch the Vipec in there somewhere.

Would it be possible to wire in your additional sensor to one of the spare Vi-pec analogue inputs and then get the Ruzic to display the new input? Would be a nice and tidy solution. Plus you could get the ECU to react to that input, datalog it, whatever..

I'm hanging out for closed loop boost control, too. Mine spikes occasionally and hits the overboost limit.

Haha. Before getting the 260RS, I had tried to talk my wife into it, but she didn't like them much. She wanted an R34 4 door. All it took was one car yard... she sat in a R34 and then sat in a Stag and was sold on the Stag The interior really does have a solid, quality feel about it. In my opinion, it was far better quality than the R34. No rattles or squeaks and after 10 years the only sign of wear is a slight bit on the steering wheel. You certainly get the feeling that Nissan spent the dollars on the Stagea. Plus, the RB25 is easy to work on and parts are easy to get hold of. Having said all that, I also like the quality of the Legnum. They certainly don't have the cheap and nasty feel of some other Mitsus (ie Lancer). One look in the engine bay is enough to scare away the most keen of mechanics.. My advice: take each for a drive, take the family and then decide which way you want to go.

If you can find the coin...get a 260RS. They are coming down in price and probably go as well as, if not better than the 4 door R33. My Mrs drives mine to work every day. She loves it... My mate has a manual Legnum. We give each other a hard time constantly. I'm yet to line him up, but each car feels pretty similar. The Legnum is lighter and has more torque down low, but it runs out of puff up in the revs, where as the 260RS keeps pulling to 7K+ I just need to line him up to decide what's faster. Side by side, the Legnum is much smaller than the Stag.

It was a good cruise guys. Great to meet you all and very awesome to see so many Stags in one place. Here's a few pics that I took. Shame I ended up stuck behind a tree. Next time we will have to line up properly for some decent pics.

Mark at Godzilla tuned mine. I'm pretty happy with it. Drives like stock (but with more power of course). Mine's a 260RS, so no auto.

Mine idles dead flat. Try spraying some carbi cleaner around the rubber seals of the injectors, if the revs change then it means you have an air leak. These things use closed loop control of idle, but use the settings in the open-loop table as a rough starting point for idle control duty cycle, so you set up your idle in open loop and then switch on closed loop and it is done.

I don't plan on selling it, so resale is not a problem...and it can be removed in no time at all I looked for a suitable connector at Jaycar, but couldn't find one. The pin spacing is very small.

Can you put me down as a maybe at this stage. I work away from home (2 weeks on, 1 off), but it falls on a weekend I'm home. Meant to be looking for houses though, so we'll see how it goes... Fingers crossed I'll be there. I'm very keen to see a whole load of Stageas in one place -Simon (260RS)

Nice work mate. It's coming along nicely. I wish I was up in Townsville to see it at the track. It will be a weapon. I'll be up the weekend of the 28th of March. I wonder if there are sprints on then....

The Vipec dealer can supply the expansion loom. Alternatively you can solder direct to the board (I did for my boost switch)

Nice work! It's good to hear of quick 260s coming out of the wood work

I'd give my left nut for a set of GT-SSs on my 260RS I have Vipec ECU, Apexi front pipes and some jap 3.5" cat back. If you want, I'll try and find out which brand it is. It came with the car. It's got a nice sound, particularly up in the revs, but is not overpowering. Actually, I think if it was me, I'd just get a nice custom job. It's doesn't look like a very difficult job. Pretty straight from the cat to the back. I've only got 197kwatw running 13psi on the stock turbos, but it goes alright

OK, well there ya go then. That would explain why the wires are both black

Haha, that is true, but then it's also hard for me to justify the thousands of dollars (when I should be saving for a house) I would spend getting my car to a state where it is as quick as this one. I think if I was to modify my car to the level of this one, my car would probably owe me $10K more than if I just sold it and bought one 'pre-modified'. But yes, you are right, nothing beats the satisfaction of doing it all yourself