shane_cummings

Hi, I'm building an L28 at the moment. This website is the most informative and simple I've come across. The cylinder head section gives comp ratios, combustion chamber cc's, valve sizes, describes ports for every L series head. A must read. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

I'm not particulaly skilled with computers (I was born without the nerd gene). Is it possible to save these movies to your computer to watch them offline or are they set so you can't do this? If you can, how do I do it????

??? I think 110?, the one that was released here with the round tail lights, unfortunately not the one that usually has the square ones or I might have got some decent money. I've sold the tail lights so the indicators and round pillar trims are all that's left.

I have come across the following parts that I'll sell if they are worth anything to anyone. Don't know what they'd be worth, open to offers. Datsun 240K front side/gaurd indicators undamaged, complete with inner housing and outer lense and thin chrome ring. Datsun 240K front bumper indicator lenses and seals, undamaged. Datsun 240K fuel filler cover and opposite side round plastic trims. Both have no clips broken or damage, paint on them somewhat faded. Datsun 240K complete stovetop tail lights and facia. All chrome around lights in tact, lights are undamaged, plastic where globes plug in is undamaged, very slight dint in facia, I'll probably strip this back and give it a rub back and restore to primed finish ready to paint color. I live in Shepparton but I travel between albury and shepparton for work so delivery in this area is possible. Leave a message if you want to have a look at something.

My memory isn't the greatest but I seem to recall looking at a 32 wheel and deciding it wouldn't work at all with my existing indicator switches. Have you guys used the 32 switches, I thought the wiring plugs didn't go together. What is involved? I'm still usin my standard wheel, still about 1-2 notches on the spline crooked from when I put it back on, damn I'm lazy...

Fibreglass waste of money??? If you have a plastic original I'd see carbon fibre as the waste of money!! What's the aim, light weight? looks?

Every time I take my car it's very busy, every time I don't and I go to watch/passenger it's beautiful weather and quiet without fail! I'll be driving this time so expect lines round to the petrol bowsers like the december one!!! This time of year will make the lines more bearable, not so hot.

The type of trailer and positioning of the load is a major factor on a cars ability to tow. I use a light weight trailer and a stripped out stanza and never have any trouble. I would say manufacturers would be more than a little conservative when rating a vehicle's towing ability. Regarding the L20B into 1200/sunny/120y. I've heard the crossmember thing for the sunny's but I think the L20b is too tall with standard engine mounts. I heard it just hits the bonnet but L18's are OK as they are smaller stroke. Could be wrong but that's what I was told. Go little datsuns I say!

Just a piece of advice, the bigger/heavier the car, the dearer everything else will be. Tyres, a diff to take the punnishment, the power needed to keep the car in a slide, gearbox, everything. If you want to go sideways in a car pick something fairly light to begin with. 4 cylinder will keep things cheap. When you look at AE86's and even sivlias to a degree they are a perfect example. If you only have $5000 I doubt you'll have a decent 31 ready to drift if you also don't have much experience with cars yet. The other unfortunate thing is that you'll probably have to compromise with a road/drift car. Most things you'd do to a drift car wouldn't be unsuitable/legal for the road. I've had a turbo silvia which was great and currently own a 31 wagon, which I can tell you now is no nimble piece of equipment especially when close to standard form If I had to do everything all over again I would get an AE86 or Dastun stanza if you can handle the looks. The AE86 has obvious potential, the stanza is the lightest shell a L20b series 2 bluebird motor will drop straight into, bang a webber on it and spend the rest of your money on wheels/exhaust etc... For a compromise car I'd say a series 3 bluebird TRX with the CA20 engine. Pleanty of room for mates, reasonably well appointed, not too heavy. The possibility to easily upgrade to a CA18DET down the track would make it a good choice. I love my 31 but I only chose it as a tow car for my stanza race car and not as a drivers car. That said you can have fun in just about anything if you want to.

I'm looking for a single 45mm side-draught webber or a pair of 40mm's. To go on a L20b. I've got a single webber manifold but would be wanting a manifold in the case of twin 40's. Dollars depends on what you have, and what you want but I'm willing to pay fair/reasonable amount for one/two in decent condition. I live in Shepparton and work in Wodonga. Please PM me if you have something I might be interested in. Sorry not interested in SU's. Thanks

Euroa-Merton rd for us country lads, Tolmie-Whitfield rd is great, only been there in the work van, have always meant to go back, it would easily rival the great ocean rd for bends, without the traffic. The black spur heading out of Melbourne is another, where do you stop?

Well, my woes appear to be over, After 5 weeks sitting in a workshop while I was on my honneymoon I got back and it still wasn't fixed! I was told it was a computer which I went and bought, wasn't that. Then I was told it was definitely injectors, I refused to pay $800 for a reco set so I took it back and replaced the engine loom myself. Cost me $50 and the problem is %100 fixed. The timing was crazy, it would be massively advanced and then back to normal and even look like it was sending 2 signals at once. We also got rid of some wiring that was left over from a LPG conversion that I took out when I first got the car. This did not fix the problem itself but strangely made the problem not as bad?! I'm just glad it is fixed. Wish I knew exactly which wire or plug was the problem though.

Hi guys I've got two quick points to throw in. 1. From what I understand despite what the government wants us to believe most accidents could be attributed to alcohol, driver loss of concentration or fatigue. Hi-po cars have no relevance to these causes. In accidents where speed may have been a factor, hi-po cars are still not relevant. P platers have been wiping themselves out for as long as they've had cars. Ten-twenty years ago there wouldn't be many cars that could would keep up with our hi-po cars of today yet they still managed to get into trouble. I must admit I nearly wiped myself out countless times as a P-plater in my first car a GK sigma (no jokes please). There is not many people you will talk to who are over 25 that won't admit that they were wilder when they were 18 and that they now drive much more senibly now, so without trying to stereotype everyone lets admit that either due to age or lack of experience p-platers are at higher risk. 2. Why would you have a special hi-po licence when most hi-po cars (factory or with sensible and well thought out mods) will out brake, out corner and be more stable and balanced thru corners than the little shopping trolley buzz box you drive to get your normal licence in? If you are driving sensibly and within the law these hi-po cars technically will be safer so you must be implying that the plan is to driver them faster. I have thought for a while now penalties such as fines should be replaced with having to re sit your licence or doing community service in trauma sections in hospitals or attending advanced driver training exercises at least partly covered by your own wallet. Turn the money making legislation we have now into educating drivers properly. And keep the racing on the track, most people don't realise how cheap it can be to get into racing. You don't need to have all the good gear, and there are clubs everywhere if you know how to find them.

This would be a good round to go to as it has been organised at short notice due to the cancellation of the super truck round, so numbers will probably be low. I would have said closer to 30 cars on the track at once. In the mail out I got it looks like there will be sessions for bikes as well. Will probably be there but the car might be staying at home due to lack of webber jets.

Hey guys, I'm having a very similar problem except mine doesn't completely stop, it misses like a b#@%ch when warm. It will occasionally stop under high vacume when pulling up to lights or in driveway etc. Have ruled out plugs, leads, injectors, not using water. I've spent so much time on the thing in the last few months I just can't be shagged with trying to find what's wrong.